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Old 08-08-2014, 01:48 AM   #166
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Originally Posted by Fliggo View Post
weight on that piece of engineering?
Not yet. i didn't build this car with light weight screws i want to see how much lighter it is in it's standard form. Will post findings soon.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:52 AM   #167
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Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
Nice! Worried about contaminated fuel?...
I'm guessing your commenting on the pressure line to the tank??

I have never ran a filter there and never had an issue.
There are all these theories behind filtering the gas entering the tank and most of all the theory of cooling the gas as it enters the tank. After long long long testing i have not been able to come to a conclusion on differences.
Basically -
Never had full go off or contaminate
Cooling the gas entering the tank we have never seen an advantage.
Les fuel tube or filters/coolers = less weight.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:55 AM   #168
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Looked at the manual and only change I dont really like is the way the rear of the front upper arm mount. From what it looks like, it mounts right to the upperdeck and can easily break in a hard crash. Still loving the car though. Especially the rear flex system.
I don't think the problem with the top arm mount is the crash and break.
I think they have made it harder to remove the top deck. once those screws are removed the little threaded things fall out and are hard to get back in. during a race meet if you loose one your out!!
I look at it for hours. There is no other way to mount the top arm and save weight in that area.
There are many positives to the new design and how they have presented the kit.
lets see how it preforms on track.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:33 AM   #169
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Ok, every time I use blank rims to set ride height, the rear ends up 3mm higher.
I just use the qualifier size which in my case is 58/60 and set it with those and very rarely touch it. What do you set the rear at if the front is set to 1mm on blank rims
With blank rims I set my ride height to .55mm front and 1mm rear. If traction is high I start a little lower maybe .25 and .65 I use automotive feeler gauges for the measurement.


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Old 08-08-2014, 06:46 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by Aza088 View Post
Not yet. i didn't build this car with light weight screws i want to see how much lighter it is in it's standard form. Will post findings soon.
In the neighborhood of 1674 grams. This is with I believe low profile servos ,bias chassis weight and a Li-fe battery.

Pass you soon...
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:21 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by Aza088 View Post
I don't think the problem with the top arm mount is the crash and break.
I think they have made it harder to remove the top deck. once those screws are removed the little threaded things fall out and are hard to get back in. during a race meet if you loose one your out!!
I look at it for hours. There is no other way to mount the top arm and save weight in that area.
There are many positives to the new design and how they have presented the kit.
lets see how it preforms on track.
For those little threaded things, just put thread lock. Without it, I lost so many 6mm screws on the top deck of the 747 before
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:08 AM   #172
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W/ SS shocks, has anybody had any trouble loosening up the adjusting nut when you try to adjust the ride height? When I turn the ride height adjusting nut, whole shock body turns ending up loosening the shock cap. I've been grabbing the shock body with long nose plier when I adjust the height to prevent it but was wondering if there's any solution. My S411 also has SS shocks but it doesn't have that sort of problem. I believe over time, adjusting nut may loosen up but so far not. I applied some bearing oil on the rubber ring inside the nut but didn't help. Obviously I use much thicker shock springs in 747/748 than those in S411. That plays a factor too.

EDIT: I was referring to the adjusting nut, not the upper shock cap(in the first sentence).
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Old 08-08-2014, 12:57 PM   #173
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Take the ring off of the shock body and clean it. You may have some debris stuck in the threads of the shock body and or ring. Maybe the O-ring in the adjustment collar has swollen from the oil. If the threads are damaged on the shock then you have to replace the shock body.


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Old 08-08-2014, 02:55 PM   #174
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Take the ring off of the shock body and clean it. You may have some debris stuck in the threads of the shock body and or ring. Maybe the O-ring in the adjustment collar has swollen from the oil. If the threads are damaged on the shock then you have to replace the shock body.


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They are new shocks. No debris. No swelling. Maybe they are just too tight since they are new ones.
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:57 PM   #175
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Cross threaded???? Start swapping parts between the shocks
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:48 PM   #176
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
They are new shocks. No debris. No swelling. Maybe they are just too tight since they are new ones.
I always put oil on that.
Usually when I rebuild my shocks, I'll bleed the shock and when it gets on the threads I screw it all the way up so oil gets on the adjusting nut for the reason you're speaking of. Then I make a mark, so I know what a full turn is, loosen it 5 full turns and clean whatever oil is left over. It hasn't failed me yet
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:03 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
They are new shocks. No debris. No swelling. Maybe they are just too tight since they are new ones.
Mine did as well new out of the kit. The O rings a a little tight. If you have the ride height adjust nut all the way to the top it tends to grab when new. They will loosen up. Also really tighten top cap. Another tip is to have the spring loose when adjusting the spring tension nut. sometimes the weight of the car on the spring can cause the o ring to grab.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:08 PM   #178
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Originally Posted by Aza088 View Post
I'm guessing your commenting on the pressure line to the tank??

I have never ran a filter there and never had an issue.
There are all these theories behind filtering the gas entering the tank and most of all the theory of cooling the gas as it enters the tank. After long long long testing i have not been able to come to a conclusion on differences.
Basically -
Never had full go off or contaminate
Cooling the gas entering the tank we have never seen an advantage.
Les fuel tube or filters/coolers = less weight.

I think Team C was talking about your numerous fuel filters on your 748...
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:13 AM   #179
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I think Team C was talking about your numerous fuel filters on your 748...
Ah ha. In that case. There is no filter installed. Just 2 empty chambers. This is to bring the serpent tank up to 75cc. This was actually lighter than curling up fuel line.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:51 AM   #180
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Low profile servos only for this kit?
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