va_connoisseur

A.I. my condolenscene<sp> regarding your grandmother

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Is it small track and how is the grip? How is your weather. I had mugen usa admit to me that there is problems. He said the fix for him was the shoe adjustment. Because my r40 never had one problem in 2 years of racing. This can be taken just as opinion. Also if your not having trouble then dont report it. Those who are fed up with it. Ive given you the ability to contact those who can actually change this problem. It could be as simple as a redesign of the spurs. Heck you can continue to run the old ones if they work but those who are tired of replacing for new ones just to have those blow. I would then hope you send in an email to mugen japan. I did today and hope whoever is fed up with it does as well.

My mtx-4 was fine during club races on a small , lower grip track. Once I hit the big track with high grip. It was all over in 15 minutes.

JKA

iTrader: (4)

I've witnessed the exact same issues. I've only ran on a small medium bite track and my buddies and I never had spur gear issues. Then a friend went to cincy and stripped more second gears than one can imagine.

Oh... and thanks for the setup tips guys.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I don't even race this car anymore, and it still frustrates me that so many people have the gear problem while there were plenty (including myself) that never experienced the continual gear stripping issue.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I'm sorry about your grandmother AI. Be strong dude.

So far so good with still a bone stock MTX4. I will be investing in a faster throttle servo with a bit more torque like the Futaba 3305 or something along the line with good speed and torque. I still haven't stripped gears on the car yet, but I have warped the front universals the day after I installed them. It probably was due to the few whacks I encountered around the track, but regardless they are still useable - no way in hell I'm paying another $41 for a set unless I was a real hardcore racer. The next test will be installin the LW shoes and find the swauger spring. The OS runs awesome and so far no problem with it, which leads me itchin to get the Murnans TZ setup if I wanted more power and leaving the Carlsens to practice with. Being in the process of finding an apartment I won't purchase anymore parts as its best to save to cover the cost of moving and such. Hopefully if the spot isn't far I can just use my car to travel back and forth with the little I have or rent a Van. Also, I have plenty MTX4 stuff to cover me and this car is a tank compared to the R40 indeed! I still have yet to change the gear ratio also, but am going to try out other brands of foams since the ATS rims are kinda weak. They do have good longevity though...that or it's just my driving. Either going to give the Jacos or Twisters a try once I have some $$ aside for foams. BTW, the TM F8 bag was definately worth the $$ as now I have almost everything in there and can wheel it from the track to the car with ease! No more carrying a big duffle bag 60ft-70ft to the tracks!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Thanks. You can buy the shafts only there a tad bit cheaper.

vdh design

I recently raced at our nationals (NZ) and practiced/raced for four solid days on a huge track, 330m's long, and didn't blow a single spur gear. I reckon I did over 250 kilometres, and the spurs are still fresh. I love the car! I was using the steel pinions, made sure the 2 speed was close to the housing, and gave it a small amout of play in the mesh. Another thing I did was with the swaybar upper mounting point... I put the grubscrews in the bulkhead instead of the brackets, which raises the rear swaybar up heaps to keep it away from the 2-speed.

speed8081

What's the difference between the black brake pad (C0353) and blue brake pad (C0361) ? Which is better on the mtx4 ? Thanks

rocca30

stick with the black or yellow pads , keep the blue for the mbx5R.

twoo

blue is kind of between yellow and black. It has less bite than black but more than yellow. It does have more tendency to lock up just like the black though. Would not use it unless you are running a spool.

