LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

whats everyones thoughts on the aero front bumpers and rear diffusers that they sell, gimmick or work?

JBSpeed

Hey guys,
Back into 1/8th after a 16 year absence (last race was mendip with a serpent 6000 sprint!) and now back building a viper 35th Anniversary edition. How things have changed, crazy beautiful bit of kit. Quick question, thread lock. It's a lot of bolts into aluminium, does anyone use a little thread lock to keep all the bits hanging together, or does this make pulling the thing apart a 'mare.

Started the build, no thread lock so far, so interested in options!

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

threadlock yes blue removable or small screw some have a habit of loosening up have fun

Houmb

In my opinion you dont need it on the 4mm bolts under the chassis, they get real stuck. I use blue loctite on the smaller bolts.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

+1 definitely not on the chassis screws! There is only very few places need locktite on the car to be honest. Just the smaller screws that are Alu to Alu and perhaps the set screws on the 2sp shaft pulley. The only screw I've had come loose on the car was the 2sp shaft pulley never had an issue elsewhere on the car. Welcome back!! I'm local to Mendip so I'm sure I'll see you around.

Who

iTrader: (1)

I use very little locktite. Only on the steering linkage and where there is and plastic to steel. Re: servo saver and throttle linkage. Also on the shock shafts to hold the Pistons on. Get yourself a good 2mm and 2.5mm. And you'll be in good shape. Locktite will give you many headaches. You will be slotting stuck screws with the Dremel cutoff wheel and using a flat head to remove them.

I do belive the instructions have the recommended spots to use locktite with a small blue drop to indicate use

Welcome back !! Enjoy the build

Don

Houmb

The only thing that have come loose for me is the rear camber link, where its mounted on the carbon tower. A drop of loctite solved the problem.

djiewie

locktite can be a pain in the .... when trying to loosen the screw. I tip can be to heat the screw wich will softhen the blue locktite.

Hope this helps. Have fun

pranash07

Sorry to hijack the convo,
I have some credit with a hobby shop so i will be converting my 977WC to a 977EVO,

I have the ffg parts to complete the conversion:

SER903623 - Serpent Aluminum Lower Flex Mount
SER903624 - Serpent Carbon Lower Chassis Brace
SER903625 - Serpent Carbon Tank Fix Plate
SER903622 - Serpent Top Flex Mount
SER903621 - Serpent Carbon Radioplate
SER903620 - Serpent 5mm Aluminum 977 EVO Chassis
SER903379 - Serpent Areo Bumper

anything missing?

Thanks

Houmb

What about the new gearbox?

pranash07

don't really need the SL8 XLI,I'm happy with my current gearbox for now,till i see the need i would be really happy to spend 80bucks on a XLI.

for now i just want to upgrade the chassis.

Rick Davis

The front upper arm mounts are different in that the ear that connected the split radio tray is gone - nothing that can't be modified with a dremel.

pranash07

the radio tray(radioplate) is one solid piece,SER903621 - Serpent Carbon Radioplate
there is no more split radio tray.

LKracer

iTrader: (175)

anyone need a starterbox?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...n-mrx-etc.html

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...reat-deal.html

Parts lot for a great price