Engine Issues
08-19-2002, 11:29 PM
#16
I'm not sure. It sounds like something may not be quite right.
I did this with a used 1/8th scale car (came with motor, etc.) and I had to do some rebuilding.
When I shimmed the car, I used some brass electric motor shims because they fit INSIDE the race of the bearing and spaced out the shaft enough so that the nut didn't push the bearing any farther than it wanted to go.
If you have any slack on it, it's going to work its way loose, locktite or no.
Does this make sense?
Your shaft and the washer/screw combo needs to sit flush, and not bind on the bearing's inner race. There shouldn't be any slop (maybe .01").
Brass electric motor shims worked perfectly for me, they fit inside the bearing's race. . .
Anyway, tell me if I am sounding like I am insane or something. . .
I did this with a used 1/8th scale car (came with motor, etc.) and I had to do some rebuilding.
When I shimmed the car, I used some brass electric motor shims because they fit INSIDE the race of the bearing and spaced out the shaft enough so that the nut didn't push the bearing any farther than it wanted to go.
If you have any slack on it, it's going to work its way loose, locktite or no.
Does this make sense?
Your shaft and the washer/screw combo needs to sit flush, and not bind on the bearing's inner race. There shouldn't be any slop (maybe .01").
Brass electric motor shims worked perfectly for me, they fit inside the bearing's race. . .
Anyway, tell me if I am sounding like I am insane or something. . .
08-20-2002, 05:19 AM
#17
Acutally, I think I understand completely :S.Iwill look into this further and see what I can do.Maybe Ill try a new bearing as well.Ill keep in touch.Thanks again
08-23-2002, 12:46 PM
#18
Hey Boomer...I tried the electric motor shim and all seems well.I can tighten the crew completely and the bell is free.I have not driven it yet, though.Hopefully tomorrow . I havnt tried cutting the shoes or the spring, and at this time, dont see a need to....wont really know until I drive it again.I doubt Ill have to though.
. I havnt tried cutting the shoes or the spring, and at this time, dont see a need to....wont really know until I drive it again.I doubt Ill have to though.
08-23-2002, 02:24 PM
#19
COOL I'm glad I made sense and that it worked!!!
08-24-2002, 09:39 AM
#20
!!!!!!!AAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! !!!
.....I finally get this engine str8(I think
) and have a day off from work...and New England rains on me
Go Figure!!!!
O h well, always tomorrow
08-25-2002, 12:15 PM
#21
Ohhh happy dayyyy!!!....Ok, ran it today 'n all is well...still gotta complete break in, but i think imma do that at the track...thanks again guys, for all the help
08-25-2002, 12:30 PM
#22
We wanna know how it ran! 8)
08-25-2002, 12:39 PM
#23
Well, I ran 3 tanks through it today...it idled well, never stalled(unless I held the brakes too long),other wise it will sit and idle fine.I think my Raytek is calibrated incorrectly, though...as I checked the temp several times at around the 1/4 left fuel level...and it showed the engine pushing 280!!!I still have lots of smoke coming from the pipe though, at high throttle.I still have not run WOT yet...figure to wait a couple more tanks.Also, I dont know if it is shifting...both spurs do show wear, but it doesnt seem to be moving very fast...almost like the engine is winding, but not pushing it as fast as it should go.Might just be cause I was on an open lot.I dont know :S.I thought Id bring to my shop on tues and see what they say about both issues.
08-25-2002, 10:29 PM
#24
Good deal! Glad the motor runs good. 
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