Mugen MTX-3
04-29-2005, 08:27 PM
trying to locate AAA NIMH hump battery for Rx with no luck, any idea?
04-29-2005, 08:40 PM
www.ace-hobbies.com
look under radios and electronics.
then receiver packs.
800mah pack for 30 bucks
You could also make your own.
look under radios and electronics.
then receiver packs.
800mah pack for 30 bucks
You could also make your own.
04-29-2005, 09:33 PM
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
The car won't handle quite right with larger fronts. Besides that, most people find the rears wear faster, so you normally start with smaller fronts.
The car won't handle quite right with larger fronts. Besides that, most people find the rears wear faster, so you normally start with smaller fronts.
04-30-2005, 11:16 PM
thanks for the info
05-01-2005, 04:48 AM
Originally posted by xrcbuggy
trying to locate AAA NIMH hump battery for Rx with no luck, any idea?
trying to locate AAA NIMH hump battery for Rx with no luck, any idea?
05-01-2005, 06:00 AM
2mm offset tires
who carries 2mm offset front tires, in a solid dish wheel?
i think i have seen the speedmind ones but not sure?
i think i have seen the speedmind ones but not sure?
05-01-2005, 01:04 PM
You can run 0 offset wheels, you will just have to back out your pillow balls a little. I have run them many times.
Treadz and Fast both have dish wheels that work on the MTX3.
Treadz and Fast both have dish wheels that work on the MTX3.
05-01-2005, 07:52 PM
Clutch Help!
Ok, I am still kind of new to this whole Nitro touring car thing. I have the mtx-3 prospec, but I am having a heck of a time getting the clutch working. The car goes and all, but it feels like I have a 25,000 rpm stall converter in there. I mean I really have to wrap it up to get it to move, and wow, when it engages it really hits hard. At first a couple of the locals thought it was something in the two speed and that it was just launching into second. I have played with it and got it somewhat drivable so I know that the car is revving up to about 25k and then engages hard, pulls first gear, and then jumps in to second. I have that part working good, it is just the engine clutch. I have the "stock" pro spec clutch (grey shoe).
05-01-2005, 08:51 PM
Assuming you have assembled everything correctly, I would try loosening the clutch nut (less tension on the spring). It is also possible that you have too much endplay.
Josh Cyruls (cefx) website helped me a lot with the building of the centax clutch. If you build it like the Mugen instructions show, your clutch will drag.
Josh Cyruls (cefx) website helped me a lot with the building of the centax clutch. If you build it like the Mugen instructions show, your clutch will drag.
05-01-2005, 09:01 PM
Re: 2mm offset tires
Originally posted by gentleman81
who carries 2mm offset front tires, in a solid dish wheel?
i think i have seen the speedmind ones but not sure?
who carries 2mm offset front tires, in a solid dish wheel?
i think i have seen the speedmind ones but not sure?
GQ Tires at www.rctexas.com
05-01-2005, 09:03 PM
It looks like I might have a bit too much end play. I measured it at .o25 in. ~.635mm. I will add another shim and see. What do you mean it will drag if I built it like the book? Also do you have the link to the site?
Would switching to the red clutch allow it to engage sooner?
Would switching to the red clutch allow it to engage sooner?
05-01-2005, 09:03 PM
reciever pack
Originally posted by Seisick
try LXCKM2 from tower sells for 22
try LXCKM2 from tower sells for 22
Go on e/bay look under mtx3 or mugen, there are packs on there that are 900 m.a. sanyos. These just hit the market in Japan.
05-01-2005, 09:09 PM
tire size
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
The car won't handle quite right with larger fronts. Besides that, most people find the rears wear faster, so you normally start with smaller fronts.
The car won't handle quite right with larger fronts. Besides that, most people find the rears wear faster, so you normally start with smaller fronts.
I`ve found that if you run a softer front you can start the tires the same size. Besides there is an added benifit, MORE STEERING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-01-2005, 09:14 PM
CLUTCH
Originally posted by Toster
It looks like I might have a bit too much end play. I measured it at .o25 in. ~.635mm. I will add another shim and see. What do you mean it will drag if I built it like the book? Also do you have the link to the site?
Would switching to the red clutch allow it to engage sooner?
It looks like I might have a bit too much end play. I measured it at .o25 in. ~.635mm. I will add another shim and see. What do you mean it will drag if I built it like the book? Also do you have the link to the site?
Would switching to the red clutch allow it to engage sooner?
When you put the clutch together, and put the bell on , push in on it if it hits the clutch shoe put a shim between the adjuster and the clutch bell. When you daont feel any drag anymore, add .010 to the shims then put on the bolt, make sure that there is no endplay and the clutch should be good. ( The gray shoe gives the least amount of slip, the red shoe is almost as much but lasts longer)
05-01-2005, 09:24 PM
pull!
Originally posted by Toma2525
Trouble! I can't figure out what could be wrong. Under initial acceleration, my MTX3 bolts to the right. It is undrivable. I checked the belts thinking that could be it. All good. Then I noticed that my rear differential was "oily", like it had leaked. Could this be it? I am planning a rebuild of the rear dif. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Trouble! I can't figure out what could be wrong. Under initial acceleration, my MTX3 bolts to the right. It is undrivable. I checked the belts thinking that could be it. All good. Then I noticed that my rear differential was "oily", like it had leaked. Could this be it? I am planning a rebuild of the rear dif. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
If you are running a one way, one side of it may be dirty or bad, try to clean it out using alcohol, then put ( 1DROP OF OIL ON EACH ONE) and I am willing to bet that is your problem.