FREAKAH

I'm starting to like that term.

Anybody want to jump on?

There's a bunch of happy and satisfied racers on that there wagon.

YEEEEHAW!!

Cartman

100% true m8!!
thats the good thing its a freeby

Ec1

Does anybody know if the Sting 22t piniong fit the mtx-3??

BossPlaya

I've decided on an MTX-3, after going back and forth between the MTX-3 and an NTC-3. The only reason I was wavering between the two in the firstplace was cause an aquaintance of mine was suddenly wanting to get rid of his NTC-3, but I took a look at it and it was in bad shape. He wanted only 150 for it, but I'd rather just spend the cash and get a new MTX-3. As far as bandwagons go, I dun really care about that kind of nonsense. People will buy the car that suits them. But it was still a tough choice between the 2 cars, cause they both look awesome.

tekrsq

Yes it does....You need to slide the engine over a little, but it will work.

Ec1

Very god....we have a problem with gearing on real long and fast tracks....even with fullsice tires and the tallest gearing...but this is only a problem on extrem tracks.....

By the vay...the mtx-3 dont need any hopups...just train on your driving skills and save the money on tires!

Corse-R

22/42 and still you have problems with gearing? are you running at the long Hockenheim or similar? Had a friend driving at Lostallo (CH) that went with a shorter ratio than yours 21/42.

Ec1

Hasnt tried the 22/42 combo but with 21/42 i was realy out of gear on this tracks.....but they are extrem....

http://user.tninet.se/%7Etxr255f/index.htm

http://www.callidus.se/mhf/index.html

puma1824

I guess I was one of the participating parties in this...anyways, I'm presently building my MTX3 and since I do come from a NTC3 background and an unfortunate experience with a hopped-up to the max RS4-3 SS(talk about poor decision making) I was starting to get a little worried about my new car because of all the hop-ups that I was recommended in purchasing. After reading this post (informative) I would have to take that statement back. In this hobby it is really hard to decifer from "need" and "want," after reading 100+ forum pages I started to "want" more for my new project car. Wanting more had automatically begun the calculations of how much this car is going to cost me in the end. Furthermore, being a true geek I have a spreadsheet of the cost of each car and after calculating the cost of the car and the parts I "wanted" the totals started to go way beyong the cost of my NTC3 and closely reaching the cost of my hopped-up RS4-3. Both of the previous cars were shaft driven so the cost of belts wasn't part of the equation. This will be my first belt driven car and my first true "import" (I'm in the USA) so I hope everyone can accept my initial skeptism. Hopefully once the car is completed and I can try and resist all the extra hop-ups I will like the car instead of having buyers remorse after all is said and done and having to defend my own purchasing decisions.

I have all intention in giving "belted" cars a chance, this is the reason I purschased the car now in the first place. I guess I would be considered one of those people who "jumped the bandwagon" BUT instead of giving up on my present racer I'm going to run them side-by-side and truely form my own opinion. I have a bad habit of "wanting" only the best but also wanting to be cheap as possible. I "hope" I never get that feeling that I spent too much like I did on that dreaded RS4-3 (talk about a money pit).

OK enough of my BS...some questions for present owners

1. If given a choice between (3 racing, Sato Seiki, etc.) hop-up manufacturers, which one would be the best (fit, finish, and cost).
2. What wt. shock oil should I initially use?
3. What would be the best long term solution (keep long term cost and durability in mind) Universals (which brand) or MTX2 dogbones, Stock dogbones w/proper length fuel tubing (what does that mean? - please explaing)?
4. Anyone have Mugen Seiki stickers they can sell me? I'm looking for the 1 1/2" x 3" Mugen Seiki logo. Basically the ones that come with the Mugen Engines.
5. Anyone interested in a NEW MT12 Engine (SG Shaft, Slide carb) for $160.00 shipped (USA Only)?

-Puma

Ec1

The gearing isnt a problem....its realy just on tracks with extrem straits...were even 1/8 cars get out of gear...

Corse-R

Uhm.... 302 meters long. Is barely the lenght of my local track, but I need to reckon that those parabolic turn and all the backstraight is terrific.

My opinion, stick with a 21/42, a 22/42 is too large gearing and those can hamper your speed. Try to run with 63mm tyres.

If you are scared about the integrity of your engine, put an additional 0.10mm shim on the combustion chamber to give to your engine things a little easier. Engine needs to whine a lot during many time (for sure that he runs out of steam, but is quite normal).

Manticore

1/. parts quality from good to bad..... 5 stars, square, kawahara, osaka, sato seiki, shooter, 3racing, GPM.
2/. #600 or 55wt
3/. mugen CVD front and stock dog bone rear
4/. nope, sorry
5/. can it be cheaper?

Ec1

Belive me, you are out of gear there....even with a short pipe and heavy moded engine....im basicly on 2nd gear out on the straight and there on full throtle to the hairpin after the right hand....

NT have just started here in Scandinavia, were the IC235mm class was realy big before...but has died out like in rest of Europe...

Corse-R

Many years ago (when on 235mm was a matter of several manufacturers) and when the Compact, K2-X and Impact run side to side at the tracks here was a great class, but slowly died and the unique contender is the Impact.

I expect to see a Mugen car for the 235mm class another time (don't want to get an 835...).

Ec1

The 235mm class was / is great but its only fun when its realy high grip... I was by the way TQ for last years European Championship...it rained in the final thou and that is not my favorit condtions....

The MTX-3 is realy a great car and Mugen has done the homework....its realy competetiv out of the box and the standard setup is realy balanced...