2Likesnitro TC3 - looking for all advice
04-25-2016, 05:52 PM
#211
Another thing I wanted to point out is that the Ntc3 2 shoe clutch with the Dynotech lightweight flywheel/aluminum bell will be even lighter than my current 29gram three shoe clutch. It will probably weigh somewhere around 24grams vs the 30.5gram to 34.6gram Capricorn C02 clutches.... Again, advantage Ntc3.2 BERT edition... Cheers.....
05-01-2016, 01:11 PM
#212
My Ntc3 weighed 1751grams right after I built it(no mods).... Now it is down to 1654grams with more mods possible(50+grams to lose)...
05-08-2016, 07:57 PM
#213
Ran my Nitro TC3 again on Friday night. I had hoped for an improvement after changing the front springs (softer) in search for some more steering. Didn't really notice an improvement and spend most of the night adjusting two speed again after resetting it back to stock.
Mailman is off my Christmas card list too after not delivering any of new goodies in time.
Mailman is off my Christmas card list too after not delivering any of new goodies in time.
05-08-2016, 09:53 PM
#214
Believe it or not, your front 30lbs purple springs are perfect already. Your rear springs are too soft: you need rear purple(30lbs) or 35lbs yellow springs with no preload and 40wt oil.... The key here is to make the rear have less traction so the car can rotate better. I tried soft rears in my Ntc3 with no luck, until I saw a nt1 running 33lbs springs in the rear, so I tried the 35lbs yellow springs in the rear of my Ntc3 and it was a good improvement but still leaning on the corners too much, bottoming out(scraping my chassis). So I added both types of swaybars(blade+wire) in the front & the rear of the Ntc3, and never leaned in a corner again(no more scrapping) with faster laptimes... That made me a believer in the double swaybar system, and I ran the stiffest blade setting in the front with the softest setting in the rear... I also had much better results with matrix carbon 37shore tires front and rear : the offset of these tires was better than any other tire for the ntc3, and allowed my bodies to be lowered all the way down to the top of the shocktowers without any rubbing whatsoever while lowering the CG considerably...... I threw out most of the other tire brands I had, and only kept the matrix for racing and hot race for practice: all tires cut under 61mm.....Cheers....
05-09-2016, 04:13 PM
#215
Believe it or not, your front 30lbs purple springs are perfect already. Your rear springs are too soft: you need rear purple(30lbs) or 35lbs yellow springs with no preload and 40wt oil.... The key here is to make the rear have less traction so the car can rotate better. I tried soft rears in my Ntc3 with no luck, until I saw a nt1 running 33lbs springs in the rear, so I tried the 35lbs yellow springs in the rear of my Ntc3 and it was a good improvement but still leaning on the corners too much, bottoming out(scraping my chassis). So I added both types of swaybars(blade+wire) in the front & the rear of the Ntc3, and never leaned in a corner again(no more scrapping) with faster laptimes... That made me a believer in the double swaybar system, and I ran the stiffest blade setting in the front with the softest setting in the rear... I also had much better results with matrix carbon 37shore tires front and rear : the offset of these tires was better than any other tire for the ntc3, and allowed my bodies to be lowered all the way down to the top of the shocktowers without any rubbing whatsoever while lowering the CG considerably...... I threw out most of the other tire brands I had, and only kept the matrix for racing and hot race for practice: all tires cut under 61mm.....Cheers....
Thanks will get another set of springs. I am still wanting to try a different setting on the rear camber links to see what difference this makes.
05-09-2016, 08:50 PM
#216
The rear camber link positions are for fine tuning. If your rear is too planted, you will not be able to turn properly or fast enough to keep up with the competition... I use to have my rear diff loose to plant the rear, but now I lock it up with ofna diff lock lube on both sides of the plate to gain some on power steering, and now it turns on a dime. The steel outdrives also overheated the lube a bit, causing the diff to loosen up a bit. Hopefully the aluminum outdrives will dissipate more of that heat, and give better consistency... I will be upgrading to all aluminum parts this Thursday. I just finished building my pro10 CRC genx10 2.5t boosted today, and it was a pain to build...
05-10-2016, 03:58 AM
#217
Tech Master
What made it so hard to build??
05-10-2016, 02:13 PM
#218
I broke too many of those 2-56 screws, ballstuds, etc.... I had to redrill and fit 4-40 hardware... Also the rear pod bearings were being pinched too much, and the carbon shaft was a bit too thick to fit through them. I won't even mention the front delrin balls and the incomplete instructions.... Anyway the finished product is marvelous though.... I just wished blitz would make a 0.5mm wgt body(60gram) for it instead of the Sophia GT (102gram) I got right now... My CRC wgt weighs 839grams with the Sophia body and no battery. That's 1148 grams with my TP5300 mah lipo battery. Pro10 minimum weight is 1100grams..... A superlightweight body would put me right at the minimum weight....
05-12-2016, 02:53 PM
#219
Finally built with all the aluminum upgrades, and my Ntc3 is down to 1659grams(not 1654 because of the diff lock lube, etc) from 1693grams..... Not bad at all, and ready for war.... Testing should soon follow... Cheers.....
05-16-2016, 08:39 PM
#221
I think orrcar has it and toyrcplanet.com claims they have 5000 of them in stock, but these might be oversees.....No substitute products known....
05-18-2016, 10:08 PM
#223
Nice carbon pieces...
05-19-2016, 09:34 PM
#225
Hope you ordered the 19tooth pinion... I have not tested my Ntc3 yet, due to my Jeep's engine failure... I got to buy myself a pure electric car: those rod bearings are just too weak, no matter what gas engine you have.... Hopefully I can get an egolf or tesla soon....