Mugen MTX-3
10-07-2004, 02:07 AM
K1347
hi..goin to get this uJ from K factory...any comments...?
10-07-2004, 02:10 AM
Re: Re: wheel hex..
Originally posted by FREAKAH
I have the Mugens ones and the 3Racing ones. The 3R hexes work fine for what they are and I have had no problems with them.
I have the Mugens ones and the 3Racing ones. The 3R hexes work fine for what they are and I have had no problems with them.
10-08-2004, 10:02 AM
been using rd universals and hexes, work fine so far for the last 5 months racing. I think that they are manufactured by 3racing since they look identical. made in taiwan!
10-09-2004, 01:48 AM
Re: Re: Re: wheel hex..
Originally posted by rcabj
i assume the mugen hex u mention above is the alloy type....what about the mugen plastic hex....is it ok?
i assume the mugen hex u mention above is the alloy type....what about the mugen plastic hex....is it ok?
Yep, I meant the Mugen aluminum hex.
About the Plastic hexes, They do the job well and are Lightweight.
The only reason I bought the clamping aluminum hexes is because I hated when the plastic hex came off(and sometimes losing the pin) with the wheel/tire when doing tire changes
.
10-11-2004, 08:33 PM
I know it has been covered in here, but with over 14k posts, I don't have the patience to look through. I can't find the mugen forum on their site at all so I am coming back here. What have anybody found to be different when going from the stock 19/24 side pulleys to the 16/19 pulleys. What in terms of handling as well as tire wear front or rear?
I am willing to listen to all opinions on this, but would prefer to hear from people that race to win. I would also like anybody who answers this to tell me if they have actually tried this, or if the answer they are giving is what they have heard but not actually tried it. Not trying to get snooty, but giving an answer that is what some guy that you never met told some other guy online that he thought blah blah blah.... I think you all get the picture. Actual experience from serious racers is what I am after.
I am willing to listen to all opinions on this, but would prefer to hear from people that race to win. I would also like anybody who answers this to tell me if they have actually tried this, or if the answer they are giving is what they have heard but not actually tried it. Not trying to get snooty, but giving an answer that is what some guy that you never met told some other guy online that he thought blah blah blah.... I think you all get the picture. Actual experience from serious racers is what I am after.
10-11-2004, 08:59 PM
susp. set up
what are some other shock weights and springs that i can run besides stock to let me go in and out of the turns faster with good traction, especially in the rear, i was just able to stop doing donuts with the stock set up. will the new blue springs and diff oils help me?
10-11-2004, 09:03 PM
Here's what I've found. The car steers better with the 16/19 for my taste. I run a 4mm split to keep the od ratio at 1:1. The tire wear is definitely more even. The biggest advantage in this I feel is that the car will handle the same from beginning to end of a race. If your OD ratio changes from the beginning to the end of a race, the handling WILL change. One bad thing I've found about it is that there is much more internal drag with the belts due to the smaller side pulleys. The car will not coast as well and it is noticable. It almost feels like slight drag brake. Maybe i'm exagerrating, but just trying to give u an idea. I have been playing with a different setup. I put a 23t pulley from a Serpent in place of the stock 24t pulley. I'm still not sure which one I like better. To get a 1:1 OD ratio u need a 2.5mm split so you don't have to true the fronts as much. The car still gets more steering, the tire wear is not as even, but still more even than stock setup so the car will still handle more consistently over a long run. And the car definitely rolls much more freely than with the 16/19. Hope this helps. ANyone else have any thoughts?
