Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road
sts rs12 modified turbo .12 >

sts rs12 modified turbo .12

sts rs12 modified turbo .12

Old 11-23-2002, 08:45 PM
  #136  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puyallup Wa
Posts: 232
Default

All depends on the clutch you use. If you use a Centax, then your measurements will all be off. You really need to put a shim behind the collet. That way you get the proper spacing of the clutch.
Smitty
smitty is offline  
Old 11-23-2002, 08:48 PM
  #137  
asd
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 530
Default

ok, thxs for the quick replies, i dont really remeber if i put the correct size shim between the bearing and the collet, i dont remeber if i even put a shim there!, lol, i tried taking my centax clutch assembly off to figure out wat i did, but the nut that holds the flywheel on wouldnt come off, lol, so i guess i'll never know!
asd is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 03:20 PM
  #138  
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
 
BOLISARIO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: S. Corona
Posts: 1,762
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Well I mounted the engine on my NTC3 and did 1 tank at idle and 3 tanks rich(temp between 112-116F). So far, so good. 30% with McCoy #9 plug. Only problem is the ball mount on the slide carb where the throttle linkage connects to is slightly smaller than normal. When the ball cup attaches to it, it easily can be disconnected. I know my ball cup is not too worn because my RB and Sirio linkages are nice and snug. i had to use my Sirio ball mount on the STS engine.

By the way, on my Kawahara Centax, I didn't put a shim behind my collet. i had better clearance with a Sirio collet than with the AE collet. I might switch back though and shim it.
BOLISARIO is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 04:18 PM
  #139  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 37
Default

hey i just got 1 of these today it looks great but im not gonna be able to run it until late spring oh well it looks great i can sit all day and drool.....
tagi is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 04:47 PM
  #140  
Tech Elite
 
kevink2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Glendale, Calif.
Posts: 2,154
Default

Originally posted by BOLISARIO
Well I mounted the engine on my NTC3 and did 1 tank at idle and 3 tanks rich(temp between 112-116F). So far, so good. 30% with McCoy #9 plug. Only problem is the ball mount on the slide carb where the throttle linkage connects to is slightly smaller than normal. When the ball cup attaches to it, it easily can be disconnected. I know my ball cup is not too worn because my RB and Sirio linkages are nice and snug. i had to use my Sirio ball mount on the STS engine.

By the way, on my Kawahara Centax, I didn't put a shim behind my collet. i had better clearance with a Sirio collet than with the AE collet. I might switch back though and shim it.
Yeah I noticed the size difference also...

Dino, did you get my personal message to you??
kevink2 is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 05:16 PM
  #141  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 2,897
Default

Whats a good turbo plug for a .12 engine with turbo? I'll be using 30% nitro. Thanks.
TambokGT is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 05:38 PM
  #142  
asd
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 530
Default

yo tagi, so u got it? kewl
did u install it in ur v one s yet????
asd is offline  
Old 11-24-2002, 11:32 PM
  #143  
Tech Master
 
theRED5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Athens,GA
Posts: 1,022
Default

Do you wrap your Rx in a balloon? if so, take a little square of the rubber balloon and capture it between the cup and ball....it won't come off any more. Try to get 2 layers thick.
theRED5 is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 07:22 AM
  #144  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 37
Default

i didnt install i need a special engine mount im sure pinnacle will know and i dont want to take it outta the bag since dust and other crap will get in the carb exhaust etc etc.... i have a question
It says that before installation into a cae please remove back plate of the engine and clean the machining swart etc. from within the engine using fresh fuel.... well im not sure wat they mean by machining swart and "etc." wat do they mean by etc? and wat is a machinig swart? is it the after run or watever they put in it? do i have to clean the pist/sleeve or somtin? i wish they had diagrams
tagi is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 08:35 AM
  #145  
Tech Master
 
patelladragger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,638
Default

Originally posted by TambokGT
Whats a good turbo plug for a .12 engine with turbo? I'll be using 30% nitro. Thanks.
depends on the weather which I'm sure you know but 6's are good all-around. 7's for hotter, 5's for really cold. On 30% though I've ran the same 6 plug for ages though in an RB since June.
patelladragger is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:35 AM
  #146  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 2,897
Default

Originally posted by patelladragger
depends on the weather which I'm sure you know but 6's are good all-around. 7's for hotter, 5's for really cold. On 30% though I've ran the same 6 plug for ages though in an RB since June.
Well......to tell you honestly this is my first .12 size turbo ( I usually buy non-turbos)....I just want to know if the turbo plugs used in .21 engines are the same as the .12 size ones.
TambokGT is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 10:37 AM
  #147  
Tech Master
 
patelladragger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,638
Default

well I actually should be asking you what are the turbo plugs used mostly in .21's

I just started in 1/8th, using a 6 now but that's just the first plug I've tried - what are you running in your 21's on 30%?
patelladragger is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 12:12 PM
  #148  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 2,897
Default

cold #7
TambokGT is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 12:53 PM
  #149  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puyallup Wa
Posts: 232
Default

STS wants you to completely dis-assemble the engine, and CLEAN the goop off the parts. I assume this stuff is for rust control, and it is always a possability to have machining flakes inside the engine, even your best makers have this problem.
Just clean it with the fuel you use... piston, sleeve, crank the whole nine yards. Put it back together and break it in.
This just shows you how STS really cares about the end user!
Smitty
smitty is offline  
Old 11-25-2002, 01:05 PM
  #150  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 37
Default

wat do i use to rub or clean the stuff paper towel? or like a normal towel or toilet paper?
tagi is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.