Seisick

weather always 80s and above all year round, traction insane since we use additive, medium size, but I've raced with the same spurs on a huge track, check it out, www.apercar.com in lima peru and no stripped spurs there, traction was ok but the wear was a differente story, on my track 45 shore is ok to use!
I have to admit that its a pain in the a... this situation, and for that I'll mention some tips, it would be nice if someone that has sgs problem, check my tips and see if they were helpful and hopefully will share what was his problem!
1 2 speed shoe space, I just take out the bell and space them 'til the shoes rub againts the hub, and then back 'til they are free, then reinstall the bell.
2 screws of the chasis brace and the radio tray tied enough! one screw loose on the radio tray and you'll eat your gears, period
3 replace the chasis engine screw for 3x10 and dremel the 3x12 of the back of the engine so they are now 3x10
4 0.10mm endplay on the shaft and the clutch bell, more endplay will prevent that the spurs are 100 percent in contact with the pinions on and off power, I use a 6x8x0.1 shim to adjust the endplay on the shaft
5 and the most important, alignment! vertical and horizontal and look at the mesh from the top bottom and side, and use only the 2 speed spur to align the mesh. make sure when you adjust that the piston is at the middle, since the crankshaft has some movement on the bell, grab the spur and try to move the pinion, it should have no movement at all, still very free when spinning
6 make sure the pinions are in good shape, i've used alum and steel and no problems, but they are both in good shape just like the tiny 5x8 bearings and the engine bearings also
7 check epa on the radio, too much and the th servo will cause flex for sure
8 drop some ca in the holes of the spurs screw holes and let dry; they will add extra security, I've seen how they become loose!
I can't remember more tips but i hope the will help someone with his problem.
don't know your centax settings but on my engine I had to use a 0.2shim behind the cone so my pinions are 100 in contact on and off power with the spurs
if any that found a fix on his kit from these tips, please share
happy racing

asw7576

Hohoho...... I just bought two F8 bags too. 1 for Electric and another 1 for Nitro.

Compartments are like Boeing 747's belly. Each bag carries all my spare parts and tires.

The problem : Need big SUV to carry it.

Ghett0

Its obvious the people who have had problems didn`t assemble the kit properly. Its not just the way you align the gears, it has to do with how the kit was assembled as a whole. IF your stripping gears, you most likley have some areas of the car that wernt assembled correctly. Because in the end where the engine meets the 2speed is the "heart of the car" due to the fact that the engine powers the car. A faulty diff \ breaks not adjusted correctly \ belts dont move freely \ the list is endless. All these things have alot to do with the gear stripping issue and what casues the gears to strip

chookgb

iTrader: (29)

your blanket comments that people have not built there cars correctly is rubbish i for one have had 20 years experience in the hobby and am more than capable of building my car correctly and i am still having gear stripping issues i have of course tried all of the points listed on this forum as well as others all of which have reduced the stripping problem but i am still having the odd gear stripping. so instead of blaming mtx-4 owners i tend to agree with other peoples sentiments we need to shift the blame towards mugen instead

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

My 2 cents...

1. MTX-4 owners in this forum have more problems with gear stripping than any other car. In other words, there are less complaints about gear stripping in the other car threads.

2. If you've never built a Mugen on-road nitro car before, it's possible that you didn't assemble something "correctly" because you just don't have the experience (i.e. didn't own a MTX-3 or other nitro car) and/or the instructions are just not clear enough.

3. Some people that strip their 2nd gear can identify the root cause of the problem and correct the situation. It may be obvious, it may not be obvious. IMO, if you're still having a problem, you may not have identified all the issues that are contributing to the problem.

4. Typical gear stripping explanations include: Worn gears, too big of a 2-speed shoe-to-housing gap, too loose of a gear mesh, bent 2-speed shaft, engine not parallel to the 2-speed shaft and something was binding up on something else. I haven't compiled the complete list of obvious problems, but I'm sure there are a few more. Question is, what isn't so obvious??

5. Some people never strip a gear or can explain away their problem. It's impossible for us to know how many people out of the entire MTX-4 population have "chronic gear stripping syndrome". 1 in 10? 1 in 100? 1 in 1000? Who knows?

I'll be the first to admit, if everything isn't "properly aligned, adjusted and functioning", you may strip 2nd gear - but that is true of all cars. Does the MTX-4 have a significantly smaller allowance for "margin of error" compared to the other cars? Perhaps.