Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

I just went to WD40's website and found this out about the 3-IN-1 oil.
3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil is a precision lubricating oil for a variety of uses from lubricating moving parts to preventing rust.
3-IN-ONE Motor Oil is a special blend of high grade oils equivalent to SAE 20. The Standard American Equivalent (SAE) is 17.
Both 3-IN-ONE Multi-purpose and Motor Oil are non-detergent oils and neither of them contain silicone.

Does that sound right to be able to use for After Run Oil and contains Petroleum Distallates?

Cheers

Taylor-Racing

I think we're really dealng with two issues.
One is that methanol is hygroscopic - it absorbes water.
Two is that nitric acid is a by product of our fuel's combustion.

This, to me, means it's probably a good idea to coat the engine internals with a little oil to prevent corrosion.
I've used ATF, 3 in 1 oil, Two Stroke oil, baby oil.
. . . practically any bleedin' oil will do it, really.

BundyMan

Is it safe to use Marvel Mystery Oil with JP FX engines? I have heard it may cause the red putty on the crank to dislodge?

Thanks

TRAJ

i was using Trinity or Novarossi after run oil (cant remember which) on my Murnan NS3 and surly enough the putty was destroyed by it

i had red bits coming out of the exhaust and when i removed the engine head it was everwhere

so i dont know what to use for my new engine im scared it will happen again!

Chase

This topics sounds a lot more complicated than it needs to be.

After putting after-run oil in the engine, how do you get it out before you run it again?

Also, what is the best after-run oil? I don't want something that breaks up the putty...

Thanks,
Chase

bbntc3

I've always stayed away from mod engines that use anything for filler in the crank. I found out years ago with real race car engines that using alky or nitro, no kinda puddy will last for long before the alky and nitro breaks it down.
If you look at Richie and TopGuns cranks, theres other ways to puddle or flow fuel with out fillers in the crank.
As for removing the afterrun I sometimes remove plug and bump the engine of the box a coulple times if I have use alot of oil, but... most times I just start it up and burn it out.

asw7576

Some people get similar problem, perhaps marvel mystery oil contains petrolium oil which is not friendly to the red putty.
Change to other brand such as tornado after run oil.

Lately I pour nitro fuel (pour it from rear backplate and close the carb with thumb) to wash out thick yellow stuff inside the engine. After 2 washes the internal engine is squeeky clean. I put after run oil after that.

wayne

hello, all this talk has got me a little worried firstly, my engine isnt no super-expensive rocket (ae .15) but hell if I can extend its life then I will extend its life, as for after run oil here's my drill : when I am finished running for the day I will run tank dry and engine will eventually flame out, once I have done this I then remove plug and add 10 drops of pacer after run oil (12.99 au$ for 1 oz, or 30 ml) in the plug hole, I then crank the engine over without the plug a few times and then replace plug. I am a nitro n00b and have been told by more than a few people that after run oil is bad news for carby (O rings in particular) so I dont put it there, I havnt had to rebuild this engine and it seems to be doing the job, if it looks as if I am doing something wrong please let me know and I think that (after reading everybodys methods in this thread) that there is many ways to use after run oil and all of them work

furthermore the price of this stuff is off the scale and I am seriously considering switching to 2 - stroke oil

P.S. when I restart next time I dont do anything to remove after run oil and do witness a ... I suppose you could say "burp" out the exhaust which it only does when it has had after run put in it so I assume its the engine purging it.

just my 2 cents....

asw7576

Some says After Run Oil is actually Automatic Transmission Oil for real cars ?? IF that is true, is this product qualified ?



Here is the quote from Slick50 annual ATF treatment : ( see the word "seal" are mentioned twice ).

As transmission fluid ages the fluid components oxidize, gradually losing the ability to lubricate and protect your transmission as well as it did when the fluid was new. Oxidation and fluid breakdown are the single largest causes of transmission problems. Oxidation occurs when heat breaks down the chemical components of the fluid. This process not only can make the components less active, but often can create compounds like acids and sludge that can be harmful to your transmission. Slick 50® Automatic Transmission Treatment replenishes your ATF with vital chemical compounds to help prevent wear, oxidation and seal deterioration.

Helps protect transmission life

Helps prevent seal leaks

Helps curb corrosion, rust and sludge buildup

TRAJ

Email from JP

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Hi Daniel,
Thank you to use JP Racing engines.
About After Run oil, We have JP Racing After Run oil. If you have no possibility to find this Oil, it's possible to use an other one but in small quantity inside the engine. Too much oil damage the the putty on the crank.

Have fun with JP engines.

Best regards,

JP RACING

asw7576

Would it hurt the red putty after large quantity of JP ARO ?

TRAJ

i will send him another email

asw7576

Thx, Traj....

I've been using Tornado brand ARO, and I really put quite a lot of ARO. The red putty inside crankshaft JP FX 5 and 3 still okay not yet dislodge (knock wood). It has been one month now.

I'll let everyone to know first if it missing or dislodge (.... arrgghh...... knock wood).

TRAJ

Yep knock on wood!

It happened to my murnan NS3 i think i used Trinity ARO.

Maybe you should take the back plate of your fx and let the excess ARO drip out, thats really the only thing you can do.

It should be fine.

TRAJ

email from JP

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Hi Daniel,
Never put to much oil because it's the same trouble if you have oil mixed
with putty.

JP RACING
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Hope that helps