chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

Im going to be racing at a parking lot track for 1/10 nitro this summer. Ive been racing a lot just not nitro really. Im looking for a basic setup that i can put on the car and just adjust from there. Its just a std parking lot asphalt track. What camber and toe settings should i run front and back. Also should i use the sway bars or not? I have a 2008 nt1 I'm using with front and rear diff. What oil should i use in the diffs. I have the front spool i can put in if i need it. I know i will need a lot of flex in the car to get traction. Im going to be running GQ tires, 35 front and 37 rear. What should i true the tires down to. Also should i run the 25tooth front side pulley or change it to the 26

thanks

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

bumpy? smooth? low med or high traction sealed heavy or abrasive?

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

its smooth for the most part maybe some bumps. Its sealed and deff low traction. It will be preped though with i think they still use grape soda to spay the track with for some improved grip. Its not to abrasive. Have to use alot of braking

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Where's your track?
I play in Northridge URC raceway. Definitely lots of sliding there. Before talking about setup, you gotta get used to drifting your car well in low traction track. Hopefully yours has better traction. I just let the car slide and cope with it.
Mine's NT1 '12.
F R
camber 2 3.5
toe -1 3.5
Diff DEFAULT
droops 1.5 2
RC low high
springs serpent red all around
track width/wheelbase -default

I had severe snap oversteer out of corner so I lowered the power narrowing carb diameter.
THis all changes depending on your track size. Good luck and have fun.

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

yea its a low traction track its at MRH middleriver hobbies. Its a nice surface that will be preped every weekend. I think they still use grape soda they spray on the track to help give it some grip. I Dont get your TOE settings your saying toe'd in on the front -1 and toe out in the rear 3.5 are you sure not the other way around. I run toe out in the front and toe in on the rear for my electric sedan.

Yea i can cope with sliding not that bad you just have to power and steer threw it.

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

Ok so had the first race. And the car started out with being a pile to drive. It was hard to turn. It was bad on turn in. It would push like crazy. I need more turn in. I tried violet springs in the front and light purple in the rear and took off both front and rear sway bars. I went to -3 camber in the front and -3 camber in the rear and 4 degrees toe in in the rear and 1 degree toe out in the front. It made the car a little better but still pushed.

I was told to use light purple in the front and violet in the rear for springs. And to change the diff lube to 150K cst in the front and 50K cst in the rear.(i have no idea whats in there now, used car). Also to hook up the front blade sway bar back up and hook up the rear sway bar back up.

What you guys think i should do. Will that help. ??

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

toe out the front another half degree back the rear toe in out to 2.5-3 should let it rotate more you could also try adding more castor more should get the car to start to roll more into corner but should push alittle more out (also were the brakes locking up going into turn? if it is skidding it will go straight)

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

As you stated earlier:
Front springs - Light purple ,Rear - violet
Now also:
Front sway bar - not connected
Rear sway bar - 2.0 mm
Roll Center - Front lowest, Rear lowest

follow the previous posts on toe, and diff fluid and your car should be in the ball park for handling.
You will need to refine the setup to get your chassis dialed in.

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

The brakes were not locking up. It would push off power and off brake just coasting.

So go with 150K front diff oil and 50K rear diff oil
light purple frt spings.
violet rear springs
2.5 toe in rear
just use the rear sway bar.
Then the roll center settings?
What about shock oil 50wt

VA_Racer

iTrader: (21)

Whats your ride height? R those springs softer in front or in rear? Go softer in the rear and stiffer in the front. I would use the front sway bar but flatten it out.

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

i currently have softer in front now. But the setup i was told to run by another racer was softer in rear. Also i run 6.5 front and 7 rear for ride height. So put the blade flat then?

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Yes the violet springs recommended for the rear are softer than the light purple.
If you only have SAE wt oil, run 50 wt in front shocks, and 40 or 45 wt in the rear shocks. If all you have is 50 wt oil run 50 wt in both.

I repeat, un-hook the front blade sway bar, so that is is not working. Move both blades out so that they do not connect or touch. Later in the day, you can always drive the car with the front bar reconnected with a flat setting, to see how it drives.
Use the rear wire sway bar, 2.0 mm diameter.

Make sure the chassis ride height is high enough that the chassis does not scrape the track.

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

yea i run 6.5 front and 7 rear for ride height. And i have the rear sway bar it just wasnt connected. I have the springs on order. I have all kinds of shock oil from 25wt to 70wt. I have diff fluid comming in 100kcst 60kcst and 150kcst

VA_Racer

iTrader: (21)

Did you say what your tires were cut to? I may have missed it. Also I see your running gq, soft or hard rims?

chaos2984

iTrader: (26)

i cut the tires to 60 front and 61 rear. Also they are the original orange GQ rims.