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Old 09-07-2005, 10:29 PM   #15901
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I think I was talking to someone about a rubber tire set up when I was saying use the Black shoe. When on a high bite track use the grey or red As far as spring I use the gold for most applications, I usually have about 2 full threads showing behind the adjustment nut.
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Old 09-08-2005, 12:41 AM   #15902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr SlotMachine

Just wondering what is the reason to use the stock BLACK clutch instead of the option GREY / RED?? I thought the optional Gray/Red clutch will provide less "slip"?
What is the ideal spring that come with the clutch set, Silver or Gold.

Thanks.
He is talking about using the black clutch shoe for rubber tires. It allows the clutch to slip and prevents the tirers from breaking loose. This can also be used to fine tune the clutch for low or hight traction tracks.
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Old 09-08-2005, 01:11 AM   #15903
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Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.

Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:01 AM   #15904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.

Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
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Old 09-08-2005, 08:45 AM   #15905
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i have an MTX-3 up for grabs if anyone is interested. it's loaded with spares and a serpent starter box. pm for details.
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Old 09-08-2005, 09:43 AM   #15906
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He meant this :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=85041

I haven't change the 2 speed clutch since 4 or 5 months. Make sure to perform periodic check before race day.

Tigthen SK4x8 until tiny gap appeared. If you tighten the screws until TO233 can't twist left & right, the transition from 1st to 2nd feels smoother. And vice versa.
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Old 09-08-2005, 12:04 PM   #15907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.

Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
If you use the longer one you would be better off, I use the short and have never had any problems.
I use the Serpent assembly trick, Screw the grub screw in from the other side, Stick your wrench in through the hole and unscrew the grub from the bottom side like you are taking it out instead of putting it in. That way the screw will never back out all the way by itself.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:34 PM   #15908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
I totally agree with you. We used to race with BSR's, but unfortunately they are not legal sized for sanctioned races, and we had to search for something else...that is how we ended with PMT.....I wised BSR would build a legal sized tyre...I'd go back to them even it they are pricey.

AFM
When would you like to have some? Is there any tolerance to the 26mm width, like can it be 26.30? I ask that because on our current design the rubber overhangs the wheel on the inside of the tire. I can make them on 26mm 5 spoke wheels. If there is no tolerance I will have to narrow the wheel some.
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Old 09-08-2005, 10:21 PM   #15909
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Default rear block wrap up

so if i am racing on a track with low traction i dont want alot of roll because it will cause more sliding. so i should use the C block or B versus the A?
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Old 09-08-2005, 10:45 PM   #15910
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try the C block, should help
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Old 09-09-2005, 07:05 PM   #15911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81
so if i am racing on a track with low traction i don't want a lot of roll because it will cause more sliding. so i should use the C block or B versus the A?
Don't worry so much about the roll factor, the C block will give more traction.
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:31 PM   #15912
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my race is sunday so i will see how the C block works for me with the proper set up. thanks again
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Old 09-10-2005, 09:16 AM   #15913
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I Use C block Works Great
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Old 09-10-2005, 11:57 PM   #15914
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Get this, My wife and I raced on a loose concrete track this weekend and her car was everywhere except where the line was, so i gave the prospec some rear toe in, and lowered the rear shock one hole and tested it between heat's. Better but still a little loose. Then I noticed All of the Mugen guy's had there rear sway bar dissconnected! So, being (Monkey see-Monkey do.)I removed our Mugen's rear sway- And wow! it stuck great! Anybody else tried this? I recommend it on concrete and loose-unpreped track's. Just my 2 cent's. C.
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:03 AM   #15915
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Good on you..... now I learn my ABC
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