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Old 08-20-2013, 03:05 PM   #391
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I have put on a 6mm one now and it seems to work fine. Thank you guys for helping me out

Now I have some issues with the clutch that came with the kit. I have used an old centax from a Vector 98 spec on my test engine. That worked very good.

I tried to install the new one on my 2nd engine and found out that the car just stood still. It seems like it just slips and is not engaging. I took off the clutch bell and the clutch shoe had some marks on it, slightly black "burnt".

When I assembled it I had to use so many shims to get the first gap between 0,5 and 0,8. It ended up on 0,6. Even the end play when I screw on the bell is a bit too much.


What can I have done wrong?
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:00 PM   #392
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Originally Posted by perA View Post

Now I have some issues with the clutch that came with the kit. I have used an old centax from a Vector 98 spec on my test engine. That worked very good.

I tried to install the new one on my 2nd engine and found out that the car just stood still. It seems like it just slips and is not engaging. I took off the clutch bell and the clutch shoe had some marks on it, slightly black "burnt".

When I assembled it I had to use so many shims to get the first gap between 0,5 and 0,8. It ended up on 0,6. Even the end play when I screw on the bell is a bit too much.


What can I have done wrong?
Hi! I do not own a 977 but from what I read, other than the tension spring might be too tight, it seems that if you shimmed behind the cone it would help. You would need less shims to get the proper clutch gap and less shims to get an appropriate end-play as well. You can start with 0.5mm thickness then try thicker all the way up to 1mm thickness if 0.5mm is not enough. Just make sure the shims you use for that purpose are not wider than the inner ring of the front bearing of the engine (otherwise I believe it will induce unnecessary heat from being too close to the bearing seal)
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Last edited by Joe Kimble; 08-20-2013 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:14 PM   #393
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Originally Posted by perA View Post
I have put on a 6mm one now and it seems to work fine. Thank you guys for helping me out

Now I have some issues with the clutch that came with the kit. I have used an old centax from a Vector 98 spec on my test engine. That worked very good.

I tried to install the new one on my 2nd engine and found out that the car just stood still. It seems like it just slips and is not engaging. I took off the clutch bell and the clutch shoe had some marks on it, slightly black "burnt".

When I assembled it I had to use so many shims to get the first gap between 0,5 and 0,8. It ended up on 0,6. Even the end play when I screw on the bell is a bit too much.


What can I have done wrong?
Pictures please! There shouldn't be any problems with the centax if its put together correctly
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:15 AM   #394
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What can I have done wrong?
1st thing which comes to my mind, is to check the flyweights, maybe you put them in like you are used to with the old type of centax, but you should put them in with the chamfered side facing the pressure plate, and not facing the flywheel. (Have seen this error before), and they should be put "leading" on the pins, not "trailing"

2nd, in the manual it's stated to fully screw in the adjustment nut, and then unscrew 1.5 turn. On a new clutch, you might need to unscrew the nut more, even up to 3 turns. When the clutch loosens up, 1.5 to 2 turns is correct.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:17 PM   #395
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2nd, in the manual it's stated to fully screw in the adjustment nut, and then unscrew 1.5 turn. On a new clutch, you might need to unscrew the nut more, even up to 3 turns. When the clutch loosens up, 1.5 to 2 turns is correct.
I have unscrewed the nut now, going to try it tomorrow on the track. Are there a good tool for adjusting the clutch when the engine sits in the car?
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:14 AM   #396
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a good tool for adjusting the clutch when the engine sits in the car?
http://serpent.com/product/909598
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:09 AM   #397
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #398
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Still got issues with the clutch. Now the car takes off but when I try to fully open the throttle on the straights it goes up to certain revs then stop there, not near the revs it should go up to. And the speed is very slow. Maybe it's something wrong with the engine instead...

Another question on another topic, is the springs that comes with the kit short or long? Can both short and long springs be used front and rear?
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:15 AM   #399
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Still got issues with the clutch. Now the car takes off but when I try to fully open the throttle on the straights it goes up to certain revs then stop there, not near the revs it should go up to. And the speed is very slow. Maybe it's something wrong with the engine instead...

Another question on another topic, is the springs that comes with the kit short or long? Can both short and long springs be used front and rear?
Kits come with long Pink coded rears and shorter Purple coded fronts , I've used short springs on the rear on a 966 before experimenting but never tried longs on the front (not sure if they would fit or not) haven't tried those combinations on the Viper - keep coming back to the darn kit springs
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:53 AM   #400
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Still got issues with the clutch. Now the car takes off but when I try to fully open the throttle on the straights it goes up to certain revs then stop there, not near the revs it should go up to. And the speed is very slow. Maybe it's something wrong with the engine instead...

Another question on another topic, is the springs that comes with the kit short or long? Can both short and long springs be used front and rear?
Really difficult to help you now, is it possible to get some local help?
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:54 AM   #401
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Really difficult to help you now, is it possible to get some local help?
Is it possible that he's attributing the issue to clutch when in reality he may have the motor set rich and not shifting ??
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:24 AM   #402
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Is it possible that he's attributing the issue to clutch when in reality he may have the motor set rich and not shifting ??
Yes, your right, it certainly looks like that, but we really have to hear it to give advise...
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #403
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977 takes TQ and win at the opening round of the FORGASS series. Congrats Paolo
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:55 AM   #404
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogMc7...ature=youtu.be

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Old 09-20-2013, 07:36 PM   #405
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Default Side to Side play of rear doggones (considered normal)

Hey guys, got a question.

So I just purchased a pre assembled 977 off ebay listed as new. As I was overlooking the roller, it definitely looked new, however I noticed both of the rear dogbones had a lot of (side to side) play. I also noticed that the diff shaft (I think thats what its called) that both dog bones fit into (center) was brown on one side and silver on the other? Is this normal, or should I suspect some tampering, or someone trying to unload a defective product. When I inquired the seller, he said its normal that dog bones have play in 1/8 and 1/10 onroad cars and to mend it easily by putting a piece of fuel line between the tip of the dogbone and shaft. I'm skeptical! All replies are encouraged and appreciated.
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