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Old 12-24-2014, 10:00 PM   #1
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Default Clutch Gap Adjustment

Interested to hear your thoughts on Clutch gap adjustment?

Some people adjust clutch gap by putting shims behind the thrust bearing (and then shimming behind the main bearing to remove Endplay)

Others do the complete opposite - adjust clutch gap by shimming behind the main bearing (then shimming behind the thrust bearing to remove Endplay).

Is there any difference?
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Old 12-25-2014, 03:13 AM   #2
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The gap is the distance of the clutch shoe to the clutch bell. Where you shim it does not matter. The 1st Serpent Centax had only shims to do it behind the flywheel but for now this is only still done to do a rough setting and the finetuning is done at the thrustbearing.
If the gap is set then the endplay is set wit shims against the flywheel nut.

Another way how it is done but to my idea not that precise is is to fill up the shims against the flywheel nut until the clutch bell comes loose from the shoe, that is the zero-point. Then add the amount of shims minus 0.1mm to set the gap. And set the 0.1mm endplay with shims at the thrustbearing.
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:57 AM   #3
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Can't go wrong with the recommendations in the kit instructions.
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by implusepro View Post
Interested to hear your thoughts on Clutch gap adjustment?

Some people adjust clutch gap by putting shims behind the thrust bearing (and then shimming behind the main bearing to remove Endplay)

Others do the complete opposite - adjust clutch gap by shimming behind the main bearing (then shimming behind the thrust bearing to remove Endplay).

Is there any difference?
Use the first method with feeler gauges and use as few shims as possible
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:32 AM   #5
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Follow the manual. I've found that it DOES matter WHERE you shim the clutch from and I like to shim as much as possible from behind the flywheel keeping the shims above the thrust bearing to a minimum. On a nova you don't need much behind the flywheel but on an os I've found you need a good 0.6-0.9 behind the flywheel before you get close to the ideal 0.6mm clutch gap. By shiming behind the flywheel you should get a snappier clutch than all above the thrust bearing as the shims can act like a spring if they are not absolutely flat. The shims can also warp with heat too. The above is based on the serpent reverse centax but the theory works for all centax style clutches.

The end float is shimed between the end of the clutch nut and the end bell bearing. Just shim until the end bell clears the clutch shoe. No need to measure it.
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:40 AM   #6
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo

Can't go wrong
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Old 12-26-2014, 01:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
Follow the manual. I've found that it DOES matter WHERE you shim the clutch from and I like to shim as much as possible from behind the flywheel keeping the shims above the thrust bearing to a minimum. On a nova you don't need much behind the flywheel but on an os I've found you need a good 0.6-0.9 behind the flywheel before you get close to the ideal 0.6mm clutch gap. By shiming behind the flywheel you should get a snappier clutch than all above the thrust bearing as the shims can act like a spring if they are not absolutely flat. The shims can also warp with heat too. The above is based on the serpent reverse centax but the theory works for all centax style clutches.

The end float is shimed between the end of the clutch nut and the end bell bearing. Just shim until the end bell clears the clutch shoe. No need to measure it.
Dan,

Before I watched Michael Salven's video, (early early days) I'd shim my clutch gap behind the main/bottom bearing of the clutch and make "the gap".
Didnt have the thrust bearing retainer on at all, Id just make a gap minus the end play. eg .4 + .2... It was so difficult to measure with calipers, that when I watched the video I had an ahhhhhh moment and then took a set of spark plug feelers and notched them out. Since buying a Hudy clutch tool, life with clutches improved.

Yes, you are absolutely correct, using too many shims in the rotating parts of the clutch can warp them and turn them into springs. As for shimming behind the flywheel, more often than not Ive had to grind down my collets than have room to shim and its a lot of work to remove the entire clutch, hence why I mentioned use as few shims as possible. A friend of mine would seek custom shims to suit perfect gaps and use just one.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:27 PM   #8
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I tested both types.
I just can say that shimming behind the thrust bearing is by far the best way.
On Capricorn manuals you will find the clutch gap adjustment as mentioned before, to shimming on the flywheel nut.
I did that a long time in this way, but faced an unproperly engagement and clutch shoe became very hot.
I decided to set it in the conventional way, and it works pretty good.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:56 PM   #9
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We have a video on the Capricorn America site and racers have said it has helped them make things easy. Capamericarc.com

https://capamericarc.3dcartstores.com/Tips_ep_43.html

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Old 12-27-2014, 02:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
We have a video on the Capricorn America site and racers have said it has helped them make things easy. Capamericarc.com

https://capamericarc.3dcartstores.com/Tips_ep_43.html

DJ Apolaro
Nice vid but 1 big remark, I did not see him to pull out the crakshaft when putting on the cone.

Other tips:

I made a tool to meassure the spring pre-tension which makes it very easy and more precise:


(with some add-ons it is also possible to meassure endplay)


Zero endplay is possible by adding one of these kind of shims:


It is called a wave spring.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:57 AM   #11
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Personally I use the Xceed digital clutch gap tool now. Brilliant piece of kit and not too expensive either.

The easiest method rarely is the best method in my experience however at our level shimming from the thrust bearing is probably good enough for most of us however I have definitely found a positive difference in clutch performance and consistency during long mains by shimming behind the flywheel.

You've only got to do it once when you build the clutch and actually you learn that a nova needs 0.3 an OS 0.9 and a picco 0.3 on the serpent clutch with a new shoe using the serpent gold collet. Then you adjust for shoe wear under the thrust bearing!
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:26 AM   #12
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Also a good idea to check the gapmeter tool like the one is used in the Capricorn vid. A friend did have a same kind of tool but it was 0.2mm off. It took a while to see what went wrong so we measured all steps and each step was .2mm thicker than the scale said.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:14 PM   #13
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The gap at the thrust bearing is mainly for adjusting with clutch shoe wear?

I have a hard time understanding what the 0.6mm gap recommend by most experts is for?

Let say if the shoe is brand new, the gap is 0.6. What effect will it have if I set it to 0.5mm or 0.7mm?

Thanks for the replies
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW) View Post
The gap at the thrust bearing is mainly for adjusting with clutch shoe wear?

I have a hard time understanding what the 0.6mm gap recommend by most experts is for?

Let say if the shoe is brand new, the gap is 0.6. What effect will it have if I set it to 0.5mm or 0.7mm?

Thanks for the replies
The bigger the gap the longer it takes the shoe to engage the cluthchbell.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:52 PM   #15
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I was under the impression that it's the gap/play at the bell (not at the thrust bearing), that controls how fast the clutch engages?



Quote:
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The bigger the gap the longer it takes the shoe to engage the cluthchbell.
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