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Old 04-19-2014, 11:44 AM   #511
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Thanks guys
Was having too much brake lowered the throw and feels better now
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:51 PM   #512
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yes sir
breaking loose at the back
Depending on droop setting and surface prep and or roughness it may help to add some droop to let the arms travel down further on weight transfer under braking.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:29 PM   #513
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Depending on droop setting and surface prep and or roughness it may help to add some droop to let the arms travel down further on weight transfer under braking.
Actually, adding rear droop will make it worse. Allowing more weight to transfer to the front of the car will make the car more unstable under braking. Less rear droop will help stabilize the car during braking, but the downside is that you will loose steering on corner entry. Which is a commodity in 1/8 onroad. As someone suggested earlier, I would loosen the brake adjusting nut, and adjust the brake EPA on your radio. Adjust it as to give the maximum amount of brake without locking the tires.
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Old 04-20-2014, 04:23 AM   #514
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Depending on droop setting and surface prep and or roughness it may help to add some droop to let the arms travel down further on weight transfer under braking.
+1.

I like the idea of different brake disc. I will give that a try. I preferred the "feel" of brakes on older 966 version.
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Old 04-20-2014, 04:34 AM   #515
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Try... You will be surprised by the change of feeling and breaking sensation.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:54 PM   #516
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Camber bracket is different on the world's car. Anyone notice this? Why the change.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:14 PM   #517
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Camber bracket is different on the world's car. Anyone notice this? Why the change.
dont know why but I do realise it has changed!
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:08 PM   #518
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I noticed it on my friends car. My guess is that it creates more rotation, just a guess
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:13 AM   #519
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The rear bracket is changed because of 2 reasons.
1: from the 2 holes in the old bracket, only the outer holes were usable, the inner hole on the brake side, would bind the upper camber link.
now the holes are above each other, to be able to change the rear roll center, and camber rise.
2: As you can see, the middle part of the bracket, is made a bit higher, this is to prevent the T-bracket of the rear body mount (#903536) to come lose in case you flip the car on it's roof.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:45 AM   #520
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+1.

I like the idea of different brake disc. I will give that a try. I preferred the "feel" of brakes on older 966 version.
Try playing with the spring/fuel tubing next to the adjusting nut. Fuel tubing only (softer) makes the brakes super smooth. if you put a stiff spring (from 2sp) then you can brake harder but they can become sensitive. A combo (small piece of fuel tubing plus the spring) can give you an in between feel.
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:59 AM   #521
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Try playing with the spring/fuel tubing next to the adjusting nut. Fuel tubing only (softer) makes the brakes super smooth. if you put a stiff spring (from 2sp) then you can brake harder but they can become sensitive. A combo (small piece of fuel tubing plus the spring) can give you an in between feel.


I will try this set up
Thanks

Can I use a Kappo GT or an Ison in this car?
Any thoughts? I assume it will be good in a tight small track which we have down here
Thanks
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:19 AM   #522
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either will fit but neither really have the right power band for 1/8th circuit. I would suggest the Novarossi Kangaroo engine if your on a budget. Still a brilliant 7 port engine at a very affordable price.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:47 PM   #523
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The Nova PTS is a very fast motor, and they can be had for a really good price right now. I'd get that.

http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...&cat=80&page=1
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:01 AM   #524
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Quote:
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Serpent still lists the molded pinion wrench , part number 909590 , guess mine might be 10 years old and still works just fine.
Thanks for the info!

However, Can't seem to find availability anywhere for P/N 909590, + this part needs to used with 909593, which is also difficult to find.

Can anyone confirm what they are using to remove the pinions from their bells?
Can anyone confirm whether the Mugen tool will work? Tried the Kyosho ones and they don't fit.

Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:14 AM   #525
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Thanks for the info!

However, Can't seem to find availability anywhere for P/N 909590, + this part needs to used with 909593, which is also difficult to find.

Can anyone confirm what they are using to remove the pinions from their bells?
Can anyone confirm whether the Mugen tool will work? Tried the Kyosho ones and they don't fit.

Thanks!
I use the Mugen tool on my sedan (747) bell. Not a perfect fit but does the job. I never tried this tool on the 1/8 Serpent bell.

Hope this helps

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