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Xray NT1 2014 Specs

Xray NT1 2014 Specs

Old 10-07-2014, 06:43 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by ProE
Do you guys have any tips to free up the drivetrain on this car. Or lighten drivetrain parts. I'm looking for better acceleration out of the corners. (Besides changing gearing)
ProE has most of it covered, although would change over to the rubber belts and would go Capricorn Kevlar pullies over the alloy ones.
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:25 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
ProE has most of it covered, although would change over to the rubber belts and would go Capricorn Kevlar pullies over the alloy ones.

Thanks for the info.

Are the capricorn pullies a perfect fit or do I need to modify something for them to fit?
Do you know if the size of the pulley are exactly the same? should I look at the pulleys for the co2/3 kit?
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:30 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by ProE
Thanks for the info.

Are the capricorn pullies a perfect fit or do I need to modify something for them to fit?
Do you know if the size of the pulley are exactly the same? should I look at the pulleys for the co2/3 kit?
no need to modify anything to put pulleys capricorn, just make sure when you buy them with the same number of teeth.
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Old 10-09-2014, 02:01 AM
  #139  
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ProE:

As Horchata has said they are a direct fit apart from the brake pulley. You will have to stick to the Xray one for that. All the teeth count are the same as Xray. C01,C02 or C03 shouldn't make any difference. Even the Capricorn diffs will fit in the Xray too.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:31 AM
  #140  
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Is there any really noticeable difference when running the monoblock engine mount and the brass motor mount?
I drove my (new to me 13) for the first time this past sunday just to get a feel for it. My last xray was a 2012 and ran a 747 this past season. I have absolutely no bad things to say about the 747, but xray just is a better fit for my driving.
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:44 AM
  #141  
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Default Need some setup help guru's!

I am need of some setup advice...

My brother and I are both running the Xray NT1 2014 at England Park in Brisbane. This last meet in particular the grip was higher and we both had a few issues. The club has recently been sugar coating the track, but it is still quite bumpy. We normally run 37 shore front and rear trued to 60/62mm. We both had some traction roll on two particular corners that have a little more lean on the car.

Setup:

standard 2014 shock oil, pistons and springs. We are running inside hole on the shock tower with no rear sway bar.

Am wondering if we need to add the sway bar now or try a harder shore foam tyre front and rear or drop ride height?

Look forward to your thoughts and feedback.

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:09 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
I am need of some setup advice...

My brother and I are both running the Xray NT1 2014 at England Park in Brisbane. This last meet in particular the grip was higher and we both had a few issues. The club has recently been sugar coating the track, but it is still quite bumpy. We normally run 37 shore front and rear trued to 60/62mm. We both had some traction roll on two particular corners that have a little more lean on the car.

Setup:

standard 2014 shock oil, pistons and springs. We are running inside hole on the shock tower with no rear sway bar.

Am wondering if we need to add the sway bar now or try a harder shore foam tyre front and rear or drop ride height?

Look forward to your thoughts and feedback.

Thanks
Andrew
Hey Andy

If the track is in hight traction condition I would make the car harder. For example, 1 or 2 hole in front (600), 2 in the rear (700). xray pinks all around. I would also suggest to put sway bar in the rear. You can begin with the standard one. Tyre shore hardness front 37/ 40 rear.

Regards
Rob
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:51 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Italboy
Hey Andy

If the track is in hight traction condition I would make the car harder. For example, 1 or 2 hole in front (600), 2 in the rear (700). xray pinks all around. I would also suggest to put sway bar in the rear. You can begin with the standard one. Tyre shore hardness front 37/ 40 rear.

Regards
Rob
Hi Rob

Thank you, I think the new shocks on the 2014 have a 3 hole piston front and rear with a 1.1mm hole. I think you get pistons with 1mm and 1.2mm holes in a 2 hole and 3 hole piston as well. Would you think changing to 2 hole piston in the front and going to thicker rear shock oil would be the go?

Thanks
Andy
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:12 PM
  #144  
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Personally I would start by going to harder tyres and reducing the amount of roll while cornering, starting with stiffer sway bars and raising roll centres. Increasing the damping of the shocks will give you a bunch of other issues given the state of the track at the moment.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:48 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by bigtez
Personally I would start by going to harder tyres and reducing the amount of roll while cornering, starting with stiffer sway bars and raising roll centres. Increasing the damping of the shocks will give you a bunch of other issues given the state of the track at the moment.
Terry,

Thanks, I have tried 37fronts/40rears and balance just wasn't right, so will try some other options. It has only been this last meet that i have had issues and I would say it was from the extra entries in IC meet from the weekend before.

Andrew
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:16 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
I am need of some setup advice...

My brother and I are both running the Xray NT1 2014 at England Park in Brisbane. This last meet in particular the grip was higher and we both had a few issues. The club has recently been sugar coating the track, but it is still quite bumpy. We normally run 37 shore front and rear trued to 60/62mm. We both had some traction roll on two particular corners that have a little more lean on the car.

Setup:

standard 2014 shock oil, pistons and springs. We are running inside hole on the shock tower with no rear sway bar.

Am wondering if we need to add the sway bar now or try a harder shore foam tyre front and rear or drop ride height?

Look forward to your thoughts and feedback.

Thanks
Andrew

I had a traction rolling issue once, I talked to Mike Swagger and he suggested less caster(move upper arms forward). I haven't had anymore traction rolling issues and have been running my fastest times since making the change.

You could also just ca glue the front side walls, quick easy fix that's worked for me in the past...
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott B
I had a traction rolling issue once, I talked to Mike Swagger and he suggested less caster(move upper arms forward). I haven't had anymore traction rolling issues and have been running my fastest times since making the change.

You could also just ca glue the front side walls, quick easy fix that's worked for me in the past...
Scott B:

Thanks, I would have thought the CA glue on the sidewall would have been more to stop chunking the tire?

Andrew
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Old 10-26-2014, 09:03 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Scott B:

Thanks, I would have thought the CA glue on the sidewall would have been more to stop chunking the tire?

Andrew
It does that too...
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Old 10-26-2014, 10:08 PM
  #149  
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Less caster works great, you can also raise the upper front arms, turn down dual rate a few notches wider track width and most importantly, ride height
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Old 10-26-2014, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NITTO550
Less caster works great, you can also raise the upper front arms, turn down dual rate a few notches wider track width and most importantly, ride height
Thank you, I can adjust caster however the top front arms are all the way up already.

I would to perfect the ride height a little better as rear does sit up more then the front for my liking.
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