10-11-2004, 09:20 PM
Originally posted by gonzoY5
Here's what I've found. The car steers better with the 16/19 for my taste. I run a 4mm split to keep the od ratio at 1:1. The tire wear is definitely more even. The biggest advantage in this I feel is that the car will handle the same from beginning to end of a race. If your OD ratio changes from the beginning to the end of a race, the handling WILL change. One bad thing I've found about it is that there is much more internal drag with the belts due to the smaller side pulleys. The car will not coast as well and it is noticable. It almost feels like slight drag brake. Maybe i'm exagerrating, but just trying to give u an idea. I have been playing with a different setup. I put a 23t pulley from a Serpent in place of the stock 24t pulley. I'm still not sure which one I like better. To get a 1:1 OD ratio u need a 2.5mm split so you don't have to true the fronts as much. The car still gets more steering, the tire wear is not as even, but still more even than stock setup so the car will still handle more consistently over a long run. And the car definitely rolls much more freely than with the 16/19. Hope this helps. ANyone else have any thoughts?
Here's what I've found. The car steers better with the 16/19 for my taste. I run a 4mm split to keep the od ratio at 1:1. The tire wear is definitely more even. The biggest advantage in this I feel is that the car will handle the same from beginning to end of a race. If your OD ratio changes from the beginning to the end of a race, the handling WILL change. One bad thing I've found about it is that there is much more internal drag with the belts due to the smaller side pulleys. The car will not coast as well and it is noticable. It almost feels like slight drag brake. Maybe i'm exagerrating, but just trying to give u an idea. I have been playing with a different setup. I put a 23t pulley from a Serpent in place of the stock 24t pulley. I'm still not sure which one I like better. To get a 1:1 OD ratio u need a 2.5mm split so you don't have to true the fronts as much. The car still gets more steering, the tire wear is not as even, but still more even than stock setup so the car will still handle more consistently over a long run. And the car definitely rolls much more freely than with the 16/19. Hope this helps. ANyone else have any thoughts?
The reason you get more steering with the smaller front tires is, you have to raise the car with the spring collars. When you do this, you raise the roll center of the car, and it gives you more front traction.
10-11-2004, 09:37 PM
GonzoY5: Do you think it is possible that part of the reason you feel you get more steering is because of the additional rolling resistance?
I asked Tim Long the same question, and he said it made a big difference in the rear tire wear. That is all he said. I know that Robbie runs the stock pulley setup and he told me to start a long main (45-60 mins) with a 1.5mm stagger. I will probably call Tim back and ask him about the other effects of the 16/19 pulley as well as his opinion on the stagger and rolling resistance. If anyone else has experience with both pulley setups I am very interested in hearing about it. I am doing my final preps for the Paris race.
Also, did you use the stock belt with the 23t Serpent pulley, or did you have to find a shorter one?
I asked Tim Long the same question, and he said it made a big difference in the rear tire wear. That is all he said. I know that Robbie runs the stock pulley setup and he told me to start a long main (45-60 mins) with a 1.5mm stagger. I will probably call Tim back and ask him about the other effects of the 16/19 pulley as well as his opinion on the stagger and rolling resistance. If anyone else has experience with both pulley setups I am very interested in hearing about it. I am doing my final preps for the Paris race.
Also, did you use the stock belt with the 23t Serpent pulley, or did you have to find a shorter one?
10-11-2004, 09:40 PM
Originally posted by Slotmachine
The reason you get more steering with the smaller front tires is, you have to raise the car with the spring collars. When you do this, you raise the roll center of the car, and it gives you more front traction.
The reason you get more steering with the smaller front tires is, you have to raise the car with the spring collars. When you do this, you raise the roll center of the car, and it gives you more front traction.
10-11-2004, 09:47 PM
GonzoY5: Do you think it is possible that part of the reason you feel you get more steering is because of the additional rolling resistance?
10-12-2004, 07:34 AM
Originally posted by gonzoY5
Here's what I've found. The car steers better with the 16/19 for my taste. I run a 4mm split to keep the od ratio at 1:1. The tire wear is definitely more even. The biggest advantage in this I feel is that the car will handle the same from beginning to end of a race. If your OD ratio changes from the beginning to the end of a race, the handling WILL change.
Here's what I've found. The car steers better with the 16/19 for my taste. I run a 4mm split to keep the od ratio at 1:1. The tire wear is definitely more even. The biggest advantage in this I feel is that the car will handle the same from beginning to end of a race. If your OD ratio changes from the beginning to the end of a race, the handling WILL change.
