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Old 12-30-2014, 02:40 AM   #226
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other than the pf's body? anyone tried blitz's? price wise, it is economy.
i used the 1/8 on my mrx5wc, blitz is giving no worse performance than pf's.
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:16 AM   #227
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Haven't tried blitz yet, but the src spark works pretty good
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:42 AM   #228
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my local rc stores don't carry it. but i will certainly give it a try.
blitz surprised me that pf is not a must. price wise is at least 35% less.
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:43 AM   #229
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
Hello All, has anyone tried 40,000 rear diff oil and what did you find? On what track conditions?

Thanks
m.Ellis
For the rear diff I tried 40k, 60k, and 80k.

I run on a medium traction track without any surface treatment or additive.
With 40k the car changed direction a bit faster in the technical part but was too nervous in the fast part. Also acceleration and corner speed was a bit less.
With 80k the car was nice and stable and had good acceleration and corner speed.
If traction is high enough I think 80K is a good setting to start with.
Next day traction was a bit less so I went back to 60k. With 80k the rear was sliding too much causing a lot of tire wear.
In 2015 I want to try 80k again but with more flex at the rear of the car.
The rear end of the MTX-6 is extremely stiff compared to other cars because of all the carbon braces.

For the front I tried 300k, 500k and 1000k.

With 300k I missed on throttle steering in slow and fast corners.
With 1000k the car was really good in the fast sweeper and during braking, but change of direction was too slow and not enough steering on corner entry.
500k gave the best balance and gave the best laptimes.

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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
other than the pf's body? anyone tried blitz's? price wise, it is economy.
i used the 1/8 on my mrx5wc, blitz is giving no worse performance than pf's.
The only Blitz body I liked is the RS4. It still gives good laptimes and it is worth trying on a big open track since it has the lowest drag of all body's thus boosting top end speed and reducing fuel consumption.
But this year I didn't use it anymore because on all the tracks I was faster with the SRS.
The other good alternative is the SRC Spark. It rotates very nicely and is defiantly worth trying if you are running on a track with a lot of hairpin corners.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:38 AM   #230
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hi . need help install clutch set in Reds engine M3WCS on mugen MTX6 ? seem like crankshaft diameter 6mm smaller that OS engine . do I need use special engine nut ? the original engine nut is bigger and loose . the original engine nut part H0704 . I am really appreciate for your help . thank you
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:33 PM   #231
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As long as you have the original collar for your reds motor and not the brass collar that comes with the kit you will be ok. Everything should bolt up on your motor but the collar. Picco base motors use a smaller black collar
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:13 PM   #232
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hi . need help install clutch set in Reds engine M3WCS on mugen MTX6 ? seem like crankshaft diameter 6mm smaller that OS engine . do I need use special engine nut ? the original engine nut is bigger and loose . the original engine nut part H0704 . I am really appreciate for your help . thank you
No need for nut but i had to cut the cone a little on the top side otherwise thenut wont be tight
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:23 AM   #233
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Thumbs up New kit variation for mtx 6

I hear on the gape vine the newer kits will have a few changes.
Like different diff oils.
Springs
Sway bars.

Has anyone got any news on this?
What are all the changes?
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:36 PM   #234
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Default Silicon !!!!

Ok racers and mechanics I have a question.
Is there any thing that with help clean silicon of dir gears etc.
The only way I have found to clean them is to use compressed air and blast it off, but this Million weight stuf is like blue tack...
Maybe I need to boil it off them ..
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Old 01-20-2015, 05:02 PM   #235
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Ok racers and mechanics I have a question.
Is there any thing that with help clean silicon of dir gears etc.
The only way I have found to clean them is to use compressed air and blast it off, but this Million weight stuf is like blue tack...
Maybe I need to boil it off them ..
Soak your diff parts in mineral spirits for about 1 hour.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:17 PM   #236
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Ultra sonic cleaner with wax and grease remover does the trick.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:34 PM   #237
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Kerosene does the trick really good, but I cant stand the smell...
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:12 PM   #238
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Talking Damper rebound?

Hi Meguners,
Setting up shock is the next topic.
What are the thoughts on rebound?
Some, none, any, how much?
If you bleed then then how to do it.
I watched a interesting YouTube clip by the Capricorn usa guy. On how he's sets up his shocks.
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:12 PM   #239
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I always shoot for "DEAD" shocks. 0-rebound and 0-suction.
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Old 02-04-2015, 02:09 PM   #240
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I always shoot for "DEAD" shocks. 0-rebound and 0-suction.
Thanks buddy,
Anyone else have an opinion?
I liked the idea of 0 but have never tried it, I've alway but built them with rebound..
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