Winner's Circle

iTrader: (2)

A lot of people are running the MTX3 with the front end locked. This gives 4 wheel braking and makes the car easier to drive.

They are locking the front by either drilling holes through the one way housing and using Serpent dog bone drivers w/ pins or by putting a MTX2 diff in the front and using the Kawahara diff locker. The disadvantage to the first method is that the Serpent dog bone drivers break easily and for the second method is the weight.

I am making a sold front axles that looks identical to the one way axle. It has 2 set screws to lock the dog bone drivers. All that is required is to grind a small flat on the dog bone driver under the set screw. The small flat does not effect the dog bones ability to be used with a one way if you decide to go back to the standard set up.

I have been using a locked front end on both a Serpent 950R and a Mugen MRX3 with great success. Now this is available from Winner's Circle for the MTX3 for $37.

In stock and ready for delivery.

Lee Muse

RichChang

Can MTX-2 dogbones be used with the MTX-3? Side-by-side the MTX-3 dogbones (I use them in the rear end) are a little bit shorter than the MTX-2 dog bones. I just hand-fit a MTX-2 dogbone into my MTX-3, and it seems to clear everything. However, I did not want to give it a whirl around the track if it is going to break the diff outdrives, etc.

I have a ton of the MTX-2 dogbones and only 1 set of MTX-3 dogbones, which is why I am asking.

-Rich

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

Good ? the 3 dog bones can fall out when turning with the 2 dog bones being a little longer they may not fall out but i would check every thing before trying but sounds like they might

Number 11

I got a MTX3 last fall but I haven't had a chance to race it this spring because every race we had scheduled it has rained. 3 races so far can you believe it over a 6 week period.

The manual doesn't give much explanation on the car and I can't find much info on the Mugen website.

There are 3 rear blocks A, B & C. In what situation should I use these? What is the standard block used? Also the car came with blue springs, purple and grey. Are there any other spring colors and does anyone know what the spring weights are?

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

look back at page 489 or so the rear block are explaned.

gentleman81

iTrader: (2)

you guys have been dropping some real info here the last couple pages thanks to you all.

i still have a problem with tthe rear of my car being very loose and spinning out in the turns.

i run the b ackerman and will be going from the b black to the c block in the rear.

i am starting at the stock settings and i have the 2.5mm sway bar set very close to the ends.

also i have the stock shims in the rear the one thick and one thin on each side.

i have the dark blue springs, should i go stock light blues in the rear?

thanks guys i am getting better, i wish i could race every weekend , i dont get enough track time to test the car in race conditions

Vinyard

how much rear toe in have you got?
got try the caster settings??

gentleman81

iTrader: (2)

2-3.5 degrees i have tried is that enough, our track is kinda slick

and 2 or more degrees of camber.

next time i go out i will try the caster shims, i printed them tonight.

what does the rear sway bar do for traction? where do u guys that have technical tracks run your rear bars?

Number 11

Okay thanks found it. What about the springs?

asw7576

Some drivers have ability to control the car very smoothly, so they don't have spinning problem with dark blue springs front and rear.

Some drivers who can't drive blue springs front and rear should replace the rear with softer springs ( purple or light blue ). Adjust EPA ( end point adjustment for steering left and right ) or reduce dual rate from 100 to 80.

rcabj

iTrader: (1)

hi....so far i am quite comfy with my setups, and this r the setups at almost any track i went to :

-front one way , rear diff with 30000 oil
-front toe out 1, camber 1-1.5deg.
-rear toe in 2 , camber 3-4 deg.
-caster stock
stock springs..with 3000cps sil. oil
B block, B ackerman
-front bar flat,rear 2.5mm

i only play around with tyres shore and ride height...

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (15)

Looking for somewhere that I can buy a complete front diff for the MTX-3. Hobby shop # or web address would be great . Thanks for any help. Mike

RichChang

I am wondering when folks are using the different clutch springs (ie: the gold versus silver) and whether they are using them with particular clutch shoes (I have the grey and black shoes, and the red on the way)?

Also, the MTX-3 I purchased came with grey shock springs. Anyone know how how it compares to the other springs (ie: light blue, dark blue)?

Hopefully I can run the car this weekend for the first time!

Thanks,
-Rich

Number 11

Yeah I have been trying to get an answer on that myself. I gotta say it is hard as hell to get any info on this car unless you have a lot of time to read every page on the thread. I am working on it to though.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

mugen mtx springs

purple 1.6
lt blue 1.7
gray 1.8
white 1.9

I think the dark blues are also 1.7, but are stiffer than the lt blue 1.7's

I have, but have never tried the red clutch although I know some people that prefer it over the grey prospec clutch, which is what I use.

They will probably kill me for posting this, but if you want mugen car info, call Mugen. Robbie and Mike have supplied me with tons of info, that coulpled with my incredible driving skills have give me some very good results. Give Mugen a call, they have always been very helpful, and two of the teams three best drivers (imo) work there.