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Old 12-06-2013, 10:51 PM   #151
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Ned.......post some pics...........looking specifically for details of chassis shape.......does this car have stiffening ribs down the length of chassis??...my
scratch is going together fly by day...
The chassis is shaped pretty much like a 4WD car, no stiffeners. It is a fiberglass core with a top and bottom layer of CF. The only stiffening comes from the radio tray which is mounted to a normal cross member at the back (that also holds the roll over bar) and two aluminum posts in the front, mounted side by side, maybe about an inch or so apart.

The car seems VERY light...

http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?id=2135&f=19
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:58 AM   #152
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The chassis is shaped pretty much like a 4WD car, no stiffeners. It is a fiberglass core with a top and bottom layer of CF. The only stiffening comes from the radio tray which is mounted to a normal cross member at the back (that also holds the roll over bar) and two aluminum posts in the front, mounted side by side, maybe about an inch or so apart.

The car seems VERY light...

http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?id=2135&f=19
So there is no way to adjust stiffness of chassis??.. Are
the front arms adjustable???... Trying to see where he adjustability
is??...any way to adjust tweak up front??....Jason.. You have that rear
diff pulley in stock???... How much???
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:31 AM   #153
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Originally Posted by Taylorm View Post
So there is no way to adjust stiffness of chassis??.. Are
the front arms adjustable???... Trying to see where he adjustability
is??...any way to adjust tweak up front??....Jason.. You have that rear
diff pulley in stock???... How much???
No way that I can see to adjust anything as far as the chassis stiffness. (If you want to adjust stuff, my I suggest you run 4wd open! )

Front arms are adjustable for camber and castor (also toe). No tweak adjustment, front or rear. The front is full floating. (See link I sent last night-translate with google or bing. It is mentioned in there.)

I believe Jason is racing in Florida. but here is the link to the pulley on his site. Looking thru the parts for both the 12 and 13 cars may help, Many are the same.

http://www.irwinrc.com/product-p/00187.htm

Good luck,
Ned

Last edited by aarcobra; 12-07-2013 at 08:33 AM. Reason: corrected link
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:44 AM   #154
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with the floating front end there would be no tweak to adjust although you could use a o-ring or rubber washer between the floating lower arm and the chassis plate if you wanted to add some resistance between the floater and chassis
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:47 AM   #155
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although i do see where you must pay attention to body mounting
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:06 AM   #156
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with the floating front end there would be no tweak to adjust although you could use a o-ring or rubber washer between the floating lower arm and the chassis plate if you wanted to add some resistance between the floater and chassis
That's the plan on my scratch... Rubber between
beam and chassis.. With bolts/ nuts to adjust tweak
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:51 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylorm View Post
So there is no way to adjust stiffness of chassis??.. Are
the front arms adjustable???... Trying to see where he adjustability
is??...any way to adjust tweak up front??....Jason.. You have that rear
diff pulley in stock???... How much???
On the Due you can use an optional carbon fiber chassis stiffener plate, GT115 is the part number. It goes from the front two standoffs that mount the front of the radio tray, and uses an unused hole just ahead of the tray, to stiffen the chassis at that point. It is where the chassis would have the most potential to flex, since everything forward of and behind that point is tied to other things. With the centered servo on the Evo I don't know if this part would work. If you end up with an unused countersunk hole in your chassis after the car is assembled, slightly in front of the radio tray standoffs, that is it's purpose - to mount the stiffener.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:58 PM   #158
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The rear dog bone cross pin is too long to fit into the axle/bearing assembly. I ground a few thousandths off the end of the pins to let it move freely on the outer end. The inner end is ok but you may want to grind both so they can go in either way. I put a 1/4 inch wide piece of exhaust tube silicone over the inner drive connector where the dog bone slots are to hold the bone in position while assembling the rear. Don't know how it will work when the car is running but lets me align the bones easily. (I did not grind both ends of the bones' cross pins so they stuck out of the slot enough for the tube to hold them.)


Ned
Ned - On the Dues one end of the dogbones has the pin ground down very slightly to fit inside the hub bearings - it is very easy to not notice it at first, as the difference in the pin length between the two ends is slight. I don't know if the Evos had these shortened pins on one end, although I would have thoughts so as I believe that is a common part between the two cars.

Good idea on the silicone to hold the dogbone on the diff end - without something to hold the dogbone up straight it is a real pain in the ass to get the pins and slots to line up, especially when you're rushing in the pits after a diff oil change, for instance...
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #159
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I saw the WRC website now mentions that the car won the GLC this year - but no mention of the pilot's name, and a pic of some European podium....no love for the NA distributor
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:45 PM   #160
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Ned - On the Dues one end of the dogbones has the pin ground down very slightly to fit inside the hub bearings - it is very easy to not notice it at first, as the difference in the pin length between the two ends is slight. I don't know if the Evos had these shortened pins on one end, although I would have thoughts so as I believe that is a common part between the two cars.

Good idea on the silicone to hold the dogbone on the diff end - without something to hold the dogbone up straight it is a real pain in the ass to get the pins and slots to line up, especially when you're rushing in the pits after a diff oil change, for instance...
Good point. I thought I tried the bones both ways but may not have... I can check next time I take it apart. If they are different, it is a good mod so when you are "in a rush" you don't have to wonder what end is going where! I was going to mark mine with paint to help.

An interesting thing I noticed on the kit is that "EVO" is nowhere to be found! The box says "GT DUE 013" and paperwork says "GT DUE 2013". The stickers are probably left overs from the older car as there is no mention of EVO or 2013 on them. ???
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:53 PM   #161
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On the Due you can use an optional carbon fiber chassis stiffener plate, GT115 is the part number. It goes from the front two standoffs that mount the front of the radio tray, and uses an unused hole just ahead of the tray, to stiffen the chassis at that point. It is where the chassis would have the most potential to flex, since everything forward of and behind that point is tied to other things. With the centered servo on the Evo I don't know if this part would work. If you end up with an unused countersunk hole in your chassis after the car is assembled, slightly in front of the radio tray standoffs, that is it's purpose - to mount the stiffener.
Gary,
There is an "extra" hole as you describe but it is not counter sunk and lines up with the servo saver. I don't know if there is room for the stiffener or not but it may fit.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:24 PM   #162
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No way that I can see to adjust anything as far as the chassis stiffness. (If you want to adjust stuff, my I suggest you run 4wd open! )

Front arms are adjustable for camber and castor (also toe). No tweak adjustment, front or rear. The front is full floating. (See link I sent last night-translate with google or bing. It is mentioned in there.)

I believe Jason is racing in Florida. but here is the link to the pulley on his site. Looking thru the parts for both the 12 and 13 cars may help, Many are the same.

http://www.irwinrc.com/product-p/00187.htm

Good luck,
Ned
30 bux for one pulley??... These must be the Capricorn
of the pan world...
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:38 PM   #163
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30 bux for one pulley??... These must be the Capricorn
of the pan world...
Can you make one for less? (I can't!) Should last the life of the car...

Seriously tho, the parts are expensive...
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #164
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Can you make one for less? (I can't!) Should last the life of the car...

Seriously tho, the parts are expensive...
It's simply the economics of being a low volume car. If the parts were made in the quantities you'd see in, say, 1/8th offroad buggy the parts would probably be at least a third less if not more. Also depends on whether WRC sources parts domestically, or if they are made in China/Taiwan.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:05 PM   #165
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Can you make one for less? (I can't!) ...
.yes you can you machinist master..
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