Serpent 705
#2131
#2132
Last Shot
#2133
ok.. when did u find out about this engine cuz the info has been out for months now... lol.. not anything new to us
#2134
Engine
I forgot, you know everything months ahead of everyone else, the question is, do they intend to make a .12 ?????
I would assume some info should be out soon !!!!
I would assume some info should be out soon !!!!
#2135
well...my 705 have an RB X.12 3port in it and it scream!!! I did a small work in the carb...by open up the intake a litle more like 1/4 to 1/2 of 1mm aproximately...then I open up the mid range for more fule flown...and wow!! the motor was fast!! I was very happy with the results! and the motor run about 210 to 235 degrees!! the car run good 6min on a full tanks!
I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.
PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.
PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
#2136
Tech Addict
Upright spacers - again
Initial D,
A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
#2137
I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
#2138
also, if that wide belt is an option, then wat does it do? and how is it for u??
#2139
Originally posted by supra528
btw, that belt in the pic, is that an option belt cuz it looks reallly wide..
btw, that belt in the pic, is that an option belt cuz it looks reallly wide..
If you need a wider belt, you can use the 6361 belt meant for the front of the Vector / Veteq / 950 car. It's 6 mm wide. I recommend that you change the stock 4 mm belt when it is busted (if you bust it). Thinner belts provide less drag. The rear belt hardly gets stripped. The side and the mostly the front gets stripped.
#2140
Originally posted by supra528
also, if that wide belt is an option, then wat does it do? and how is it for u??
also, if that wide belt is an option, then wat does it do? and how is it for u??
More reliability? But I actually never saw a need to change the stock 4 mm rear belt. Change it only when you see the need. The wider the belt, the more drag it gives the car...
#2141
ok.. another question... boy.. do they keep coming...lol... anyways, i just finised putting on the rear diff and putting on that top part... now.. the rear belt is looser than the front... is this ok??
#2142
Originally posted by modellor
I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
I would reckon you are getting too much chassis roll from not using the rear anti-roll bar. I run about +4 droop myself and never have seen this problem yet.
#2143
Re: Upright spacers - again
Originally posted by BSYDOR
Initial D,
A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
Initial D,
A buddy of mine was watching my car go through the infield section at my local track and noticed that the inside rear tire was lifting off the asphalt. Do you believe that is due to not enough droop in the rear of the car-( because I don't have a spacer in there), which then tends to loose traction in the rear too? I am going to check my upper a-arm on the "binding" issue. I am currently using + 4 droop.
Try the front sway bar. If you're lacking steering, set the front sway bar to the softest setting. If you're still lacking front traction, use a softer tire compound or perhaps the 40 shore Nitro Shoes
#2144
Originally posted by superk
well...my 705 have an RB X.12 3port in it and it scream!!! I did a small work in the carb...by open up the intake a litle more like 1/4 to 1/2 of 1mm aproximately...then I open up the mid range for more fule flown...and wow!! the motor was fast!! I was very happy with the results! and the motor run about 210 to 235 degrees!! the car run good 6min on a full tanks!
well...my 705 have an RB X.12 3port in it and it scream!!! I did a small work in the carb...by open up the intake a litle more like 1/4 to 1/2 of 1mm aproximately...then I open up the mid range for more fule flown...and wow!! the motor was fast!! I was very happy with the results! and the motor run about 210 to 235 degrees!! the car run good 6min on a full tanks!
I thought that the NovaMax egnine that I saw had a larger diameter needle on the mid speed in the carb for bigger flow. I may be wrong.
Originally posted by superk
I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.
PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
I also..just bought another 705 w the serio out law...I hope to see a good result with my next car.
PS> Man..those 705 parts is kind an expensive!! LOL.. have to buy a 2nd car for parts!
Yes, sometimes getting a second kit for spares may be a good idea. If you look at the economics of it, the overall price of the kit (even brand new and not 2nd hand) will always turn out cheaper than the separate parts combined.
Best is for parts that you will not need as spares like the 2 speed gearbox and ball diff, you can sell them off separately. You may want to have a spare Centax II clutch if you have a spare engine. It's always nice to have your spare engine already fitted with the Centax II clutch. Just pop the engine with clutch in the car and go. People around the pit may think you're somekind of sponsored driver of some sort
Same as for shocks... Having a complete spare set will enable you to build one specifically for different types of tracks. Just swap the shocks and you're good to go
#2145
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Re: Re: Pixi Black
Originally posted by nizee
apmk,
There is not much info u can find on the pixy except on Trinity website. And don't bother to ask the tech guy there on this engine problems, did that, basically telling u to do the factory needle setting. I bought it from Ebay from an RC store name FlexT RC, pretty decent price.
Honestly that time, i almost getting rid of the Pixy because of so much hassle i'm facing and putting back my Mod MR12 in there, and in the end i sold my MR-12 and the Pixy stay.
Drop me a PM if u already got the Pixy for some tips.
apmk,
There is not much info u can find on the pixy except on Trinity website. And don't bother to ask the tech guy there on this engine problems, did that, basically telling u to do the factory needle setting. I bought it from Ebay from an RC store name FlexT RC, pretty decent price.
Honestly that time, i almost getting rid of the Pixy because of so much hassle i'm facing and putting back my Mod MR12 in there, and in the end i sold my MR-12 and the Pixy stay.
Drop me a PM if u already got the Pixy for some tips.