going4#1

Interesting instructions. They seem to be saying apply glue to pad and brake plate, let dry, then squash together. How will the glue stick if it's dry? I've never heard of 'Impact adhesive'. Is that a special glue? What do others think?

From Serpent's web site (http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=4350)

*IMPORTANT* Mounting Information
Due to the material used, mounting these pads require more care and different techniques.

1. Degrease and then roughen the appropriate side of the steel brake plates using sand paper or similar.
2. Apply Impact adhesive (preferable heat resistant) to both pads (darker side) and plates on the correct sides.
3. Wait the required amount of time for the glue to harden (read the instructions of the glue)
4. Introduce the pads and plates to each other and press together as hard as possible (use of a bench vice is recommended).

I wonder if Serpent is giving up one of their current type of brake pads?

going4#1

Thanks.

Doug M

In some parts of the world "impact adhesive" is also known as "contact cement". Beleive me, when the opossing sides have cured for the proper time and are joined, it will be a very strong bond. Make sure you have the pad and plate aligned as close as possible because you will have only one chance once you press the two parts together.

PS: Make sure the steel brake plates are roughed up very well to insure a good bond.

going4#1

In a couple of weeks I'll be driving on a circuit I've never driven on. In fact, as far as I know, no 960 has ever driven on this circuit. It is HUGE! It's Hitec's circuit at their headquarters in South Korea. The lanes are about 8 cars wide. No joke. It has turns but there's really no major challenging areas. It's what you'd call a 'full throttle' track. I'm looking for setup suggestions to consider as I setup the car next weekend for practise. I've heard grip is high. Here's what it looks like. Those little specs you see are 1/10th cars!

going4#1

Another set of photos for this mega circuit. I've never seen anything like it. I guess I'll be seeing a lot of it soon. I've got to drive it in a few weeks.

To see more photos you need to glue the following three lines together (the forum software doesn't adapt too well if it's one line). I have never seen a track this wide. Must be a world record.

http://www.photoi.net/album/public_r...&pAP=1&pTitle=
%BF%C0%C3%A2%21&pCatName=%C1%F7%C0%E5++++++++++++
&pCategory=AL000007&pNowPage=1

going4#1

Thanks Doug. Is contact cement the same as 'rubber' cement? A sort of thick yellow/white glue that dries fast, sticks to almost anything, and comes off very clean if you pull it off what you've stuck it to.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

On the Serpent website they have two Spanish manuals available for download, but no English version?? Anyone have a link to an English version of the 960 manual?

Thanks and best regards,

Doug M

That would probably work. The stuff I have used for years is made by 3M Company and is called Weatherstrip Adhesive. The part number is 8001 and comes in a tube. It is commonly called "gorilla snot" because of the putrid yellowish color and slimy consistency.

Orfeous

easy reading

http://www.mytsn.com/products/dnlfil...anualWeb%2Epdf

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the reply. But not sure if it's just me, but the link doesn't work

M7H

The link works, so it's You....

right mouse button, save as......

Orfeous

ok, strange it works for me.. by the way.. go to www.mytsn.com and click on "products" and then click on "S960" then click on "Downloads" and then scroll down a bit and there you see the english manual. at the bottom "Serpent 960 - Instruction Manual"

have you installed a pdf-viewer? maybe thats why the link doesnt work?

markp27

Tony for some of the documents on mytsn you have to first login. This is the reason you don't see the english manual on the downloads page. Register/Login and you'll see the documents you want.

Cheers, Mark.

captian

track looks wide no need for running close and you can pass with room

going4#1

Bob, how is your clutch setup going? Hope things are turning out. The recommendation regarding the new flyweights is a good one. The best feature is the fact the weights now 'lead' rather than 'trail'. In between can help too and it's the method used by Mugen. After meeting with Serpent's Rene Cornella he recommends not using this method though due to risk of loosing a flyweight. This has happened to me with my MRX-4. You won't win or lose a race based on in-between on on-pin config of the flyweights so you may want to stick with the on-pin method, at least initially, as you try other methods for more punch.

Another suggestion is to use the part 909520 (Centax II / III spring 1.8 (10mm)). You can get more tension out of the spring and I have good experience using it.

You can also make the 2-speed shoe-housing gap larger so when the car hits it's second gear, it will punch harder. I have not see a problem with 1/8th cars and a hard punching 2-speed but some 1/10th racers reported shreaded pinions as a result.

You should keep in mind there is a diminshing return on punch. Punch is simply a burst of acceleration as the shoe (spinning at crankshaft speed) hits the clutch bell, engages the 2-speed, which engages the front and rear wheels via belts. While it's not problem for the shoe or gears to spin fast other components cannot keep up as quickly. Typically tires spinning at a high speed can slip in accordance with grip (tire compound + surface condition). Belts can also slip. The clutch shoe can also slip. In the best case, a slipping tire or belt is just a waste of fuel but in the worst case the car is destabilized, wasting time, and perhaps getting into an accident.

Getting a good feel for the car is a always a goal but if you are racing, lap times are an objective measure of whether a certain clutch setting is better or not.