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Old 06-26-2014, 06:33 AM   #106
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original xray gears were always shit. Use KM gears problem solved (better material), this was a few years ago not sure now im assuming the same :}
Really! !
Xray by far has the best plastics in rc, hands down.
Ran all year last year and not 1 stripped gear.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:39 AM   #107
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Hi

Have anyone had any problems with stripping the 1 gear? I have changed the oneway adapter , use the hudy oneway oil , give it one drop every 30 min. Have stripped around 10 1 gears , both 59 and 60.

Any ideas
Check your pinions, maybe 2 speed shaft has slight bend, even loosen up the mesh. If your stripping gears its from something you would least expect. Its definitely not the plastic.
I switched to serpent this season and will still say xray has the most bulletproof car in racing.
If I were you I'd rebuild and see if it still happens. It could just be a screw that needs a 1/2 turn tighter that you would never think is causing the problem.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:27 PM   #108
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Check your pinions, maybe 2 speed shaft has slight bend, even loosen up the mesh. If your stripping gears its from something you would least expect. Its definitely not the plastic.
I switched to serpent this season and will still say xray has the most bulletproof car in racing.
If I were you I'd rebuild and see if it still happens. It could just be a screw that needs a 1/2 turn tighter that you would never think is causing the problem.
Hi

Thanks all for your ideas why I strip the 1 gear spur.
Along with my team mate we will change the 2 speed shaft. That's the only thing left. Have changed also the bearings on the 2 speed , the clutch and the engine , just to be sure that there were no play. it will be tested next week some time.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:48 PM   #109
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Hi

Thanks all for your ideas why I strip the 1 gear spur.
Along with my team mate we will change the 2 speed shaft. That's the only thing left. Have changed also the bearings on the 2 speed , the clutch and the engine , just to be sure that there were no play. it will be tested next week some time.
Check your one way and make sure to lube it with ball diff silicone grease, i beleive your one way is locking up
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:08 PM   #110
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hello all !

my nt1 2k14 arrived 3 weeks ago and I made a race last Sunday... my first impressions:
- the new smaller 2nd gear disc really gives less variation in the shift gear moment, at the engine break steps I was not feeling the shift point
- I made a comparison between the wc version shocks and '13 & '14 shocks, the lenght of the body is around 2 mm shorter than wc but 2 mm bigger than '13 body
- on saturday, I had to break in the engine but the track conditions was so poor... low grip, dirty track, was so hard to take good laps
- on sunday, I started the heats with low tire shores and took the best lap of class on the last qualify but just the final grid in the 7th position. After some new adjustments, I started the final in the 7th, after the first five minutes, I was in the 1st position with others 3 cars in the same lap in the fight to defend the position (the car was so fast and reliable) I flipped and my engine turned off... coming back, I could finish in the 3rd position.
- details: the final mass of built car is around 1690 grams (low profile servos, nova engine, older amb, life battery)

I really recommend this kit, really useful and the building is so precise.

thatīs all.

Regards
Kaique Lima
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:13 PM   #111
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I forget...

due to the poor track conditions, I went to the final using front block diff and 20k rear diff

shock oil is 800

the clutch spring is the standard with 0.2mm of pinch and 0.5mm of gap

maybe with better track conditions, I could change the diff oil to 50k rear and 300k front.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:20 PM   #112
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Hi guys,

What diff oils are you running front and rear on medium and high traction smooth tracks?
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:43 PM   #113
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Hi guys,
What diff oils are you running front and rear on medium and high traction smooth tracks?
Hudy 150,000cst front & 60,000cst rear is a good start and is how I normally run my car.
80,000 rear 200,000 front is a bit more stable and easier to drive.
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:30 PM   #114
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I am running 200k front and 80k rear with the front carbon brace. Have noticed an improvement with the new shocks compared to my old Pro I ran a few weeks ago.
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:46 AM   #115
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Has anyone tried the composite gears (304930) in the front diff of the nt1? Do they last?
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:06 AM   #116
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Has anyone tried the composite gears (304930) in the front diff of the nt1? Do they last?
Yes, they work great, no sign of wear for some time now...
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:35 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProE View Post
Has anyone tried the composite gears (304930) in the front diff of the nt1? Do they last?
they lasted less than a season for me.

I prefer the predictable replacement requirements of the metal ones.
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:10 AM   #118
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Incase anyone is interested....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13516873
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:22 PM   #119
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someone a 1mm hole drilled in the shock end cap to better get the rebound
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:38 PM   #120
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yes the drilled hole will kill shock rebound
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