Kyosho Evolva 2005
#361
Originally Posted by fraz
Hey Tim,
Do we get a part number for 03-05 conversion kits yet? This is one thing that I think Serpent does right over the other manufacturers is allowing users to purchase upgrades. I may have missed a post mentioning it so I am sorry if it was an oversight.
Do we get a part number for 03-05 conversion kits yet? This is one thing that I think Serpent does right over the other manufacturers is allowing users to purchase upgrades. I may have missed a post mentioning it so I am sorry if it was an oversight.
Code:
FM503-0 Knuckle Arm (0 degree) FM510C Fuel Tank with air room cap FM531-4319 Front Spring (4.3-1.9/White) FM532-5319 Rear Spring (5.3-1.9/White) FMW8B SP Middle Belt (420) FMW9B SP Rear Belt (201) FMW20 Off-set Spacer W6002 Titanium Shcok Shaft (30) W6008 Titanium Shcok Shaft (33) FMW25 SP Front Belt (207) APP01 APP Brake Rotor & Pad set (32x4mm) FMW26 SP Front One-touch Stopper 2 FMW27 SP Rear One-touch Stopper 2 VZW064 Lightweight 1st Gear Housing FMW29 Rear Universal Swingshaft FMW34 Adjustable Servo Saver FMW36 Front Universal Swingshaft FMW37 Aluminum Middle Shaft Mount FMW38 Aluminum Body Mount FMW39 Aluminum Front Upper Arm Mount FMW533-35 New Rear Hinge Pin Blocks
#362
I was at Cincinnati last weekend and suffered with severe lack of rear bite. I wanted to try a very soft clutch that would slip rather then spin the tires but I really had no idea what to try. My question is what clutch weights (black,white, drilled?) and shoe (black,grey,red,brown,whatever?) would you guys think would be worth trying, I did soften the spring setting a little but it was hardly noticeable. Also, I heard the clutch used at the Worlds last year had a lot of slip and wondered if anyone knew what they used there.
That track was very weird, lots of front bite and no rear bite, very hard front tires, even narrow cut down fronts were common. Wide front track, narrow rear, you name it and people were trying it looking for rear traction. It has been sealed and will probably change by the time the Nationals get here but it is very tricky right now.
That track was very weird, lots of front bite and no rear bite, very hard front tires, even narrow cut down fronts were common. Wide front track, narrow rear, you name it and people were trying it looking for rear traction. It has been sealed and will probably change by the time the Nationals get here but it is very tricky right now.
#363
Tech Apprentice
sliding rears
It can be quite a lot of reasons for sliding rear but you can try this. Use the standard set up (ie: Front 252. Rear 262, long chassis, 500W oil all round and 35 tyres-if that is what your track normally runs), optional rear roll bar flat, front roll bar 45 degree.
Frist work on the springs and there are a few combinations:
Mugen white front and rear
Kyosho silver front and copper rear
Kyosho black front and Mugen white/Kyosho copper rear
Front shock position 1 or 2 (I prefer 1 if the nose is not diving)
Rear shock position 1
On the clutch side you don't want to produce too much HP to spin the wheels, just enough to get u around. What I will recommend is:
stock clutch with no holes drilled on white shoes 0.5mm gap with stock clutch spring. spring tension 0.9 to start with and 1.2mm max Stock clutch shoe, no modification.
Messina has the most pecular situation as the track was real dirty and you cannot run outside the line or you will be going to the wall! That's why the clutch was set real soft to slow down the bang against the bell. Just real smooth acceleration and not so much power.
Try it and see what happens
Frist work on the springs and there are a few combinations:
Mugen white front and rear
Kyosho silver front and copper rear
Kyosho black front and Mugen white/Kyosho copper rear
Front shock position 1 or 2 (I prefer 1 if the nose is not diving)
Rear shock position 1
On the clutch side you don't want to produce too much HP to spin the wheels, just enough to get u around. What I will recommend is:
stock clutch with no holes drilled on white shoes 0.5mm gap with stock clutch spring. spring tension 0.9 to start with and 1.2mm max Stock clutch shoe, no modification.
Messina has the most pecular situation as the track was real dirty and you cannot run outside the line or you will be going to the wall! That's why the clutch was set real soft to slow down the bang against the bell. Just real smooth acceleration and not so much power.
Try it and see what happens
Originally Posted by OldNSlow2
I was at Cincinnati last weekend and suffered with severe lack of rear bite. I wanted to try a very soft clutch that would slip rather then spin the tires but I really had no idea what to try. My question is what clutch weights (black,white, drilled?) and shoe (black,grey,red,brown,whatever?) would you guys think would be worth trying, I did soften the spring setting a little but it was hardly noticeable. Also, I heard the clutch used at the Worlds last year had a lot of slip and wondered if anyone knew what they used there.
That track was very weird, lots of front bite and no rear bite, very hard front tires, even narrow cut down fronts were common. Wide front track, narrow rear, you name it and people were trying it looking for rear traction. It has been sealed and will probably change by the time the Nationals get here but it is very tricky right now.
That track was very weird, lots of front bite and no rear bite, very hard front tires, even narrow cut down fronts were common. Wide front track, narrow rear, you name it and people were trying it looking for rear traction. It has been sealed and will probably change by the time the Nationals get here but it is very tricky right now.
#364
The contact patch of the tyres are to big. On low grip surfaces the tyre will break away at a given KG/cm. Try triming off the inner half of the tyres down to the plastic as an experiment.
Cheers
Cheers
#365
Try my setup, despite the track conditions, this seemed to work pretty well.
http://www.empirercracing.com/Cincinnati.html
I ran the smallest rear empire sway bar. (If you don't have the empire, try running without one.
http://www.empirercracing.com/Cincinnati.html
I ran the smallest rear empire sway bar. (If you don't have the empire, try running without one.
#366
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
rear camber adjustment
Hello,
I finished building an 05 Evolva and am in the process of going through the setup. Is there a 'trick' to adjusting the rear camber? In order to get to the threaded rod, I've removed the body mount, and used a small L shaped allen wrench to turn the rod. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
I finished building an 05 Evolva and am in the process of going through the setup. Is there a 'trick' to adjusting the rear camber? In order to get to the threaded rod, I've removed the body mount, and used a small L shaped allen wrench to turn the rod. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
#367
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Hello,
I finished building an 05 Evolva and am in the process of going through the setup. Is there a 'trick' to adjusting the rear camber? In order to get to the threaded rod, I've removed the body mount, and used a small L shaped allen wrench to turn the rod. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
I finished building an 05 Evolva and am in the process of going through the setup. Is there a 'trick' to adjusting the rear camber? In order to get to the threaded rod, I've removed the body mount, and used a small L shaped allen wrench to turn the rod. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance,
Steve
#368
We have been taking a body clip and straightening it out leaving a 45 deg bend on one end and a 90 deg on the other. You have to alternate between the 45 and 90 ends to turn it but you can do it with out any disassembly.
#371
Tech Apprentice
Doug day I thought you were driving HPI ????I saw you at a race in japan last sunday with the HPI guys
#373
the lower the number the more steering you get
#375
see you then