InitialD

I think Paul from Puerto Rico (paulfitipauldi) used them before. Part number is 808347 and it comes in 8 pieces. It is very light but you may find that the stock steel ones are harder for durability.

Anyway, note that there is the shortened aluminum pivot balls meant for the new FC steering blocks. Part number is 801219. They come in 4 pieces. Do not confuse this with the other aluminum pivot balls.

Paul mistakenly bought the 808347 instead of the 801219 to be used with the new FC steering blocks.

InitialD

I may be mistaken but I don't think Hudy has a 1.5 mm ball hex... I only have the 3 mm ball hex and I find them useful when I take out the shocks from the lower arms.

2 mm ball hex could probably be useful when you mount the rear shocks to the shock tower. By the way I mount them (I don't mount my shocks on shock towers anymore), I do not see a need for the 2 mm ball hex.

2.5 mm ball hex would be usefull to access the cap screws that hold the engine to the engine mount. Usually the engine heatsink gets in the way but then again, I seldom take it out. When the engine needs to go off the engine mounts, that is when I take the heatsink out too and you can access the 2.5 mm cap screws directly. I only access the screws at the bottom of the chassis if I need to take the engine out.

In case nobody knows, the 7 mm socket wrench is actually for the Serpent wheelnuts.

InitialD

If you mean the ball ends of the shock ball joints that goes into the lower arms, then it's 3 mm. I think it's the same with all other Serpent ball ends.

InitialD

I guessed as much... Your problem sounded very familiar. Let us know how it turns out.

modellor

You are quite right. Hudy do have a 1.5mm hex driver but it doesnt have the ball end. 1.5mm is just to fine already to grind a ball into the end of it.

Accord

I've got the Trinity hex set in metric and standard, installing engines are hell because they don't have ball ends .

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

InitialD & modellor,
I believe that Nizee was referring to the Integy hex wrenches.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone know if someone will come out with a 4mm chassis for the 705!?!?

My front nose of my chassis is silently bent up-wards.....
I loved my Z-Speed 4mm chassis on my Impulse/Pro!!

nizee

Ok, let me get it clear, first of all, i didn't even mention those numbers are from Hudy. I was merely telling the kid what size needed for buiding the kit. If i am still in school, i can't afford the Hudy tools, by giving the size, he or she is free to get what other tools is available at his or her hobby shop or maybe something that within his or her budget. Like the duratrax, integy, that cost half the price of Hudy.

Not that i have against Hudy, infact all my tools are Hudy, with a customzie metal case for all hudy.

Yes Hudy doesn't have any 1.5mm ball Hex, but if u really need that 1.5mm ball hex, i'm using the one from Ofna.

nizee

I don't know about you, but if someone use the front stock roll-bar level with stock 2mm screw and need to re-adjust that small piece for tweaking, i find that the 2mm ball hex helps a lot on doing the tweaking. Also when chaging the roll bar blade.

nizee

2 more tools u need which i forgot to mention 4mm and 5mm phillip screw driver u need to built this car. If you don't want to strip the screw.

InitialD

I forgot that one too... I have a generic Phillips (don't know the size) and a Bosch automatic driver equipped with a Phillips tip that I use for the lower chassis parts that have Phillips screws. The Phillips screws that go into the plastic parts do not need to be tighten a lot.

Just that for those screws that I need to tighten and lock hard like the engine mounts and the aluminum radio tray support, I have changed them to allen type screws For me, it is much easier to work on and I have more confidence tightening them without stripping the head. I have another allen set that has holes at the ends of the handles to slot in another allen in to form a "T" wrench. That way I can screw the allen screws in even tighter. I have also changed the engine heatsink screws to allen type.

InitialD

Ummm, you are right on that one. It's a pain in the ass if you need to access the screw that locks the blades... But why do you need to change out the blades? Any secret there?

What I do to solve that problem is I do not overtighten the 2 mm screw that locks the blades. I leave it tight enough that I can still use enough force to turn the blades with a nose plier to whatever angle that I need from below the chassis on the track. I think Ashford Hobbies sell a special tool for you to access and adjust the front sway bars.

InitialD

Ok, got ya Mind showing us that shiny metal case?

InitialD

Don't think so. If I find one, I'll let you know Yes, I'm still having the Wolfpack version 2 chassis on my Impulse PRO. Super stiff and rigid. I vote it the best chassis ever made... Maybe the titanium one from Hardcore Racing is much better

Yup, the stock chassis (at least the old one) that come with the kit is very weak where the first screw locks the front bulkhead at the front. Let me guess that yours bend at that same spot...

If you have the chance to look into the new batch of 705 kits in the shop, you'll notice that the chassis included now has been beefed up with some aluminum around the once weak spot.

I'll post a pic when I go back home of the differences between the "new" and "old" design chassis. I believe all the new 705 chassis (801185) will have this small improvement included.