speedy100

hi manticore, is a shorter pipe length provides more top end ? if so, can we trim down the mainfold to adjust the pipe length ? thanks

Manticore

that's the way how y ou trim the pipe length. if you want to extend the pipe length, you might want to get short alloy tube between the header and pipe as spacer.

you cannot do much with inline (one piece pipe) as they are fixed length.

FREAKAH

As I understand it, low RC allows the chassis to roll easier while a high RC does just the opposite. The steeply angled and short upper link on the rear of the MTX -3 reduces roll to combat the slightly Higher CG nature of nitro cars. Electric cars usually utilize longer and lower parallel upper links to induce roll because of the very low CG of these cars. On most nitro cars, only the rear utilizes the higher RC because most of the weight is situated at the rear of the car.

The NTC3 is something else though. You'll have to ask Mr. Lett about that one.

RayJ

Thanks for the response. What you say is perfectly correct. I should have thought about it just a little more. I'd be very interested in seeing a setup that you use on a medium grip asphalt track with a 145 foot straight and the normal chicanes and switchbacks.

I run alot of rubber tires and haven't tried foam just yet. I really want to dial the front to rear setup first before I switch to even higher traction foams. Once I get the front and rear of the car to work together I'll switch to foams.

FREAKAH

Check out my rubber set-up a couple of pages back. I'm using a longer rear link(inner hole) with excellent results. I think with foams you need to go with the shorter stock length link.

Corse-R

That's the main reason of your looseness problems. This car was designed with foams not rubber.

The way of working the suspension scheme is designed for the higher traction and grip that foams provide. Believe to all of us that run this car with foams and do the switch to foams.

You don't have the voodo of "¿What kind of: Rim, Insert and Rubber" to run? Is straightforward and you only need to worry of: "¿What hardness need to run?".

RayJ

I'm sure your correct. Tires are the number one tuning factor. I guess I'm trying get this car to do something it cannot do with rubber tires. Any set-ups that you use would be greatly appreciated corse-r!! I have sevral sets of foams that I will start using.

FREAKAH

Again, I'm VERY competetive with the "A" main foam equipped cars on my local track. This could be because of track size, design, surface, etc.. . Now I have a "foam" car so I can really find out.

All you have to do is look and find a set-up for your needs.

FREAKAH

Mugen knew what they were doing when they included a front diff case and a longer rear camber link option.

Corse-R

My main setup is basically the standard setup that goes on the kit but with this modifications (stock setup applies to whose isn't mentioned here):

Front:
- Track width: 196mm (great if you go on twisty tracks go up to 198 or 199 if you can).
- Ride height: 4.5mm
- Camber: 2º
- Caster: 3mm
- Toe: 0.5º out at each wheel.
- Uptravel: 1mm (car has 1mm of uptravel when is at track).
- Anti roll bar: Point at 1:00 in a clock.
- Steering ackerman: B

Rear:
- Track width: 196mm
- Ride height: 5mm
- Camber: 3.5º
- Toe: 2º at each wheel.
- Uptravel: 2mm.
- Anti roll bar: Stock (black) tightened 7mm.
- Upper arm position (upright shims): 1mm.

Tyres: Enneti foams 40shore at Front and Rear, trued at 63mm, beware with the ride height or you start to rub your chassis very soon.
Motor: Novarossi S3 with Novarossi 52604 'In-Line' pipe, stinger drilled at 5.1mm.
Gearing: 17/21 with 47/43 spurs (uhm.... 2nd gear is a little short for my track, but love to hear that wicked sound down the backstraight and is 'enough quick'). Engine never went past 120ºC.
Yellow brake pads.
Mugen 4mm chasis.
30000wt oil in rear diff.
Protoform stratus and stock wing without sidedams (hummm, people thinks that make it a little more twitchy to drive but real fun to drive). Put your body as low as you can but without interfering with the suspension travel.

RayJ

I'll give it a try. Whoooaaa....I'm going to be late for work. Thanks for all your guys help!!

mcsquish

iTrader: (1)

Manticore, where did you get the Kawahara sway bar from? I looked on there web page and didn't see it. My knowledge of importers is zip because I can't get on-line much. Also does the stock brace work with the bar or do I have to get a cool brace like yours? Thanks.

Rayj, I'm at work so I don't have to worry about being late.

dg8one

Corse-R
is that what you mean droop (up travel)


thanks fro the imfo

Corse-R

Nope, droop is another adjustment. Uptravel is the 'rebound' on the official mugen setup sheet. Don't mix with the Upstop adjustment.

Found that this car is happy with droop adjustments that other cars will suffer so much. Normally adjust my Droop at 1 at the front and 6 or 7 on the rear (almost the same if not the same as stock setup). Measured with a Losi droop gauge (will post the same numbers measured with a Hudy device when I get access to one).

As foam tyres go lower on size you need to compensate this adjusting the droop (downstop) and the shock collars (ride height), but the third adjustment you need to change is the camber. If you crank your shock collars you're removing in fact camber and the wheels get 'coning' to the outside (specially on the rear tyres), removing grip. This is very common to see on the MTX3 thanks to their very short upper link of the suspension.

Many think that putting a lot of camber and cone the wheels is in fact 'good' (I say BAAAAAD). When you get your rear tyres with a lot of coning you are adding too rear toe-in to the rear wheels and makes the car twitchy. You need to wear the foams straight (or almost straight).

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Corse-R - Dude, Awesome! I was going to set droop today ( haden't touched as of yet ) and the only droop gauge I have anymore is the Losi one. Saves me from doing it the old fashoned way, or heading down to the LHS to spend even more cash.

As far as coning goes, I remember an interview with i think Joel Johnson that says to not let the tires cone, or it will ''make the car do strange things''