going4#1

For those who are using lipos with a regulator, where did you place it on your 960?

I'm using the laydown throttle servo option so the right side of the car is out of space and the left is partially taken up by the receiver. I've temporarily stuck the regulator to the chassis but I'm afraid it may overheat or get damaged. I could stick it underneath the upper deck on the left side but I'd need to drill a retaining hole to hold it in place.

Having never used a regulator before I'm looking for as much info as I can get to find an optimal place to put it. I hear it heats up so sticking close to the fuel tank seems like a real bad idea.

Rob

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Has any one had issues with the quality of the 08 cvds. I found the pin wont go through the front axle without drilling. I ended up using a spare set from the older car. I also wasnt impressed with the ball end/shock end 3mm inserts, they seemed to crossthread & bind up easily. I took the ones from an old car & they were fine. I agree with the post a few pages back saying the kits seemed a bit rushed. In saying that once complete it handles very nicely & has plenty of steering, I am looking forward to getting a bit more track time with the car.

going4#1

I did have some issues with the cvds but I didn't need to drill. There is more than one hole on the wheel axle. It seems some holes were a little small for the pin but others were fine. It's like one was a 'screw' hole and the other a 'pin' hole. I did have to fuss with assembly a bit but the cvds did go together without modification. You do have to take care and ensure the universal joint created is fully flexible. On my first try I did get binding. To fix, I removed the pin, grub screw, threaded the pin through the opposite set of holes and had no problems.



Which part is this? Could you post a picture. Thanks.

Greg M

iTrader: (8)

Any using the Serpent 140000 starter? Whats your thoughts on it?

Roniel_R

iTrader: (4)

I have been using it since it came out and its great,very confortable with the little plug and body clip pouch in the front,its also lighter than the older one,the trick is to set the contact to start when you push down ...

duneland

Mine is between the throttle servo and the upper deck. Been using it for a couple seasons.

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

The balls is what I am refering to, not the set screw. I tried all the holes on the cvds & no joy. I was building it at the track & didnt have much time to muck about, especialy when I had a set of the gold cvds which are bullet proof. I just felt it didnt build as nicely as my previous 960s or 710s or 720s.

sepentNY

Hey guy! I have a problem trying to find a good set up for the 960 I had look already and analyze all the set up at the serpent web, and I don/t understand why at the camber position the measurements from the left are different form the right! at front and back? aren't they sup oust to be the same measurement from left and front, because at the manual It say that make equal adjustment to left and right sides? and also I don't know witch set up to use or if any one knows a descent set up let me know please! thank you. I live in NY and I only run at Floyd.

M7H

To begin with, give your car a symetrical set-up, the standard set-up which came with the kit is a good starting point, only a bit on power understeer.
But if your track has a lot of fast left hand corners and slow right hand corners, you will end with more camber on the right hand side of the car.
If you set-up a car, you start with a basic set-up, and then start adjusting the set-up of the car while "reading" what the car is doing. In the end you might finish with a unsymetrical set-up.....

captian

i will help you the first race at floyd was sunday . i will be there next weekend as well . if you need a hand just send me a pm to let me know who you are so we can meet up

Walt

iTrader: (2)

I'm wondering what the latest thoughts are from the Serpent team regarding clutch setup (I'm running Centax II... not sure what the differences are to Centax III).

I heard last year some were trying the Mugen 'super stiff' spring. Is this still the case or something else is being used now? I see that Orion makes a stiff spring with square cross section material... anyone using that one?

Also, there seems to be many different clutch materials now, including the brown one, the black one and now a red one? I'm having trouble to find what really is the difference between the three (especially the red one).

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

dj apolaro

I think there are 2 main springs being used by serpent drivers. Serpent has the new hard 1.8 spring which is now black. The other is the orion spring. The main difference is with the serpent spring, you can get it really good and there is more of a sweet spot. However with the orion spring you can make a more aggressive clutch, but finding the sweet spot is harder and some people have trouble. I think it is more of a knowledge base thing and if you need that little extra aggressive clutch. Some people like it smoother and that is for the serpent 1.8 black spring. The difference between the black and silver 1.8 serpent spring is the length. If I had to guess the black is about 3/4 to 1mm longer.

Hope this helps,

DJ Apolaro

dj apolaro

I have not ran the 1/8 scale yet, but in sedan the yellow show is more aggressive than the black. The red is similar to the yellow, but I think is last a little longer. I will be running/testing 1/8 starting this weekend and will answer questions as I can.

DJ Apolaro

Walt

iTrader: (2)

I thought that the black (6587xp) clutch was more aggressive than the yellow/brown one (6587n) but gave up some longevity?

And any idea how the Mugen 'super hard' (MUGH0767) spring compares to the Serpent hard 1.8 spring or the Orion spring?

Darint

The Mugen "super hard" spring is just that, extremely hard compared to the serpent spring... Also, keep in mind that the mugen clutch set-up and the serpent clutch set-up are somewhat different (gap wise), and if you intend to use the Mugen spring, I'd recommend resetting your clutch gap..

If I remember correctly, the Mugen clutch gap (from bell to pad) is like 0.30 ~ 0.4mm. While the Serpent recommended clutch gap is 0.7mm. This is the distanced the clutch shoe has to move to engage the clutch bell, and therefore how far the spring has to compress to engage the clutch...

The Serpent has almost twice the distance to go, to compress the spring, which turns a "super hard" Mugen spring into something closer to a super bind spring with a Serpent clutch gap, and if it coil binds before reaching that 0.7mm, then you've just dusted a clutch pad..

Have your tried the Serpent 903199 flyweights? Their a little lighter with the additional hole, which requires more rpm before they begin to push against the spring (centrifugal force) making the clutch a little more aggressive (snappy).

However, the nice thing is having a track with enough grip that allows you to lay down that aggressive clutch!