illmatic94

iTrader: (12)

does anyone want to explain why my clutch isnt setting up right? first off im running an os 18 tz with an xray nt1 clutch. after putting on the fly wheel there is less room to tighten the nut. also the rest of the asseblally just seems tight. without running any shims the clutch bell is almost locked already. its dragging the clutches

Roelof

Is the tip of the cone sticking out of the flywheel? With Xray you must use a short cone.

Geezatec

Post photos if you can. Can not see what you're talkin about.

illmatic94

iTrader: (12)

The cone if you mean the thing before you put he fly wheel on. The answer is no. This come I believe is 5 or 6 mm

illmatic94

iTrader: (12)

I will later. Basically the clutch is to tight when I tighten down the clutch bell. Even with none of those shims. I didn't have this problem with my old novarossi motor

avs

iTrader: (2)

the nt1 manual is finicky about the cone not extending out beyond the flywheel, I guess there is not clearance on a 1/10 nut compared to 1/8 equivalent. so to get a good non-slip grip on the cone you will need a narrow cone, which xray provide as an option.

as for the lack of clutch gap, I think the issue is how far the cone is sticking out behind the flywheel.

assuming the cone is contacting the front bearing, how much gap do you have between the flywheel and engine bearing? this is usually 1mm or so, if it is 4 or 5 mm's then you really want a different cone, or you will need to add small shims to space the thrust bearing out from the engine.

illmatic94

iTrader: (12)

Wait wait, add shims where? And the come sits about 1 mm out the back of the fly wheel. My big issue is that I use a few small spacers behind the main large Bering inside the clutch bell housing so that the whole thing is fully locked and engaged when I tighten the top but. If I have no shims at all ... Then there is no point to a clutch. This worked for quite some time but now, once the engine warns up the clurch is always locked. Although this may be because the clutches are fucked the im issue was present before the clutches got fucked up. Never had this problem on my other engine . I simply took the whole set up shims where they were and put it on the os .18 and there was an issue

blis

The clutch may be expanding and locking up the thrustbearing. If there is no or little endplay then you may need a new thrustbearing.

Roelof

So you have shims located under the inner bearing. If you have no endplay you should take out a shim. When the screw is tightened you must have about 0.2mm max axial endplay. Otherwise when the clutchbell is heated up (and it can become hot!) it will expand and lock itself up.

Why? The huge amount of play you will get w/o shims under the inner bearing will still create the same clutchgap, only the clutchbell will toutch the shoe from time to time with idle and the thrust bearing will damage quickly.

avs

iTrader: (2)

I think you should review the manual. there are shims in 2 places to set 2 clearances.

first set the gap between the shoe and bell to 0.6-0.7mm, this is done with shims between the thrust bearing and its retainer. this is done with no inner bearing so you can get full contact between the shoe and bell.

second set the clearance with all parts assembled, according to hudy this should be 0.05-1.5mm, i tend to use a larger 0.1-.2mm on my car but it isn't an xray.


it sounds like you just need to re-shim, this is normal when you switch a clutch between engines.

Roelof

Here a nice instruction vid how to setup a clutch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo

And indeed the amount of shims on both places may differ between engines and even on the same engine when rebuilding the clutch.

illmatic94

iTrader: (12)

thanks alot im going to order a new clutch assebally this weekend. i pulled this one apart and the 3 clutch shoe is all mangelled

Geezatec

NT1 Centex style clutch. W/o shims installed clutch assembly to check endplay. You don't have room to assemble. Probably the clutch bell hitting the retainer and spring. Preload the spring all the way down, then 2 1/2 turns out. should spin freely.

JamesHealey

iTrader: (1)

You're using the wrong cone on the engine if this is the issue, you need the Xray one.

That's usually the issue, or you can file the one you have down a bit this will work.

avs

iTrader: (2)

rather than a whole new clutch assembly, get a few extra clutch shoes. the clutch shoe will distort if overheated.

before installing a whole new clutch, try getting this one setup properly with a new clutch shoe. some experimentation with this one will make using a new one less problematic.

Also, definitely review the youtube video by Michael Salven that Roelef suggested.