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Old 06-01-2014, 11:36 PM   #76
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lol, actually the race is on Youtube, you see the moment when the gearbox rolls straight off.
lol pm me the link or post it here. You just got that thing. I'm surprised, especially from xray. So what now? You gonna give another shaft the same a go or is there something different to try?
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:53 PM   #77
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:O years of racing on my car, and I don't even know how that would happen. that shaft is mangled.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:49 AM   #78
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lol, actually the race is on Youtube, you see the moment when the gearbox rolls straight off.
Hi, a link please
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:55 AM   #79
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Anyone having problems with the spring of the clutch? Its 10mm long and if I adjust it to have 0,7mm preload the spring is fully compressed and all the coils tusch each other. Its like the spring is to long or the tread nut is to short. Advise please. We all use other spring in Denmark
How far do you have the flywheel shimmed away from the engine case?
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:32 AM   #80
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How far do you have the flywheel shimmed away from the engine case?
Zero , no shims. And that has not any influencene on the preload. As the nut with the thread is thight all the way to the flywheel. Meaning that something is not right , the clutch pad , or the fly blocks are to thick. Ot the thread is to short
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:19 PM   #81
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:O years of racing on my car, and I don't even know how that would happen. that shaft is mangled.
I've seen it happen more than 5 times and happened to me once. Still worth running the hollow shaft, car is so much more free
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:09 PM   #82
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Zero , no shims. And that has not any influencene on the preload. As the nut with the thread is thight all the way to the flywheel. Meaning that something is not right , the clutch pad , or the fly blocks are to thick. Ot the thread is to short
You're right sorry I was thinking of something else when I replied to this. Did you end up figuring out what was wrong?
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:52 PM   #83
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You're right sorry I was thinking of something else when I replied to this. Did you end up figuring out what was wrong?
Hi
No , have made same question on xray forum , maybe Mario would answer but Nothing so far. Using a unkown silver spring (Think Its cap) and the clutch is working super.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:21 AM   #84
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Re: Front Roll Centre

Just noticed that the manual says to have front roll centre set at +0.5mm, but the standard setup sheet says -0.5mm. Which one is it?

Ran my NT1 Pro today and really struggling with turn in, has heaps of mid corner steering. Tried front brace, changed caster but that took away on power steering.

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Old 06-09-2014, 03:40 AM   #85
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Re: Front Roll Centre

Just noticed that the manual says to have front roll centre set at +0.5mm, but the standard setup sheet says -0.5mm. Which one is it?

Ran my NT1 Pro today and really struggling with turn in, has heaps of mid corner steering. Tried front brace, changed caster but that took away on power steering.

Thanks
Andrew
That car always had a slight push IMHO.
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:53 PM   #86
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Re: Front Roll Centre

Just noticed that the manual says to have front roll centre set at +0.5mm, but the standard setup sheet says -0.5mm. Which one is it?

Ran my NT1 Pro today and really struggling with turn in, has heaps of mid corner steering. Tried front brace, changed caster but that took away on power steering.

Thanks
Andrew
Do you have the lower front arms foward or back with the spacer ?
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:14 PM   #87
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Do you have the lower front arms foward or back with the spacer ?
Arms arm forward with spacer in behind. Tried different front roll centre today as well as some increased front bar. But biggest improvement was when I swapped out front and rear diffs to ones with thicker oils. Took some steering away but was a lot more planted and turn in was better.
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Old 06-10-2014, 04:03 AM   #88
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Front upper arm pin all the way up, and lower arm with spacer in front of arm 2mm back.
Some, most guys even cut the rear of the rear arms 2mm to move them back. I never cut the rear, but wanted to try.
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Old 06-10-2014, 05:28 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by johnsen-dk View Post
Anyone having problems with the spring of the clutch? Its 10mm long and if I adjust it to have 0,7mm preload the spring is fully compressed and all the coils tusch each other. Its like the spring is to long or the tread nut is to short. Advise please. We all use other spring in Denmark
Hello,

i had this Problem too.
I Think the Reason are old Pictures in the Manual with the wrong mass.
I have shortend the Cone so i come on 9.7mm for the Flywheel Nut.
After that i shimmed the Clutch Gap to 0.6mm an the Endplay to 0.1mm.
Preeload for the Clutch Spring on 0.5mm.
After set ,setup Clutch on Track,

Greetings
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:25 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Arms arm forward with spacer in behind. Tried different front roll centre today as well as some increased front bar. But biggest improvement was when I swapped out front and rear diffs to ones with thicker oils. Took some steering away but was a lot more planted and turn in was better.
Push lower front arms back. This gives you more Ackerman. More turn in
Try this.
Will Definately feel better

.7 front
Bar ground down to .5




Almost everyone runs 150 000 front oil diff and 60 000 rear
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