tbo713

I want to use 13 -43 ring and pinion so who has that option

T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

Nitro House. Look under the X3 Sabre buggy

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Yep!

Buggy Man

iTrader: (45)

I have one for sale. I decided to race just one class. This one has to go. Engine, manifold, pipe, and electronics NOT included. Run for 2 mins to ck set up.
$310 shipped with clear body

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Went to the Byrons race this past weekend for the second outing for the X3. Car was pretty quick on practice day and first qualifier, but some engine issues that caused me to not finish, but was still 14th after the first round. Found a bad bearing in the engine and car was again good, but did not like the really high traction of the track for the last qualifier and mains. BUT, the car turned in better than almost all cars, carried speed just had some over rotation on exit that kept me from pushing the car hard. Qualified 16th, but had a build failure on trying to get rid of the over rotation on corner exit.

Next up is a return trip to LA, and looking forward to seeing the changes from the race early this year. I had a good bench mark as Andy Liu won the LA race and the Byrons race.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

With the shortage of 80% kits and plethora of RTR's, considering a RTR kit as its only about $80 more. I want to make sure the RTR kit is the same exact as the 80% kit—are their any differences?

Has anyone started racing with the RTR and slowly upgraded the servos and motor?

Neesh

iTrader: (128)

wondering the same too

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

Both cars are the same, only with engine, and radio gear and painted black body for the rtr.

C@T

The kit tyre delivered in Europe is a very soft non belted type.

Are those coming with the kit in the US are the same ?

If so, has anybody tryed to use them ?

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

I went ahead and ordered the RTR kit, with Amain having a coupon it was only 75$ more so figured why wait for the 80% with the outdoor season in Oregon being short on time.

Question, with the black body being hard to see for racing—what can be done aside from stickers to make it more visible, does vinyl wrapping work?

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

I received the car tonight, its beautiful! I checked bolts, all look fine, the diffs feel smooth.

The gear mesh is perfect, I bought the clutch shim kit but there isn't really much play in the clutch bell—should it be really tight with no play?

I also looked to put red loctite in the drive shaft cups...looks like OFNA already did—the bolts are tight and I can see red liquid.

Anything else I should check, all bolts feel tight, only put some light blue loctite on the sway bar set screws.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Use 3 or 4 bearing in the front of the clutch bell. PM if you have questions.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Remove the grub screws and reset with red locktite, I've seen them come loose or get lost.

trinitronman

I picked up one of these a few days ago. Like all RTR cars, i disassembled it and put it back together. I found 3 loose screws, none of them critical. I did not disassemble the shocks. Broke it in with 6 full tanks, then proceeded to PLAY!!! Swapped out steering and throttle servos (Hitec 645MG) and threw in a Spektrum 3ch .Temp at the plug after LOOOOONG full throttle runs is in the 223-227 range. I use it to play on the streets, so I think i'm going to leave it where it is. GPS runs in both direction averaging about 60.6MPH.

Videos on Youtube : Jhunt3r29

With a totally stock setup, what clutch bell can i switch to for higher speeds?

Herrsavage

Does this car use the DM-1 clutch bell and spurs? I.e. are there still spares available for my (unsellable..) DM-1? Thanks.

This car looks great, but I've got a brand new 1:7 DM-1 sitting here, and am scared to run it for fear of not being able to source clutch bells basically..