Mugen MTX-3
#6571
Originally posted by alvinm
After an afternoon of racing I was cleaning my car and noticed a crack on the knuckle from the bearing across the bottom of steering arm.My friend had a simular crack on his car.No problems with the pillow balls however(a problem I had alot woth the impulse).
After an afternoon of racing I was cleaning my car and noticed a crack on the knuckle from the bearing across the bottom of steering arm.My friend had a simular crack on his car.No problems with the pillow balls however(a problem I had alot woth the impulse).
didnt realise its was broken during the qualifyings...made me wonder why my car handled weird all of a sudden as i keep running wide when doing left turns
it was hardly to spot the breakage not until when cleaning the car..
#6572
i prefer not to get light up
better check the knuckles tomorrow b4 i go play
better check the knuckles tomorrow b4 i go play
#6573
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
I actually prefer nitro,i read it has to be heated to about 45C before it will emit vapours that can be ignited,that gives me plenty time to escape.
I actually prefer nitro,i read it has to be heated to about 45C before it will emit vapours that can be ignited,that gives me plenty time to escape.
#6574
Hmm...
Broke some stuff today..
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ).
Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. !
Broke some stuff today..
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ).
Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. !
#6575
Tech Elite
iTrader: (52)
Originally posted by TSR6
Haven't had a problem with mine yet. knock on wood.
You guys must be hitting crap hard. I've broken one rear arm, but it was a deserving hit. I caught a wall ( two 2x4's, they aren't forgiving at all, hehe) I even TKO'ed a pan car that was running backwards on the track, and no problems with my car.
Haven't had a problem with mine yet. knock on wood.
You guys must be hitting crap hard. I've broken one rear arm, but it was a deserving hit. I caught a wall ( two 2x4's, they aren't forgiving at all, hehe) I even TKO'ed a pan car that was running backwards on the track, and no problems with my car.
#6576
Originally posted by Novarossi
You jinxed yourself
You jinxed yourself
#6577
so looks like i am not the only one who's in bad luck today
i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD
i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD
#6578
Originally posted by Fire
so looks like i am not the only one who's in bad luck today
i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD
so looks like i am not the only one who's in bad luck today
i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD
#6579
Originally posted by TSR6
Hmm...
Broke some stuff today..
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ).
Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. !
Hmm...
Broke some stuff today..
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ).
Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. !
It seems i might be the only one who hasn't broken any parts yet,so i'm going to be knocking on steel(wood didn't help TSR6 ).Where did the CVD crack?
Show us some pics of the carnage!!!
Last edited by EVOLUTION; 07-19-2003 at 11:27 PM.
#6580
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
LOL!
It seems i might be the only one who hasn't broken any parts yet,so i'm going to be knocking on steel(wood didn't help TSR6 ).Where did the CVD crack?
Show us some pics of the carnage!!!
LOL!
It seems i might be the only one who hasn't broken any parts yet,so i'm going to be knocking on steel(wood didn't help TSR6 ).Where did the CVD crack?
Show us some pics of the carnage!!!
#6581
here is my CVD. The upright is just cracked, nothing to see there.
This is the real carnage.
This is the real carnage.
#6583
Originally posted by TSR6
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall.
Broke the Mugen CVD too. !
Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall.
Broke the Mugen CVD too. !
I'm using the small one (but I crash very sparsingly, but when I crash, for sure that's big, ugly and makes me to say a big OUCH!). Have tried to use the wide ones?
Saw your carnage, feel sorry for seeing this, but is broken in the same place as mine 3Racing ones. Mine Mugens survived without a problem (touch wood). But gonna to order some spares for the CVD's (bone primarly).
Another thing that can make to break the CVD could be the one-way outdrive and the O-rings (remove and try without them). I use the Xray ones (stiffer, lighter and cheaper than Mugen ones).
#6584
Setting the servo-saver on the tight side helps prevent this sorta thing. It helps prevent dogbone popping and CVD breaking by limiting the amount of deflection when the inside wheel/tire hits something. Running the servo-saver super tight is best but it might nessesitate the use of a metal-gear servo though.
#6585
I have also added a steering "stop" by using a longer screw on the outer tierod mounting location. It works but it still need to be a little longer.