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Old 08-31-2014, 06:36 AM   #421
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That is very much depending on what you are after.

Doing speed runns trying to make a certain distance with max speed will need a gearing making you able to reach top speed a the Point you enter your measurement zone.

If you are only after top speed you can use the whole available straight, what will need a other gearing.

Driving on a track needs a different thinking. When you are loocking for lap time your second gear ratio should allow to reach top speed around 70 % - 80% of the longest straight, traveling the remaining distance to the braking point with more or less constant speed and even release the trigger early to save fuel.

First gear depends on the infield characteristics to have enough accelaration out of the narrow corners. Again dependend on the track used.

My personal experience is that top speed a the breaking point of the main straight does not win races. Itīs only a chance for accidents to happen beeing too late on the brake.

Taking out one tooth on the top will give better laptimes in most cases.
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:59 AM   #422
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I am having issues with my 2 speed getting stuck. Thinking I need a new bearing. What would be a good upgrade here—assuming any 5x8x2.5 metal bearing would work?

Also, what type of grease/lube is ideal for maintenance.
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:01 PM   #423
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I am having issues with my 2 speed getting stuck. Thinking I need a new bearing. What would be a good upgrade here—assuming any 5x8x2.5 metal bearing would work?

Also, what type of grease/lube is ideal for maintenance.
If your trans is getting stuck then you may a few things going on that are bad or are going to go when you replace one new part with old. First check the trans shaft and the flat ares where the bearing rolls on and off, if it is rounding on the corner then you had the shose too far out and they were overlapping so the shoes maybe harmed also, I would also replace the trans maint. kit which has the balls,spings and set screws.

So shaft,shoes and maintenance kit.
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Old 09-13-2014, 05:57 PM   #424
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Anyone know of any upgrades for the electric version that would help or are needed? Building it with the intention of speed runs.is there a motor mount that will accept a bigger motor and pinions of larger size? Also is there a way to run smaller spur gear?
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:07 AM   #425
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Any response to that question above mine?
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:36 PM   #426
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The maximum length for the motor is 104 mm.

Max diameter with unmodified mount is 44 mm.

To install a larger diameter motor can be done by adding a spacer underneath the motor/center diff mount.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:14 PM   #427
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you're describing that for the elettric version? sorry i dont own the kit yet
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:57 PM   #428
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Anyone know of a mount that will fit and allow use of larger pinions?actually might be able to use a 33t with stock mount since dropping 10 teeth or so off spur.don't know for sure yet but will find out.just put a mamba xl2 in today and am gonna run a 2200 castle on 8s=-O until the neu 1521 1y comes.should get some good speed on the one pass before I have to shut it down.got some belted sweeps so should get some good speeds,gotta figure out how to rig up something to reach out to the sides of body.don't like having 3 inches of space mainly cause air and durability in a high speed flip or crash.
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:25 AM   #429
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you're describing that for the elettric version? sorry i dont own the kit yet
Thatīs what you asked for.
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:57 AM   #430
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That is very much depending on what you are after.

Doing speed runns trying to make a certain distance with max speed will need a gearing making you able to reach top speed a the Point you enter your measurement zone.

If you are only after top speed you can use the whole available straight, what will need a other gearing.

Driving on a track needs a different thinking. When you are loocking for lap time your second gear ratio should allow to reach top speed around 70 % - 80% of the longest straight, traveling the remaining distance to the braking point with more or less constant speed and even release the trigger early to save fuel.

First gear depends on the infield characteristics to have enough accelaration out of the narrow corners. Again dependend on the track used.

My personal experience is that top speed a the breaking point of the main straight does not win races. Itīs only a chance for accidents to happen beeing too late on the brake.

Taking out one tooth on the top will give better laptimes in most cases.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:12 AM   #431
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Guys,

I need a little help here.

Ive been using my X3 GT with box stock setup and fluids, just 1 race and 2 practices.

Can you please advice on a good base setup for this chassis ?, our track is very similar in shape to Kissimmee in USA with medium grip.

So far i was thinking on this as a base, what you think ? :

Diffs : 200.000 front / 50.000 rear
Shocks : 1.000 front / 60 rear (more or less like 800)
Toe : Rear stock 2.5 inn, Front 1.5 out

Thanks !
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:38 PM   #432
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys,

I need a little help here.

Ive been using my X3 GT with box stock setup and fluids, just 1 race and 2 practices.

Can you please advice on a good base setup for this chassis ?, our track is very similar in shape to Kissimmee in USA with medium grip.

So far i was thinking on this as a base, what you think ? :

Diffs : 200.000 front / 50.000 rear
Shocks : 1.000 front / 60 rear (more or less like 800)
Toe : Rear stock 2.5 inn, Front 1.5 out

Thanks !
Good starting point for change. You may find 200k in the front causes your car to push everywhere. I tried 100k in the front and dropped back to 70k in the front and 50k in the rear. Feels best to me, but others may like different set ups.
For the shocks that may bit a bit light in the rear. Your car probably has quite a bit of lean to it. To take some of it out you can try running 2k in the front shocks and 1k in the rear. It makes the car pretty stiff for a rough surface, but works well on a smoother set up.
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:17 PM   #433
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Good starting point for change. You may find 200k in the front causes your car to push everywhere. I tried 100k in the front and dropped back to 70k in the front and 50k in the rear. Feels best to me, but others may like different set ups.
For the shocks that may bit a bit light in the rear. Your car probably has quite a bit of lean to it. To take some of it out you can try running 2k in the front shocks and 1k in the rear. It makes the car pretty stiff for a rough surface, but works well on a smoother set up.
I agree with this set up .......
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:24 PM   #434
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Sorry you couldn't make the recent races Mark. Hope you're feeling better. Ended up finishing a comfortable 2nd at the 1/5 international challenge. There was only one heat of GT's at this race. Maybe you'll make it out for one of the winter races. Cancer benefit race in November or TFT in December.

- Craig

Oh, and planning a completely different set up on the car soon. Maybe better, but I always know what to go back to.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:25 PM   #435
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Sorry you couldn't make the recent races Mark. Hope you're feeling better. Ended up finishing a comfortable 2nd at the 1/5 international challenge. There was only one heat of GT's at this race. Maybe you'll make it out for one of the winter races. Cancer benefit race in November or TFT in December.

- Craig

Oh, and planning a completely different set up on the car soon. Maybe better, but I always know what to go back to.
Thanks for the wish on feeling better. It's working slowly ......

We'll see about going out, but may next March ...... really wanted to have you drive my car with all the changes. It worked REALLY WELL at the race in Lincoln, NE It Turns and I can run a step harder in the front ........

Mark
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