Minten

I'm just mounting my MTX-4R and I think that I saw the same problem with the steering rod/pivotball touching the upright. When I checked the instructions better I saw that I had forgot to put a small 1 mm washer between the pivotball and the upright.

With a washer in place everything is working like a charm again.

/Marcus

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

I took mine all apart and noticed that on one side it had the old style(mtx3) pivot ball retainer washer. It's not recessed like it is on the MTX4.

wallyedmonds

ya its a little different so it dosent move around and sits more snug on the ball

arr see car

iTrader: (13)

I did my droop today and want to clarify if I did it right as to TomB said in a earlier post.

Currently my droop setting are:
Front: +2
Rear: +4

Does this sound about right. Never played with the droop before.

Cheers

rizal_eg9

iTrader: (3)

Hi all.....

I got a question, i like to know what is the effect off adjusting the steering servo saver...the manual instruction said to adjust the spring to 1mm.....what effect do we have if we increase the spring pre-load....as i can see that my front tires is wobbling on a fast right left kink....

Cheers.

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

Increasing the preload will put more pressure on the servosaver so it doesnt "cam out" as easily. The effect is that it will fix you wheel wobble (if it is from the servosaver) but you must be careful because the servo saver is less effective. If you bang a board hard enough, it can bust your servo.

rizal_eg9

iTrader: (3)

thanx mate.....any tips on how to determine how much pre-load to add....any rules off thumb to follow???

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

Theres not any rules to follow but I just follow the manual. You can tighten it to your liking but run the risk of busting your servo if you're too tight.

asw7576

I tightened 2mm deep.

My servo is Sanwa ERG VX.

rizal_eg9

iTrader: (3)

that is what i'm planning to do.....just like the MTX3.....and my servo is VX.....but i have killed a VR servo on my MTX3 previously....

daveb

iTrader: (4)

I'm looking for a website for a good amount of setup suggestions. If you have a setup that works feel free to PM me. The track I race on is somewhat a tight track with low/med traction. I'm more interested in what type of diff to use in the front or oil wt. in F/R diffs? People at my track are supposedly running 3K-10kwt. fluid in the rear and 50k-60k in the front? Since I haven't seen many setups with a diff in the f/r I'm curious what others are using.

wallyedmonds

10.000 rear
20.000-30.000 front
but 20.000-30.000 in the rear and a 1way front is better
but if you like better breaking diffs are better.

va_connoisseur

I have finished the majority of the build, just need to put the motor clutch assembly in. Here's my question:

With the tires on, on a level surface, how far should the car roll it given a gentle push? Or better, should the car roll freely? My car seems 'tight'? but I went back through and nothing is binding that I can see. It's a MTX-4R if that helps. Thanks.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Check the brake disc. I found I had mine slightly set wrong and with everything off the car , belts and driveshafts. I was able to pinpoint its perfect rolling point while still keeping the pads close to the disc.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Hey guys I'm back. The move went well and I'm finally in my own apartment. Did I miss anything new for the MTX4? I hear there is a new RB R3 Rody coming out soon, a .12 motor, and wondering how will it stack up to the others on the market in price and power. My mugen hasn't been let out for a bit as there are more things important right now to be payed for, but when the time is right I'll slowly get few more option parts for my ride as well as try a new motor.