MT12 RS12 RB12 and other engines tuning tips
10-02-2001, 12:24 PM
#3
ive noticed my MT12 runs a little HOT when i get down to about 1/8 of a gallon left. the fuel looks a little darker than it did when the bottle was new. had a hell of a time keeping it running last sunday.
i find that the low end it the hardest part to set correctly. and that if you pinch the fuel line and count the seconds it takes for the engine to rev up you can tune the low end alot better.
here is what i do. get the engine started, and rev the engien up pretty good a few times (clears the pipe) then back at idle i pinch the line goint from the tank to the carb. 2-3 seconds before the engine revs up is where it needs to be. then you set the top for speed or temp.
what happens is when you pinch off the fuel line you aloow only air to come in and if it takes 2-3 seconds before it revs up then the low end has loaded up this much fuel. as the fuel line is pinched the fuel in the engine leans out and the engine revs up.
if you engine is already set test this and tell us how it works. my MT12 was set a little fat from the factory at both top and bottom but very close to where it needed to be.
i find that the low end it the hardest part to set correctly. and that if you pinch the fuel line and count the seconds it takes for the engine to rev up you can tune the low end alot better.
here is what i do. get the engine started, and rev the engien up pretty good a few times (clears the pipe) then back at idle i pinch the line goint from the tank to the carb. 2-3 seconds before the engine revs up is where it needs to be. then you set the top for speed or temp.
what happens is when you pinch off the fuel line you aloow only air to come in and if it takes 2-3 seconds before it revs up then the low end has loaded up this much fuel. as the fuel line is pinched the fuel in the engine leans out and the engine revs up.
if you engine is already set test this and tell us how it works. my MT12 was set a little fat from the factory at both top and bottom but very close to where it needed to be.
10-02-2001, 06:34 PM
#4
Rusting ?????Have you ever used afterrun oil????? Marvel Mystery oil???????
10-02-2001, 07:53 PM
#5
i dont use that stuff either. im sure my engine is pretty trashed inside also. i leave mine in my car somtimes for a week
10-02-2001, 08:00 PM
#6
I keep mine like a well oiled machine nice and smooth.
10-02-2001, 08:56 PM
#7
regarding rust in a engine.
anyone experienced a engine becoming rusty during break in??
i have a rb c12 non pull non turbo that started rusting on the 6th tank during idling.
i opened up the engine at the end of the day 'cuz i had to go to work, ready to put after run in and found my stock rb plug was caked with rust.
before you break in a engine it is wise to at least take the sleave out and wash the engine with metho + wd 40 to get any crap out. we shouldn't have to do this but unfortunatly quality control with rb novarossi, rex, and all the other novarrossi engines sometimes aren't that good.
(i was lucky, the engine had no signs of being damaged)
anyone experienced a engine becoming rusty during break in??
i have a rb c12 non pull non turbo that started rusting on the 6th tank during idling.
i opened up the engine at the end of the day 'cuz i had to go to work, ready to put after run in and found my stock rb plug was caked with rust.
before you break in a engine it is wise to at least take the sleave out and wash the engine with metho + wd 40 to get any crap out. we shouldn't have to do this but unfortunatly quality control with rb novarossi, rex, and all the other novarrossi engines sometimes aren't that good.
(i was lucky, the engine had no signs of being damaged)
10-03-2001, 01:54 AM
#8
humm...i dunno...i didnt open the engine up after a few weeks i bought the thing, and i notice that its a bit rusted inside....not a lot!, i tried to brush it off with a worn out toothbrush but didnt work, so i gave up and left it...i always used after run oil on my car...some times i use to much that it leaks through the bearings
another problem is that im having a hard time keeping the engine running for a full tank! it always dies half way!! i already richen up the engine a lot, but its still running hot....im not sure if its not rich enough
another problem is that im having a hard time keeping the engine running for a full tank! it always dies half way!! i already richen up the engine a lot, but its still running hot....im not sure if its not rich enough
10-03-2001, 02:46 AM
#9
Originally posted by ozzyNEOdriver
regarding rust in a engine.
anyone experienced a engine becoming rusty during break in??
i have a rb c12 non pull non turbo that started rusting on the 6th tank during idling.
i opened up the engine at the end of the day 'cuz i had to go to work, ready to put after run in and found my stock rb plug was caked with rust.
before you break in a engine it is wise to at least take the sleave out and wash the engine with metho + wd 40 to get any crap out. we shouldn't have to do this but unfortunatly quality control with rb novarossi, rex, and all the other novarrossi engines sometimes aren't that good.
