Clutch bell binding
#1
Clutch bell binding
I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
#2
I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
#3
You don't want to eliminate ALL play. It will need a small amount to keep it from binding.
#4
You are adding 5mm of shims under the inner bearing???... Shouldnt
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
#5
e.g. remove all shims, assemble clutch w/o shims. take a endplay reading. Reading maybe 1.75mm. Get shims that would add up to 1.25mm. and install to the main shaft bearing. your endplay will be .5mmmm. Remember end play max is 1.0mm. Endplay could be set at .025mm possible.
TS only need to set the rirght amount of shims under the inner bearing so it will leave a little bit of play.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wjogF57xpo
#6
I have a 2012 NT1 and I set the clutch gap to .5, after I set the gap and shim under the big bearing to get rid of end play the bell will not spin freely no matter what I do.
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
After adding close to 5mm shims I obviously say something's wrong I shouldn't have to add that many. The only thing I haven't done yet is change the collet before the flywheel.
Any suggestions? I know how to set the gap and install a clutch so that's not needed, just why would it not spin freely when it's brand new out of the box
Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .
Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.
The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
#7
The crankshaft tip is too short.
Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .
Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.
The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .
Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.
The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
#9
You are adding 5mm of shims under the inner bearing???... Shouldnt
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
need anywhere near that much... fo you mean 5 mm or. .5 mm?? Sounds
like u are binding the bell/bearings when you tighten your hex...
Loose all the shims under the big bearing then check your back
and forth of the bell...
#10
The crankshaft tip is too short.
Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .
Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.
The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
Perhaps because you use long version collet ? .... There are two types of collet, short for 1/10 , and long for 1/8. Check your collet for length .
Perhaps because you use thicker shim before the collet on the crankshaft ? ...... 1mm thick shim installed before the collet will reduce the crankshaft tip become shorter by 1mm , therefore you have this binding problem.
The thrust bearing stopper from mugen seiki is longer than xray.
#11
The problem I'm having is when I set the .5mm gap the bell is pressed up against the shoe and there is no end play. Sorry guys I explained it wrong in my first post.
#12
My radio is still out being repaired but hopefully will be back before the weekend. I'm planning on going if my radios back by then
#13
Joe..
With the bottom bearing removed assemble clutch and take the gap betwen the thrust bearing retainer and the bell. It should be around .5mm, shim thrustbearing retainer until it is .5mm. If you cant achieve this, the collette is too long. Otherwise, disassemble and insert the bottom bearing, re-assemble. If the clutch binds then the bottom bearing is too large or the clutch spring retainer is protruding onto the bearing.
With the bottom bearing removed assemble clutch and take the gap betwen the thrust bearing retainer and the bell. It should be around .5mm, shim thrustbearing retainer until it is .5mm. If you cant achieve this, the collette is too long. Otherwise, disassemble and insert the bottom bearing, re-assemble. If the clutch binds then the bottom bearing is too large or the clutch spring retainer is protruding onto the bearing.
#14
Then you do not have a .5mm gap. Gap is the distance between the shoe and the clutch bell. If it's binding on the shoe with no shims them you're gap is zero and you need either a different collet or a longer thrust bearing retainer such as the mugen one mentioned earlier.
#15
Check thrust brg, inner and outer race has different diameters.