Are you dissapointed with your ntc3 ?
03-26-2005, 09:05 AM
#31
Registered User
A BMI chassis, V2 rear suspension and stay off the boards and most of your NTC3 problems will go away. You guys say theres not enough flex??? I feel theres way to much flex with the stock setup. The BMI has very little if any flex, and with the chassis most all our problems went away. If Ae just could make some diff gears that would hold up to a oneway and a spool I would be very happy. Some weekends we use 2 or 3 sets of gears in the diff, High HP engines just rip the shit out of them!!
Danny: why don't you experiment with making some diff ring and pinions out of bronse or something. Even change the pitch if you have too, and also make a few that are 1 tooth less on the pinion, for the guys who cry no top end speed.
I got a machinist buddy working on them but he's very slow and in no hurry, its time now to start racing here!
Not to many screws here for sure!!
Danny: why don't you experiment with making some diff ring and pinions out of bronse or something. Even change the pitch if you have too, and also make a few that are 1 tooth less on the pinion, for the guys who cry no top end speed.
I got a machinist buddy working on them but he's very slow and in no hurry, its time now to start racing here!
Not to many screws here for sure!!
03-26-2005, 09:26 AM
#32
Nice ride!
Thats one sexy looking car....
Thats one sexy looking car....
03-26-2005, 09:37 AM
#33
Registered User
Thanks pheyhoe!! Alot of time and $$$ has went into this car to make it as bullett proof as possible.
03-26-2005, 03:44 PM
#34
Gears!
[i]Originally posted by bbntc3
Danny: why don't you experiment with making some diff ring and pinions out of bronse or something. Even change the pitch if you have too, and also make a few that are 1 tooth less on the pinion, for the guys who cry no top end speed.
I got a machinist buddy working on them but he's very slow and in no hurry, its time now to start racing here!
Not to many screws here for sure!! [/B]
Danny: why don't you experiment with making some diff ring and pinions out of bronse or something. Even change the pitch if you have too, and also make a few that are 1 tooth less on the pinion, for the guys who cry no top end speed.
I got a machinist buddy working on them but he's very slow and in no hurry, its time now to start racing here!
Not to many screws here for sure!! [/B]
03-27-2005, 07:19 PM
#35
Registered User
Thanks Danny! I'm painting up the last Hellion body now I'll shoot you some pics when I get it done.
We did tallk alittle about the cases last year, I think its in the gears not the cases flexing. I use the fix on the front and it has to screws that mount the diff to the chassis which goes through both case halves and then bolts the tower pretty much solid to the case, with these 2 screws I don't think the cases can flex that much, well at least theres less flex on the ring gear.. If you do decide to work on the gears, make some stock gearing for starters, if they work then maybe 1 tooth higher and lower on the pinion.
We did tallk alittle about the cases last year, I think its in the gears not the cases flexing. I use the fix on the front and it has to screws that mount the diff to the chassis which goes through both case halves and then bolts the tower pretty much solid to the case, with these 2 screws I don't think the cases can flex that much, well at least theres less flex on the ring gear.. If you do decide to work on the gears, make some stock gearing for starters, if they work then maybe 1 tooth higher and lower on the pinion.
03-27-2005, 09:25 PM
#36
U got it!
I just havent had time to go pick up my NTC but I will soon and see what is up with the gears. The NEXT time you strip a pair please keep them and send them to me !!! My real race car had a guick change in it and I thought to my self Hmmmm
Do you need a new body the latest ones have incredible down force
Do you need a new body the latest ones have incredible down force
03-28-2005, 05:23 PM
#37
Registered User
I'm gonna need a body or 2 soon I'm sure. The newest bodies have more down force then the ones I got in Sept??
The ones I got had the latest new rear wing, if that's what you mean?
Man I got the foams for ya, even got them package and addressed. Just can't remember to send them!!! I'll get them out this week if I have time.
The ones I got had the latest new rear wing, if that's what you mean?
Man I got the foams for ya, even got them package and addressed. Just can't remember to send them!!! I'll get them out this week if I have time.
03-28-2005, 08:47 PM
#38
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
03-29-2005, 12:01 AM
#39
Originally posted by three50zx
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
brilliant!!!!
03-29-2005, 12:09 AM
#40
Ok!
Originally posted by three50zx
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
Invaison of the the MUGC3
03-29-2005, 07:36 AM
#41
Originally posted by three50zx
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
First off want to say hi, as this is my first post on RC-Tech. Here are a few things that I did to make my NTC3 beefier.
Things that I’ve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Haven’t had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls I’ve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing “the fix” I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 ½ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.
The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion that’s why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.
03-29-2005, 07:40 AM
#42
and another
03-29-2005, 08:02 AM
#44
thanks Johnny boy, now get back to class. LOL
03-29-2005, 04:45 PM
#45
nice car.im wondering,cant u use the rear suspension eyelet and balls on the steering rack??can that help???