asw7576

Check these : you have tire rolling problem on starter box , right ?

clutch gap = the difference between clutchbell and clutch shoe. They should be very close but not yet touching. How to do it ? Use some shims before the inside clutchbell bearings. Keep adding shims until the clutchbell spin freely. <---- I think your problem is here

end play = the play on horizontal axis ( clutchbell axis movement towards thrust bearing ). The play should be kept minimum by adding shims between the thrust bearing and the thrust bearing locknut. Spin your clutchbell again at this point.

Centax spring = Mugen Super Hard Silver or Kyosho Super Hard Black.

Centax spring tension = twist the centax spring locknut until 0.9mm deep. Not enough tension ( 0.5mm ) will engange the clutch too early.... causing a bogging effect ( lame acceleration ). Very high tension ( 1.2mm ) will cause your engine scream crazy while the car is not accelerating fast enough due to clutchbell slipage.

tancp81

iTrader: (1)

thanks 1st...
actually im very newbie at this machanical stuff, i not sure how does clutch , centax run / engage...(it also means that i dunno when to apply shims before bearing or after ) but it really solve the problem by removing n adding shims... i wonder why it will like that,is it too hot???...

thank again for ur reply n patient...

asw7576

here u go ....

Shims ? Get them from Tower Hobbies and search Tamiya shims.

Here my tips :

Always clean your engine after use....... even you stinks like hell, clean your engine as soon as you get back home. Use clean clothes, thick cotton buds and metal polish to clean engine internals. Take your time polishing engine parts. Spray with electric motor cleaners before assembling the parts again, and please use plenty of after run oil ( I recommend Mugen engine maintenance oil or Novarossi oil : clear type ) to put back the piston sleeve.

tancp81

iTrader: (1)

thanks for ur pic, will try n check...

asw7576

Sorrry......

this is final correction. ( I mistakenly typed end play for centax spring tension. The word end play should not been there ).

JayL

Clutch?

What do I do if I have removed all shims near the thrust and still can't quite get .3mm movement forward and back of the pinions? the book says go .3-.5
my spring is tightened to 9.5mm, "mike s setup" I have about 1mm spacers so the clutch bell spins free of the clutch shoe, and it only just does

thanks

Seisick

jay

beware, clutch gap is set by the shims in the outer bearing and the bearing stopper, the endplay is set with the shims between the clutch nut and the first inner bearing, so if your desire is to obtain a clutch gap say to 0.6mm and even without shims you can not get that amount, what you do is to install in the top of the cranksshaft a shim with diameter 3x4.8x0.1 or 0.2mm. in that way you could obtain the desired clutch gap. please do notice that the first thing you should do is to set the gap and then the endplay, the manaul on the 720 and the nt1 have great instructions on how to set the centax system

happy racing!

asw7576

Are you sure, you are not mixed them up ??

clutch gap is set by the shims in the outer bearing and the bearing stopper ?? ..... try yourself by putting shims between outer bearing and bearing stopper. The clutchbell still stick to clutchshoe.

the endplay is set with the shims between the clutch nut and the first inner bearing ?? ..... try yourself to put the shims between centax spring locknut and first inside bearing...... the clutchbell will move father apart from clutchshoe, right ? .... Is this the best definition for end play ? or is it the proper explaination for clutch gap ?

Remember, sometimes the manual book editor could be wrong interpreting drawings into english definition, or simply just made wrong explainations completely ( like Xray did about anti dive vs pro dive definition in T1 ).

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

I am wondering about the different front uprights for the mtx4?
I have the TO138-b and TO164 which is the 2 degree upright.
I believe that the original ones are TO138.
My question is, if the TO138-B uprights were to fix the bump steer issue, are the new TO164 uprights to make it even better or is there a different reason for the 2 Degrees upright?
Cheers
Joe

wallyedmonds

to run the t0164 2º you need the t0151-b lower arm,it has better turn in
what it dose is shorten the upper link.

the t0138-B you need the lower arms too and it keeps the upper link the same as stock.

stock you get bump steer t0138

or you can say it makes more grip,your total setup matters,you can have more grip in the front but still push.

JayL

um, hmmm

guess I will check the nt1 and serpent 720 manuals

ShrekNZ

I understand the only change for the T0164 upright is that the steering arm is 4mm lower allowing you to use shims to change the bump steer. However this will be limited unless you also update the lower arms as the new arms are cut away to prevent fouling. You can probably still run the new uprights but have to shim them to 4mm and thus not get any change.
Currently we are using 2mm where the kit MTX4 is 1mm

We've found this to be quite a useful tuning tool although it still kinda go's against the grain - I used to muck around with Hot Rod's ans bump steer was a real no no and is caused by bad steering geometery.

wallyedmonds

the t0164-2º
the upper pillow ball part is set in 2º making the upper link shorter.
hence giving more front grip in theory.
i us this most of the time.

its not 2mm its 2º

wallyedmonds

i dont know what could be wrong with your clutch the only thing i can say is start from the start and see where you went wrong,and read mikes right up in rc x mag
http://xrcmag.idigitaledition.com/issue.php?issue=4

Loveless

Yo guys should i lock the front end of my car , some say it helps in breaking , some say it makes the car drive much more easier, which one is it, or is it both, orshould i just leave it alone?.