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Old 12-29-2014, 10:43 PM   #16
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I'm thinking man, shoot it to me lol
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:03 AM   #17
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lol!! You still haven't answer my question, did you seal the fuel line from tank to carb and banjo fitting? What air gap? Does it start with one bubble and accumulates more? Air bubble caused by sudden acceleration. That's where bubbles are formed. Air gap too lean(Too wide) on HSN. Speed the servo too quick, Stock TX are common with this. Tuning 98% of fish egg bubbles. It'll dissipate after a few laps. Maybe too lean on HSN, LSN and too high on idle speed.
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:14 AM   #18
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lol!! You still haven't answer my question, did you seal the fuel line from tank to carb and banjo fitting? What air gap? Does it start with one bubble and accumulates more? Air bubble caused by sudden acceleration. That's where bubbles are formed. Air gap too lean(Too wide) on HSN. Speed the servo too quick, Stock TX are common with this. Tuning 98% of fish egg bubbles. It'll dissipate after a few laps. Maybe too lean on HSN, LSN and too high on idle speed.
Ohhh I believe the Idek is set correct, proper air gap, the bubbles usually form after 3 mins or running , when I tuning if the engine just idles for to long. No I have not sealed anything but I replaced everything except the engine .-_-.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:51 AM   #19
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Air gap of throttle is 1mm universal. Can go as .05mm. Tuning the HSN to where engine don't lag, The LSN idle speed drops with in 3sec. If takes longer its running too lean. Once the bubble dissipate you are close to a good tune. Still seal the fuel line and the shortest line as possible. It'll take some time just be patient.
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:15 AM   #20
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Air gap of throttle is 1mm universal. Can go as .05mm. Tuning the HSN to where engine don't lag, The LSN idle speed drops with in 3sec. If takes longer its running too lean. Once the bubble dissipate you are close to a good tune. Still seal the fuel line and the shortest line as possible. It'll take some time just be patient.
Thanks a lot for the reply, how do I seal
the fuel line?
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:54 PM   #21
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Any rubber silicone sealant or weatherstrip sealant found in any Autoparts store or Home depot. Small tube will last you years cuz you use it sparsely.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:58 PM   #22
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you shouldn't need to seal the fuel hose. that is if the fuel hose is new and fits tight on the fittings.

what you could try is engine sealant. it probably has an air leak at the carb neck or backplate. possibly the adjuster screws for the carb too.

http://www.amain.com/lucky-7-rc-air-...FS0Q7AodNCUAKw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NZVlhdYE-Q
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:06 PM   #23
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you shouldn't need to seal the fuel hose. that is if the fuel hose is new and fits tight on the fittings.

what you could try is engine sealant. it probably has an air leak at the carb neck or backplate. possibly the adjuster screws for the carb too.

http://www.amain.com/lucky-7-rc-air-...FS0Q7AodNCUAKw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NZVlhdYE-Q
The back plate of the engine is usually oilly with no known area that it is coming from
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:56 PM   #24
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O'Donnel fuel is known of lotta excessive oil there. Check and retorque the screws. If excessive oil is found tells me that you re running rich. Like bubbles it will dissipate when tuned correctly. Be patient!
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:28 AM   #25
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If you replaced the fueltank and the fuel lines this is the order I would work in:

-Retune the engine, go back to factory settings and retune it for optimal performance. To me it sounds like it is running too lean since it happens after around 3 minutes.
When you start an engine it will heat up for around that time, after that temperature will stabilize.

-If retuning doesn't solve it try a different carburator or replace all the seals in the carburator. I experienced a leakage by a damaged O-ring on the LSN after adjusting it a lot during break-in.

-If the problem still persists try a different exhaust. It could be clogged or damaged. This year I had a brand new exhaust which wasn't manufactured right. When it became hot one of the inner chambers could move around and messed up tuning a lot. Took me a while to figure that one out.

-Last step would be sealing the backplate and the entry for the carburator. Personally I never had to do this to an engine. I believe if this is needed one of the parts is seriously out of spec and should be replaced.

If you keep having problems try making a video of running the car so we can see and hear the engine tune.
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
O'Donnel fuel is known of lotta excessive oil there. Check and retorque the screws. If excessive oil is found tells me that you re running rich. Like bubbles it will dissipate when tuned correctly. Be patient!
Thanks a lot man, I haven't tried tuning it perfect, I just want to keep it running for more than 2 tanks. Engine is still very tight
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:23 AM   #27
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Take your time on break-in period, be patient. Start leaning the HSN till it doesn't bog during throttle, the turn down idle. Last adjustment LSN. One step at a time.

Why seal line?? Nitro(Alchohol) in expands silicone hose, softens at outlet and inlets of tank and carb. may allow air in line. Du-Bro stock wire spring clamp, I like sealant better, easier to pull off. It up to you.
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