(i was lucky, the engine had no signs of being damaged)
regarding rust in a engine.
anyone experienced a engine becoming rusty during break in??
i have a rb c12 non pull non turbo that started rusting on the 6th tank during idling.
i opened up the engine at the end of the day 'cuz i had to go to work, ready to put after run in and found my stock rb plug was caked with rust.
before you break in a engine it is wise to at least take the sleave out and wash the engine with metho + wd 40 to get any crap out. we shouldn't have to do this but unfortunatly quality control with rb novarossi, rex, and all the other novarrossi engines sometimes aren't that good.
(i was lucky, the engine had no signs of being damaged)
10-03-2001, 03:01 AM
#10
Originally posted by Manticore
dont ever use any kind of alcohol to wash your engine as it attracks water and moist. You engine will get rust pretty soon after you wash it with alcohol. Never use WD40 as it is corrosive. That's why you can remove a rusted screw with WD40.
dont ever use any kind of alcohol to wash your engine as it attracks water and moist. You engine will get rust pretty soon after you wash it with alcohol. Never use WD40 as it is corrosive. That's why you can remove a rusted screw with WD40.
10-03-2001, 03:33 AM
#11
Originally posted by Disaster999
then...you could remove the rust off the shaft, wash off the WD40 and re-lub the engine...right?
then...you could remove the rust off the shaft, wash off the WD40 and re-lub the engine...right?
10-03-2001, 05:39 AM
#12
wd 40 corrosive?
nah man wd40 isn't corrosive. it loosens screws becouse it is made of a silicone base type product. it's ok to clean the engine with metho just as long as you apply either a good soaking of wd40 or after run oil.
if you don't have afterrun at least use wd40. trust me it isn't corrosive.
to the person who has the engine that shuts of halfway through a tank this is for you;
i had the same problem when i was breaking in my rb. i reached the 6th tank idling and it began to switch of halfway through a tank. i leaned it i richened it nothing worked.
**it ended up being my plug was caked with rust. CHECK YOUR PLUG. at the smallest sign of stres on the wire, ie; a little burnt or whatever change it. even if it isn't ruined change it.**
get a plug that is suited to the temperature of the season and the nitro content.
ie; hot plug for 5% N or warn plug for 10% to 15% cold plug for 15% +Nitro.
if it is really cold and you are using high nitro go with a warm plug instead of cold. if it is hot go with a colder plug.
it's always safer to go with a colder plug if you are using high nitro. always keep a plug that is one higher and lower to the one you normally use.
for example i use rossi long thread plugs. i run 16% nitro and am using the ra cold (pink packet) it is currently approx 24 degrees celcius in oz. if it was a little colder, 18 degrees or less i'd go for a medium rossi plug (grey packet i think)
if you don't have afterrun at least use wd40. trust me it isn't corrosive.
to the person who has the engine that shuts of halfway through a tank this is for you;
i had the same problem when i was breaking in my rb. i reached the 6th tank idling and it began to switch of halfway through a tank. i leaned it i richened it nothing worked.
**it ended up being my plug was caked with rust. CHECK YOUR PLUG. at the smallest sign of stres on the wire, ie; a little burnt or whatever change it. even if it isn't ruined change it.**
get a plug that is suited to the temperature of the season and the nitro content.
ie; hot plug for 5% N or warn plug for 10% to 15% cold plug for 15% +Nitro.
if it is really cold and you are using high nitro go with a warm plug instead of cold. if it is hot go with a colder plug.
it's always safer to go with a colder plug if you are using high nitro. always keep a plug that is one higher and lower to the one you normally use.
for example i use rossi long thread plugs. i run 16% nitro and am using the ra cold (pink packet) it is currently approx 24 degrees celcius in oz. if it was a little colder, 18 degrees or less i'd go for a medium rossi plug (grey packet i think)
10-03-2001, 05:45 AM
#13
Re: wd 40 corrosive?
