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Old 05-08-2013, 06:44 AM   #271
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Originally Posted by Paulie Bee View Post
You are both correct and not missing anything. The longer new version 977 ball cups or the older 966 long ball-ends work fine to get a lower downstop setting.
What do you mean the longer new version 977 ball cups works fine? it's either the ball cup or the shock shafts needs to be longer or else it can't achive 8 droop!
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:15 AM   #272
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My viper 977 has exactly the same problem. Could anyone tell me how to fix it? Thanks!
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:02 AM   #273
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My viper 977 has exactly the same problem. Could anyone tell me how to fix it? Thanks!
Just leave the ball ends further out on the shafts i.e. making the rears 11.75mm and the fronts 11mm worked for me. I've even co-opted a pair of last years rears for spares using front eyelets not sur eof the body to eyelet dimension but the overall length was good.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:25 PM   #274
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What do you mean the longer new version 977 ball cups works fine? it's either the ball cup or the shock shafts needs to be longer or else it can't achive 8 droop!
Exclamation point?

I've even tested a 6 and a 7 rear downstop with the stock 977 ball ends. Rick Davis' reply is 100% correct.

You don't have to screw the ball ends all the way in on any brand rc models on the shock shaft threads. As long as the ball end grabs the threading nicely then they're fine. They should be 1mm below the 3mm screw after you get your downstop set. You can unscrew a little at a time and show some threading until the desired length is achieved. If showing some thread is annoying you, try the 966 ball ends which seem to have a longer neck so maybe better? I didn't try them but you could also attempt to use them instead. The new 977 spring cup holder should be fine even with the 966 long shock ball ends.

Just try this... no stress.

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Old 05-08-2013, 05:59 PM   #275
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Sorry, I didn't mean to create a negative subject. I was trying to help by giving a tech tip without trying to be a know it all. I went back and read my original post and realize that it looks like I was asking for help. Thanks for the reply's Paulie and Rick. Both of you have built and raced many Serpent Kits and your knowledge is valuable and very important to these threads. Good luck to everyone racing the 977 this year! It' been a fun kit to build and I'm looking forward to racing it this year.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:42 PM   #276
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I've even co-opted a pair of last years rears for spares using front eyelets not sur eof the body to eyelet dimension but the overall length was good.
Yes, I did exactly that, the long bodied rear shocks from my old 966 TE V1 with short shock shaft and short ball end.

I've had the ball end pop out from the shock shaft when I left them half threaded in on the original 977 shock shaft. Perhaps Serpent could make slightly longer rear shock shafts to allow for easier adjustability of rear arm droop (I know it's always cost vs. what one can get away with ...)

Tried the longer shock RCM shaft from the 966 but they turned out to be too long.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:36 AM   #277
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I think RCM Shock shaft should be longer for the working piston in the middle of the shock body. Currently working on the lower end.
I'm thinking of using RCM Shock Shaft Long (160103). Do you know the difference in length between RCM Shock Shaft Long (160102) and RCM Shock Shaft Long (160103)?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:41 AM   #278
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I'm thinking of using RCM Shock Shaft Long (160103). Do you know the difference in length between RCM Shock Shaft Long (160102) and RCM Shock Shaft Long (160103)?
Tried, too long. The piston might tear the diaphram at full suspension compression
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:24 AM   #279
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Moving to another topic, I see some drivers use an oil filter between the tank and the carb, but some drivers don't use it (I'd say most pics of the pro's cars don't use it).

Any reason why NOT to use one? I heard something about using it provides more "even flow" of nitro to the carb during certain seasons (or this is mere snake oil tomfoolery BS that's being whipped up?). Any one have any opinions on this?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:46 PM   #280
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Moving to another topic, I see some drivers use an oil filter between the tank and the carb, but some drivers don't use it (I'd say most pics of the pro's cars don't use it).

Any reason why NOT to use one? I heard something about using it provides more "even flow" of nitro to the carb during certain seasons (or this is mere snake oil tomfoolery BS that's being whipped up?). Any one have any opinions on this?
If you use good quality fuel and follow reasonable pit procedures regarding cleanliness I think the filter in the tank is more than sufficient and I'd rather not introduce two more connections into the system.
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:05 AM   #281
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The only reason I can think of for using an filter, or even only a filter body, between tank and carb, is the extra fuel you have, in case the car flips over. To have enough time to put it on its wheels again.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:49 AM   #282
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And the filter body between the tank and the pipe? What is the reason?
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:15 AM   #283
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And the filter body between the tank and the pipe? What is the reason?
Guess you're referencing the cooling chamber - it's an attempt to get some of the exhaust temp reduced on it's way to the tank , also the extra volume in the system seems to make the pressure more consistent.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:43 PM   #284
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Default 903594 28T option alu pulley

Guys/Gals, I am building my beautiful 977, and decided to install option parts during build. However, the 2.5x8 screws used for orig plastic front pulley are too long for option part. Has anyone else run into this problem? Normally I would just grab a shorter screw, but these are those pesky 2.5 screws...which of course I dont have any. Just putting out there before I whip out the dremel...
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:30 PM   #285
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Default Alum One Way pulley screws

Cut off 2mm on the three stock screws and check it. It might need a little more than 2mm.
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Last edited by Paulie Bee; 05-14-2013 at 03:56 PM.
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