nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

This started happening 2 weeks after I ran a 20 minute main without problems, I didn't touch the car in those 2 weeks. I guess I'll be getting a new chassis

lighttravler

I was referring to those guides you download on the site choosing a certain guy setup. With the sheet already filled out.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

http://www.serpent.com/product/804008/setups/
There you go

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I prefer Dominic Greiner and Nacho Lopez setups. This season I'm going to start with Paolo M setup. It all depends if your driving style matches the person setup you are using.


Pass you soon...

MeClown

Hey guys

I'm trying out a new paint design. Going towards a more graphic approach for the April races in HK. Let me know what you think. I'll post the finished product.

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Have you checked your diffs?


Pass you soon...

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Looks great I will be assembling my TQ this weekend!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Don't jump to buying a new chassis! Strip the car down and go through it piece by piece. Put the chassis on a glass plate or setup board to check flatness (top side down). Do the same with the roll bars.

The diffs also need to be checked and probably a rebuild would be advantageous using 19.3gr of oil in each (as per a team driver recommendation).

Rebuild the shocks assuring same pressure in each and same length each. Add the springs and set equal pre-load.

Rebuild the car and setup correctly replacing anything bent in the process. A tweak station is advantageous or use the wheel lifting method however the later is critical on the droop screws being exactly the same left /right.

Then try it on the track and see how you get on.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Enjoy the build. Awesome car to build

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Do you guys know if the Serpent changed the shock bladders to clear ones on recent batch? I just put Yokomo bladders on my 748 and random Chinese ones on Eryx 3.0 and both work good. No more holding the shock body when turning the shock collars. I'm happy

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

If you just cut the collar O-Ring in half and just use half the O-Ring in the collar it releases enough friction to allow the collar to be moved without turning the whole shock body.

MeClown

Hello

Sorry is you listed the part number before. Can you pls list the part number for the upright with the drilled hole for the stiffener . Thank you

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

The drive flange for the new car is #804239. That SHOULD get you the new 748TQ flange with the drilled & tapped hole for a stiffener, I'm just using an old xray T2 one but any decent one would suffice.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Glad it works for you Dan but I don't think I can cut the O ring cleanly. And if you cut it in half, wouldn't it be more like you don't use it? Then every time I touch the springs, it might rotate? Or even during the race due to vibration?
Moreover, cutting the ring still doesn't guarantee that the shock body will not move.
To me a few dollars of investment was definitely worth it and I hope they have made the change. I was just wondering if they have

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I used an exacto knife on mine. I only cut 1/4 out and left 3/4. It relieves just enough friction. It does not have to be cut cleanly. The reason the whole shock body spins is because the shock cap can only be tighten so much before it hits a positive stop lip on the shock body. At this point you do have enough clamp pressure on the top shock mount.