loosenut

Ok another noob question....

Why is there such difference in speed between the intermediate and the expert class? Now, I'm not talking about driving skills. Just the pure speed/acceleration of the cars. All the engines are .12 roar legal none-turbo...

It it fuel? Tweaking of engine? Or allowing the engines to run extremely lean? What is it? What is competitive racing engine temperature?? Because I was amazed at the speed of them expert cars...I mean I could have a perferctly driven race and not even come close to any of them because my car is just slower.

G

mtx3racer

fuel and tweaking of the engine. Good temps are like around 255.

loosenut

When you say fuel you mean like what? 30%?? Tweaking in terms of tuning right ? Or actual physical tweaking of the engine itself??

G

Surge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Cartman, I'll have to try some red locktite this weekend. The blue I tried didn't work. If the red doesn't work, JB weld!

Manticore

use CA instead of JBweld. you can remove the bearing with heat if needed.

Surge

iTrader: (2)

You're right, just venting some frustration

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

the difference in speed is these things.

Though the TRP runs good it is about on par with an MT, it is no match for the new novarossi's or serios.

2nd how long is your pipe and which one do you have, the pipe and its length makes a huge difference.

3rd many of the guys running the newer high rpm HP engines are gearing down because the newer engines turn up so hard. the lower gearing gives them tremendous punch and the engine makes up the top end.

4th many of the racers use 30% fuel and tune for 250 ranges on temp some are using 40%

5th there is alot of performance in the clutch of the car, an often overlooked part, clutch performance is important

all of this adds up to the difference you see.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

cartman's right on this one once I did this my upright and axle breakage became minimal. This weekend I had radio hits bad on the fastest part of the back straightaway and I hit the boards about 10 times hard and broke nothing in 53 degree weather. my servo saver is cranked up about 4 turns.

Thunder racer

Hey people.

I got a Question for all you MTX-3 people i just got the SUPER HARD CLUTCH SPRING and the LIGHT WEIGHT CENTRIFUGAL SHOE. and i have just fited it all on and the car and started it up when i first started it nomally and sounded nomall and then when i put it down and started to drive around It became very load and the engin was reving alot more than nomally at "ilde" just sitting there not moving it was very reving hard. And as soon as i put tapped the triger it ENGAUGED very quick and dorve around nommal.

My question is that is the engin meet to be revving this hard when at idle. Is that just becuase of the HARD SPRING.


THANKS any help will be great.

Fire

i guess the engine's idle is not related to the clutch maybe??

did you re-check the throttle linkage after putting the engine back onto the chassis?

Vinyard

Isn't that a Picco engine? pls enlighten

FREAKAH

In addition to the Loctite, you could also score the housing with a new hobby knife. The scoring will produce raised edges which will in turn produce a tighter fit. This is the same concept as "Knurling" for those who know. Score at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock and test fit.

Corse-R

Nope, Odonnell engine will be Nova based, but much different from other Nova cousins, there's not much info regarding this, tell anything when get one on mine hands.

FREAKAH

Surge,
You could also insert the bearing into the housing and "dimple" the surrounding housing with a center-punch or a scribe. The resulting deformed aluminum will hold the bearing in. Dimple at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Take it easy with the hammer strikes though, don't want to deform the metal too much.

Thunder racer

Yer i was driving it around just when i just sat the car there at idle it was reving very hard.