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Old 07-15-2005, 05:57 AM   #1
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Default 1/8th Rear camber advice required

Do you guys set rear camber according to how your tyres are wearing? For example at the track my club races on I can run about -2 degs camber at the rear ( Measured @ 0G - standard ride height) and my tyres will wear flat not tapered. I was told that I should run even more camber to promote taper in the tyres as this helps give more steering in mid-corner without becoming loose. Is this true? I was more under the impression that rear toe-in would affect this rather then camber.
To my logic when the tyre wears flat I am achieving maximum contact of the tyre to the road during cornering. Running any additional -tive camber would only be detrimental to grip if it was not for those extemely wide rear tyres we 1/8th racers use. But if running a 1/8th with tapered rear wheels is advantageous, then how much taper is to much? I have noticed that when running with taper rear wheels, tyre wear increases. I assume this is on acceleration out of the corner as the car begins to transfer weight from the side to the rear and the increased camber now works against you.

Also how many of you actually mearsure "Active" Camber. (this is the camber when the car is fully bottomed out. ie suspension is compressed and chassis is touching ground.) If Active camber is more important then 0G camber then would it be advantageous to reduce the 0G camber slightly without losing total active camber. (Shortening upper arm). Having the rear wheels slightly flater on entry and exit to a corner would improve both braking and acceleration without harming mid-corner speed.

My biggest problem is that i am limited in the amount of time I personally have to test set up at our track. Add to that that we race on a temporary carpark circuit with bargeboards and a fair amount of traction compound sprayed on the track, it is impossible to try different setups when the circuit is not preped for racing.

I just need to be pointed in the right direction....
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Old 07-15-2005, 11:43 AM   #2
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The 2 Deg. neg camber you are using, is in the ballpark. When you come off the track, the tires should still be coned. Try increasing camber rise (active camber) by putting a spacer between the upper link and rear hub carrier. Try 3mm.
Max straight line traction would be obtained with 'flat' tires. Due to the lack of differentials, we must run coned tires to get consistant/predictable handling. A coned/tapered tire will be 'scrubbing' at all times(because of the difference in roll-out from the smaller to larger diameter). Un-tapered tire will NOT be scrubbing when going straight. When you turn, the tires fight each other & tend to resist intial turn-in followed by an abrupt loss of side bite.
Coned tires will allow the car to turn-in without hesitation. Other aspects of set-up keep things under control ie. overdrive, shock set-up, sway-bars, etc.
Differentials would allow us to run un-tapered tires and have less tire wear. Would the increased weight, mechanical complexety be worth it? Don't know. I don't know how much extra tire life we could expect.
Most importantly, would it slow down our lap times?
Perhaps, one day, I will find out. Right now my car is rippin' the way it is! Not much incentive to experiment.
Perhaps more info than you wanted.... Try adding the spacer.
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:00 PM   #3
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Adding spacers to the upper control arm will also change the roll center,sometimes beneficial.Coning the rear tire stiffens the sidewall among other benefits,2.5 to 3 degrees of rear camber is pretty much the norm,at ride hieght.Your tires should be coned on your truer 1/2 to 1 degree,that is to get the ultimate,if you're happy with the way your car drives now,don't worry about it.Otherwise your only option is track testing and A/B different setups.While it maybe difficult with limited practice that is the only way to find the setup that works for you.Joe Blows car that is the fastest on the track may be undriveable to you.
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Old 07-15-2005, 01:06 PM   #4
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In addition there is no benefit to a diff in 1/8 scale.With a one way front end you can over run the front wheels with the rear as speeds increase,and rotate the car with power by running the rear spool. Meaning you have far more consistent steering with a spool than a diff in an over powered car.
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Old 07-15-2005, 03:41 PM   #5
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wow.. good info guys.... thanks for be willing to share that knowledge.. I, as I am sure others, do appreciate this very much.
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