Originally posted by ozzyNEOdriver
nah man wd40 isn't corrosive. it loosens screws becouse it is made of a silicone base type product. it's ok to clean the engine with metho just as long as you apply either a good soaking of wd40 or after run oil.
if you don't have afterrun at least use wd40. trust me it isn't corrosive.
to the person who has the engine that shuts of halfway through a tank this is for you;
i had the same problem when i was breaking in my rb. i reached the 6th tank idling and it began to switch of halfway through a tank. i leaned it i richened it nothing worked.
**it ended up being my plug was caked with rust. CHECK YOUR PLUG. at the smallest sign of stres on the wire, ie; a little burnt or whatever change it. even if it isn't ruined change it.**
get a plug that is suited to the temperature of the season and the nitro content.
ie; hot plug for 5% N or warn plug for 10% to 15% cold plug for 15% +Nitro.
if it is really cold and you are using high nitro go with a warm plug instead of cold. if it is hot go with a colder plug.
it's always safer to go with a colder plug if you are using high nitro. always keep a plug that is one higher and lower to the one you normally use.
for example i use rossi long thread plugs. i run 16% nitro and am using the ra cold (pink packet) it is currently approx 24 degrees celcius in oz. if it was a little colder, 18 degrees or less i'd go for a medium rossi plug (grey packet i think)
nah man wd40 isn't corrosive. it loosens screws becouse it is made of a silicone base type product. it's ok to clean the engine with metho just as long as you apply either a good soaking of wd40 or after run oil.
if you don't have afterrun at least use wd40. trust me it isn't corrosive.
to the person who has the engine that shuts of halfway through a tank this is for you;
i had the same problem when i was breaking in my rb. i reached the 6th tank idling and it began to switch of halfway through a tank. i leaned it i richened it nothing worked.
**it ended up being my plug was caked with rust. CHECK YOUR PLUG. at the smallest sign of stres on the wire, ie; a little burnt or whatever change it. even if it isn't ruined change it.**
get a plug that is suited to the temperature of the season and the nitro content.
ie; hot plug for 5% N or warn plug for 10% to 15% cold plug for 15% +Nitro.
if it is really cold and you are using high nitro go with a warm plug instead of cold. if it is hot go with a colder plug.
it's always safer to go with a colder plug if you are using high nitro. always keep a plug that is one higher and lower to the one you normally use.
for example i use rossi long thread plugs. i run 16% nitro and am using the ra cold (pink packet) it is currently approx 24 degrees celcius in oz. if it was a little colder, 18 degrees or less i'd go for a medium rossi plug (grey packet i think)
If that is the case WD40 is silicon based and you wash your engine with WD40, you will have problem. Silicon under electric spark will become hard glass !!!!! You know what will happen next !!
10-03-2001, 05:46 AM
#14
Originally posted by Disaster999
humm...i dunno...i didnt open the engine up after a few weeks i bought the thing, and i notice that its a bit rusted inside....
humm...i dunno...i didnt open the engine up after a few weeks i bought the thing, and i notice that its a bit rusted inside....
10-03-2001, 05:50 AM
#15
Re: Re: wd 40 corrosive?
Originally posted by Manticore
Silicon based? I have never heard of that!!!!
If that is the case WD40 is silicon based and you wash your engine with WD40, you will have problem. Silicon under electric spark will become hard glass !!!!! You know what will happen next !!
Silicon based? I have never heard of that!!!!
If that is the case WD40 is silicon based and you wash your engine with WD40, you will have problem. Silicon under electric spark will become hard glass !!!!! You know what will happen next !!
ohh oww, i wasn't too sure about the wd40 being corrosive 
hmm maybe you are right. how about 3 in 1 oil? it is available in k mart. i live in oz and my local hobbyshop sells out of afterrun oil so i ushually use this 3 in 1 stuff.
i'll check the can.....
