Serpent 960....
09-14-2005, 11:56 AM
#196
Sorry Howard, I am told the Picco wheels are propriatary (only fits Picco).
Serpent, PRP XR8, GS Sonic use same wheel.
Kyosho, Delta, Mugen share same wheel (off-set).
Don't know about HPI.
Serpent, PRP XR8, GS Sonic use same wheel.
Kyosho, Delta, Mugen share same wheel (off-set).
Don't know about HPI.
09-14-2005, 11:59 AM
#197
Buyer Beware
the 960 is on its way here and into the hands of my boyfriend....i hope he is happy.
i also heard that this car is very nice....
i also heard that this car is very nice....
09-14-2005, 01:59 PM
#198
Originally Posted by duneland
Sorry Howard, I am told the Picco wheels are propriatary (only fits Picco).
Serpent, PRP XR8, GS Sonic use same wheel.
Kyosho, Delta, Mugen share same wheel (off-set).
Don't know about HPI.
Serpent, PRP XR8, GS Sonic use same wheel.
Kyosho, Delta, Mugen share same wheel (off-set).
Don't know about HPI.
09-14-2005, 09:35 PM
#199
Tech Regular
Initial Thoughts - Building the 960
I received my 960 this afternoon, and excitedly begin putting it together. This is the 5th or 6th Serpent kit I've built, 705, 835, 950R and now the 960. Of all the kits, I'd say it's simply the best build. I spend a lot of time ensuring each A-arm both top and bottom fit correctly and are smooth enough to fall by their own weight (the plastic arms fall by gravity even without the hubs, pillowballs and bearings etc). Usually, I spend quite a bit of time ensuring this smooth movement of the arms. The new Serpent 960 went together without the need of my normal heat gun or the occasional reamer to get the fit I needed... It was simply follow the directions and the A-Arms fall on their own... So far, the fit finish and build are simply on a whole new level. I haven't driven the car (yet), but I can say from the beginning of the build, this car is definetly taken a step in the right direction.
www.tsrcar.com
www.tsrcar.com
09-14-2005, 10:33 PM
#200
Originally Posted by Darint
I received my 960 this afternoon, and excitedly begin putting it together. This is the 5th or 6th Serpent kit I've built, 705, 835, 950R and now the 960. Of all the kits, I'd say it's simply the best build. I spend a lot of time ensuring each A-arm both top and bottom fit correctly and are smooth enough to fall by their own weight (the plastic arms fall by gravity even without the hubs, pillowballs and bearings etc). Usually, I spend quite a bit of time ensuring this smooth movement of the arms. The new Serpent 960 went together without the need of my normal heat gun or the occasional reamer to get the fit I needed... It was simply follow the directions and the A-Arms fall on their own... So far, the fit finish and build are simply on a whole new level. I haven't driven the car (yet), but I can say from the beginning of the build, this car is definetly taken a step in the right direction.
www.tsrcar.com
www.tsrcar.com
09-14-2005, 11:00 PM
#201
Tech Apprentice
960
i got the 960 saturday the car went together easy no problems it went together in about 6-8 hours . it is the nicest i car i put together. the parts fit nice and the suspenision movement was free
i was very impresed when i saw the car on the track it carried a lot of corner speed an rotated very well i am glad i made the switch
bryon
i was very impresed when i saw the car on the track it carried a lot of corner speed an rotated very well i am glad i made the switch
bryon
09-15-2005, 05:57 AM
#202
Originally Posted by going4#1
Not really. I believe it's more a culture of ideas difference. Mugen and Kyosho don't bother explaining what everthing does. They just tell you how to set up the car so it's drives in a stable configuration. Serpent has been around a long time, near the beginning of RC pro racing. Everything is geared to understanding your race car and what each setting does but not holding your hand. The idea is, you figure out what to do and set the car up to do that. This is either very good (because you need to understand how settings effect the car) or an annoying pain in the ass (there are only so many hours on a Saturday you wish to waste setting up as opposed to racing). From the 710/950 the basic setting is fairly stable. As for the 960, it seems the basic setup makes the car quite quick. Fewer adjustments may be needed to get it optimal.
Rob
Rob
09-15-2005, 06:20 AM
#203
I agree this is the best kit yet, a couple of finer points that you should keep an eye on during assembly.
1.) With JR Servo's and grommets, you need to flip the steering mount over to get the steering linkage in the proper geometry for JR servo's
2.) With the throtle servo in the upright position you can mount the JR servo under the radio tray, to get it lower. Mount the throtle linkage to the inside of the servo, otherwise it may rub the tank. This will work with KO as well.
3.) If you mount the larger battery pack nice and clean, by taking off all the excess heat shrink, you can lower the tank a couple mm, by substituting washers instead of the provided shims. You will also get better clearance when the carb slide is fully extened.
4.) When you run the rear of the car wide 262-263mm, the rear dog bone lash is a bit much. Cut the some of the other dog bone spacers provided or use some fuel tubing to reduce the amount of play.
5.) If you run the aluminum x-brace under the radio tray, the side brace on the side belt tensioner side doesn't mate up perfectly with the rear bulkhead, a few clutch shims between the rear bolt on the side plate and left rear bulkhead fixed this, so you don't tweak the side plate and tensioner.
If you didn't do any of these things, it's okay they are not big issues, just little things to make a great car even better.
