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Old 06-26-2005, 04:10 PM
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Default GS Racing Vision Pro - Info??

I'm in the process of comming back to RC racing and one of the racers at the track has a GS Racing Vision Pro for sale and another has a NTC3 (both of them actually drive Mugans now). The price on the GS is about half the price of the NTC3, but I have not heard any recent information on this car and if I will be able to find parts after I break the ones on the car. I know the NTC3 I can get parts at my local shop however I have also heard that the GS is a tank and will take more abuse than the NTC3.

So my question is where is good place to get parts for the GS and are the Trinity or Kyosho parts interchangeable with the GS? I read somewhere that they might be. OR if I should just purchase the NTC3 because I won't be able to find parts for the GS.

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Old 06-26-2005, 08:52 PM
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The GS car is a good car but it could use some updating. The design is now a few years old but not to say that it wont drive good. IT had its pros and cons like any other car and most guys found the biggest con to be parts support. GS went through a change in distributing which made parts scarce but now i beleive u can buy off of their website.

Over all i think its a good car but you need to consider what will suit your needs best.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:27 PM
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needs?

At this point I'm not sure. I used an RS4 back in 2000 which was a pain trying to keep running. I then raced mostly a TC3 in 2002 outdoor and 2003 indoor (about a year break between). Now I have a Losi JRX-S that is not finished being built nor does it have all the electronics yet. However my track runs nitro and electric outdoor on Sundays and electric indoor on Wednesday. Which is why I am also looking for a nitro.

$200 to get started with a nitro car including engine is not bad, but if parts are scarce then I would have spent $200 on basically a dead weight. I just need something that will allow me to race competitively on our track which is a parking lot that we setup a track on. About 4 people have Mugens and about 4 people have NTC3s. The rest of the drivers have many different cars including V-one S and Mongoose.

-OR-

I might just wait till next season for Nitro and just work on the electric indoor which last all year around. That way I could purchase the new Mugen MTX-4 when it comes out. I should be able to save a couple grad by then to get a nice engine, a good starting kit, and any hopups that might come along. Then people can just stare at my car as I am trying to get the thing started every race.

Tzsu
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Old 06-27-2005, 12:06 PM
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Tzsu,

I've raced the Vision Pro for about a year and half. Not a bad car, and can be set up vary similar to the MTX-3. The good, is that it is a very stable car (even when braking with a front one-way), will take some punishment, and in general vary easy to work on. It will take some abuse, the only part I really broke on a constant basis was the front universals.

You can now get parts directly from GS (they were still setting this up when I switched to the MTX3) or from Horizon Hobbies. GS has also updated the car a little bit (the must have is the new rear hubs). As far the car being "outdated," it isn't any more outdated than the MTX3 (though it still has the upside down steering servo).

Though my advise is to wait for the MTX4 if you don't think you need the practice driving a nitro. Practice on your driving with the electric (maybe a 1/12 scale) and smooth out your driving skills.
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:37 PM
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I swapped my front universals out with ones from the HPI R40 and they held up alot better. If you want help with a set up I have a few good ones. Just Email me or Message me on AIM.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by S.Stew
I swapped my front universals out with ones from the HPI R40 and they held up alot better. If you want help with a set up I have a few good ones. Just Email me or Message me on AIM.
i also broke my front universal so if your saying that the CVD of the R-40 will work with the Vision Pro i might try it as well
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:35 PM
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Yep. The R40 bones work a bit different though.

The CVD pin is held in place by the bearing, so its a little difficult to assemble but like i said, they are stronger and worked perfect for me. Plus, they are only $8 if i remember correctly.
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