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Old 01-05-2015, 10:51 PM   #1
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Default Best way to break in new motor

I've read many contradicting methods of a "proper" nitro engine break in and really am still left at square one. Idle on a stand for a few tanks...run small figure 8s....etc. please help. Nitro noob
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:37 AM   #2
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Navigate over to the "Onroad Nitro Engine Zone" index and you'll find stickied at the top of the page both "the Engine Tuning Bible" and "the Engine Break in Bible".........Good info!
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:17 AM   #3
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There is no best way, all methodes do almost the same, the best result is anly about how patient you are but with a quick and dirty break in sometimes the best results are made but also with a shorter lifetime.
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el salvador View Post
Navigate over to the "Onroad Nitro Engine Zone" index and you'll find stickied at the top of the page both "the Engine Tuning Bible" and "the Engine Break in Bible".........Good info!
Read everything as pointed to above by El Saalvador... soak it all up and make your own decisions and then apply to the process.

Points to note:
  • Get it up to heat first, 90c... the whole engine, not just the heat sink
  • Run a rich bottom needle (LSN) and give it double the idle. it should be spitting oil and revving high but not enough to engage clutch.
  • Keep it up to temp 80-90, if in the northern hemispere, it's cold outside, so take that into consideration... maybe point the pipe out a garage window.
  • Ensure after each cycle, the piston is placed bottom dead center.
  • To check, once you end a cycle and engine is still at temp, remove plug and check the pinch of the liner and piston...
  • Still unsure, take it to a track and let some experienced guys give you pointers.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:38 AM   #5
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As others have said. Most important thing is to heat cycle the engine and DONT let it run cold. If need be place something over the head to keep it warm - even a wool hand glove can do the job.

Don't let the engine idle on the box tank after tank. That'll ruin the engine fairly quickly.

The best method I've used (without using a break in bench with prop) is the WOT method for 2 tanks very rich so the clutch doesn't engage which should take 2 mins per tank max and then run it on the track rich for 8 tanks. Then slowly lean it off 1/8 of a turn for the next tanks until 95% power. Run it like this for the first race meeting or practice session then you'll be good to go.

In my opinion the ultimate way to run the engine in is on a bench with prop. Then finish it off in the car however this requires more kit and experience in order to do it right.
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:46 AM   #6
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What you've read, probably correct, and probably says the same. I agree on blis's comment. Take and choose. Learn to know from rich to lean conditions, temp cycles. Judging by your screen name 1981, is most likely your age. You were 2yrs old when I started this hobby. You never know when you try the break in procedures. I've used the bible of Ron Paris in Ranchpit in Pomona, Ca since he was a friend in '83. Haven''t change my break-in procedure. Do what you think is correct and would last!! Maybe you'll write your bible. I have!!!

Good luck!! Have fun!!!
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MxRc1981 View Post
I've read many contradicting methods of a "proper" nitro engine break in and really am still left at square one. Idle on a stand for a few tanks...run small figure 8s....etc. please help. Nitro noob
Here is a link to my breakin instructions.

http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....formation_id=7
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Here is a link to my breakin instructions.

http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....formation_id=7
Site looks FRESH!!!

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Old 01-07-2015, 01:23 PM   #9
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I would trust Uriah Murnan on his break-in procedure. My engine ran great with his mods and break-in.
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Old 01-07-2015, 01:56 PM   #10
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If nitro engines were as sensitive to the exact conditions of break-in as many people think, they never would've been a practical power source for toy cars anyway.

For the first tank or two, run it so rich it can barely rev-up and move the vehicle, then gradually (i.e. over the next several tanks of fuel) start tuning for a peak operating temperature around 230-240F. It will still be somewhat rich at this point, and it won't run very fast, but leave it alone until it starts to have trouble warming up -- at that point you know the piston has fully-seated in the cylinder sleeve's pinch zone, and it's no longer generating excess heat from friction. Then you can start tuning for maximum performance.

The really nitty-gritty details are just like waving a Polaroid photo to make the image appear faster -- it doesn't really make any difference, people just enjoy believing it does.

EDIT: Oh, and don't be afraid to turn the fuel mixture needles less than 1/8 of a turn as necessary. That's just a rough guideline. Every engine I own has a sweet-spot that I could only reach by tweaking the needles by barely-perceptible amounts, 1/16-turn or less. And give the engine a couple minutes to respond to any changes you make, because it will take that long for the engine-block temperature to increase or decrease by a meaningful amount. Don't go making changes ten seconds apart, that's how you end up over-leaning the engine and burning it out. (I learned this the hard way -- I broke-in a new engine the way I described above, then I got impatient and started tuning it for maximum performance over the course of about 5 minutes. When I saw the temperature I wanted, I decided to go have fun, and ten minutes later the engine's temperature was 413F. Amazingly it was still running, but needless to say, it never ran properly again.)

Last edited by fyrstormer; 01-07-2015 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:26 PM   #11
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Lots of help. Everyone seems very helpful here. Very much appreciated!!
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