I'll continue to post more, if you guys are interested.
The car was great the first time out at Toledo last weekend, it should be awesome for the Midwest Series race this weekend.
1.) With JR Servo's and grommets, you need to flip the steering mount over to get the steering linkage in the proper geometry for JR servo's
2.) With the throtle servo in the upright position you can mount the JR servo under the radio tray, to get it lower. Mount the throtle linkage to the inside of the servo, otherwise it may rub the tank. This will work with KO as well.
3.) If you mount the larger battery pack nice and clean, by taking off all the excess heat shrink, you can lower the tank a couple mm, by substituting washers instead of the provided shims. You will also get better clearance when the carb slide is fully extened.
4.) When you run the rear of the car wide 262-263mm, the rear dog bone lash is a bit much. Cut the some of the other dog bone spacers provided or use some fuel tubing to reduce the amount of play.
5.) If you run the aluminum x-brace under the radio tray, the side brace on the side belt tensioner side doesn't mate up perfectly with the rear bulkhead, a few clutch shims between the rear bolt on the side plate and left rear bulkhead fixed this, so you don't tweak the side plate and tensioner.
If you didn't do any of these things, it's okay they are not big issues, just little things to make a great car even better.
I'll continue to post more, if you guys are interested.
The car was great the first time out at Toledo last weekend, it should be awesome for the Midwest Series race this weekend.
09-15-2005, 06:35 AM
#204
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
I agree this is the best kit yet, a couple of finer points that you should keep an eye on during assembly.
1.) With JR Servo's and grommets, you need to flip the steering mount over to get the steering linkage in the proper geometry for JR servo's
2.) With the throtle servo in the upright position you can mount the JR servo under the radio tray, to get it lower. Mount the throtle linkage to the inside of the servo, otherwise it may rub the tank. This will work with KO as well.
3.) If you mount the larger battery pack nice and clean, by taking off all the excess heat shrink, you can lower the tank a couple mm, by substituting washers instead of the provided shims. You will also get better clearance when the carb slide is fully extened.
4.) When you run the rear of the car wide 262-263mm, the rear dog bone lash is a bit much. Cut the some of the other dog bone spacers provided or use some fuel tubing to reduce the amount of play.
5.) If you run the aluminum x-brace under the radio tray, the side brace on the side belt tensioner side doesn't mate up perfectly with the rear bulkhead, a few clutch shims between the rear bolt on the side plate and left rear bulkhead fixed this, so you don't tweak the side plate and tensioner.
If you didn't do any of these things, it's okay they are not big issues, just little things to make a great car even better.
I'll continue to post more, if you guys are interested.
The car was great the first time out at Toledo last weekend, it should be awesome for the Midwest Series race this weekend.
1.) With JR Servo's and grommets, you need to flip the steering mount over to get the steering linkage in the proper geometry for JR servo's
2.) With the throtle servo in the upright position you can mount the JR servo under the radio tray, to get it lower. Mount the throtle linkage to the inside of the servo, otherwise it may rub the tank. This will work with KO as well.
3.) If you mount the larger battery pack nice and clean, by taking off all the excess heat shrink, you can lower the tank a couple mm, by substituting washers instead of the provided shims. You will also get better clearance when the carb slide is fully extened.
4.) When you run the rear of the car wide 262-263mm, the rear dog bone lash is a bit much. Cut the some of the other dog bone spacers provided or use some fuel tubing to reduce the amount of play.
5.) If you run the aluminum x-brace under the radio tray, the side brace on the side belt tensioner side doesn't mate up perfectly with the rear bulkhead, a few clutch shims between the rear bolt on the side plate and left rear bulkhead fixed this, so you don't tweak the side plate and tensioner.
If you didn't do any of these things, it's okay they are not big issues, just little things to make a great car even better.
I'll continue to post more, if you guys are interested.
The car was great the first time out at Toledo last weekend, it should be awesome for the Midwest Series race this weekend.
Last edited by C Verano; 09-15-2005 at 08:48 AM.
09-15-2005, 12:57 PM
#205
Originally Posted by bestindebt
i got the 960 saturday the car went together easy no problems it went together in about 6-8 hours . it is the nicest i car i put together. the parts fit nice and the suspenision movement was free
i was very impresed when i saw the car on the track it carried a lot of corner speed an rotated very well i am glad i made the switch
bryon
i was very impresed when i saw the car on the track it carried a lot of corner speed an rotated very well i am glad i made the switch
bryon
09-15-2005, 02:53 PM
#206
Go Serpent
09-15-2005, 05:59 PM
#207
Thank you very much arron.If you read this can you send me your toledo setup.And do you put the fuel tubing into the same place that the spacer plug goes or do you put it in the other side. thanks [email protected]
mike
mike
09-15-2005, 06:22 PM
#208
Tech Initiate
Hobby gets cheaper.
I would not hold this back from you. On the ever growing expenses in rc land.
Great combo price for 1:8th tires
If you are outside the european union:
8 tires 2 sets front + 2 sets rear for 1:8 cars serpent,mugen,kyosho for 56 dollars.
Bigger quantitys get even better prices.
look at the combo deals.
Great combo price for 1:8th tires
If you are outside the european union:
8 tires 2 sets front + 2 sets rear for 1:8 cars serpent,mugen,kyosho for 56 dollars.
Bigger quantitys get even better prices.
look at the combo deals.