We only ever ran one heat with the standard pulley system before the change to the 16/19 system. For us (my son is the driver) coming from a Kyosho Evo, the O/D is quite normal. We didn't really notice a change in free roll, but considering we only ran one heat with stock pulleys, that's not surprising, I guess. Having said that, the MTX-3 has noticeably worse free roll than the K car and I suspect it's the nice soft belts the K car uses. The K car also uses larger pulleys with it's O/D system. Haven't tried the Snake pulley.
And on the roll centre question, to my mind roll centre is a function of the geometry, and since we haven't changed any pivot points for the arms etc., that hasn't changed. However we have changed the median position of RC movement, so if that's what is meant, then, OK. This change affects the roll axis, also.
Remember that a lower front tyre will have less slip angle and will be more stable, too.
As for stagger, we would take some calculation of tyre wear during qualifying and set up for the main so that tyre wear should be even at about the half distance point. Some say they want the even wear point later in the race in case they need to push - I guess there's lots of answers to that one.
10-12-2004, 08:06 AM
Tech Adept
Guys..For some reason I am having trouble selling my new Mugen X12 engine and pipe
The engine is baically new, has 2 break in tanks (on box) then about 3 tanks runnign rich with 20%. The pipe and engine cost me $440, and I have the boxes. What would be an attractive price to sell this stuff at?
thanks
The engine is baically new, has 2 break in tanks (on box) then about 3 tanks runnign rich with 20%. The pipe and engine cost me $440, and I have the boxes. What would be an attractive price to sell this stuff at?
thanks
10-12-2004, 09:20 AM
e420x:
I can tell you the reason you are having a hard time selling your pipe and engine. I have seen the listing on this board as well as sgrid.
1st:
You paid too much, therefore you want too much. I have the same engine and pipe and paid $360. I got a good deal, but most people I know paid $380 for that combo.
2nd:
Even though you know how much fuel has been through the engine, others don't. Once you start that engine, it is now used and people don't really know if you are telling the truth. I would say that being the engine is used, you would be lucky to get $200 out of it and that is either from someone that believes how much fuel has been through it or from someone that knows you. To another person, $150 is probably more reasonable.
3rd:
The pipe you could probably get 60-70 bucks for that. They don't wear out, so that is easier to get more money (percentage wise)out of it.
Since it is a package, you may not get as much as people want a deal as they buy more stuff.
Having the box doesn't really make a difference unless the box is still sealed. I still have the boxes for every engine I have purchase in the last 5 years except my very first one.
Finally, in many parts of the country the weather is getting colder and nitro racing has stopped so the market is now smaller. I would say when listing that combo on this billboard, start your asking price at $275 and be prepared to get maybe $225-$250.
I can tell you the reason you are having a hard time selling your pipe and engine. I have seen the listing on this board as well as sgrid.
1st:
You paid too much, therefore you want too much. I have the same engine and pipe and paid $360. I got a good deal, but most people I know paid $380 for that combo.
2nd:
Even though you know how much fuel has been through the engine, others don't. Once you start that engine, it is now used and people don't really know if you are telling the truth. I would say that being the engine is used, you would be lucky to get $200 out of it and that is either from someone that believes how much fuel has been through it or from someone that knows you. To another person, $150 is probably more reasonable.
3rd:
The pipe you could probably get 60-70 bucks for that. They don't wear out, so that is easier to get more money (percentage wise)out of it.
Since it is a package, you may not get as much as people want a deal as they buy more stuff.
Having the box doesn't really make a difference unless the box is still sealed. I still have the boxes for every engine I have purchase in the last 5 years except my very first one.
Finally, in many parts of the country the weather is getting colder and nitro racing has stopped so the market is now smaller. I would say when listing that combo on this billboard, start your asking price at $275 and be prepared to get maybe $225-$250.
10-12-2004, 09:21 AM
Tech Adept
Thanks scott, I dropped the price to $265 shipped which I feel is fair. I agree most people do not know how I treated teh engine. I do have references if that helps at all.