Mugen MTX-4
04-02-2007, 08:44 AM
#8026
Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Whats up Francis?
I can not believe Rev is gone................BUMMER!!
Are you going to Vegas for the Mugen race?
I can not believe Rev is gone................BUMMER!!
Are you going to Vegas for the Mugen race?
No my next couple of races will be at CP raceway. Are you pulling a double
duty 1/8th sedan for the Vegas race?
04-02-2007, 08:45 AM
#8027
Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Are you using the 52 tooth 2nd gear?
Use the steel pinon for second gear and do not run the 52. Locktight all 8 engine mount screws. I have had much better luck after doing these three things.
Use the steel pinon for second gear and do not run the 52. Locktight all 8 engine mount screws. I have had much better luck after doing these three things.
Locktight is always a good idea.
04-02-2007, 08:55 AM
#8029
Originally Posted by Francis M.
I mesh my gears with both first gear and second and have not had a problem.
The main thing I do is to make sure the Exhaust is disconected so nothing is shifting the motor while I tighten the mesh.
Didn't you have a problem with your RRR shaft melting with the end screw that secures the spurs?
The main thing I do is to make sure the Exhaust is disconected so nothing is shifting the motor while I tighten the mesh.
Didn't you have a problem with your RRR shaft melting with the end screw that secures the spurs?
04-02-2007, 08:59 AM
#8030
Originally Posted by Francis M.
No my next couple of races will be at CP raceway. Are you pulling a double
duty 1/8th sedan for the Vegas race?
duty 1/8th sedan for the Vegas race?
Haven't run sedan for awhile. kind of looking forward to running my Ninja 12.
Who is running the races at CP? I bet CP attendance will pick up now. Hopefully they will have a couple of big races this yesr worth driving the 400 miles to attend.
Are you going to the sedan Nats in Porter this year? You should that place is awesome.
04-02-2007, 09:05 AM
#8031
principles of auto mechanics
Look out for a short video of my car running on the track next weekend, plus close up's of my car gearing on the starter box so you can see.
BTW I run my car every weekend when it’s not raining
I have replaced some gears over the year but not because they were strip but worn down over time.
I don’t think the Guy’s that take pride in doing they groundwork would invest hard earn money on a shelf queen. We all love our cars
I will tell you a short story I had a CD3 man I spent nuff money trying to make it work. After while I give up, but a local guy took some time out and thought me the principles of auto mechanics
After I while I learnt I got that CD 3 to run really well
So I got belt drive car the MTX 4. You mite say that’s CD 3 is shaft drive the point is not valid but I applied the same of auto mechanics tips that was given to me if you take your time in the build and do some testing then you will start to spot out what went wrong.
Tips
Check for slack
Shim were it’s needed
Make sure all measurement is equal on both sides of the car
Check for stress on some parts every thing should move freely.
Back to my setup for not stripping gears
Mono engine will help you brace the engine better adjusting your carb with your servo make sure your radio endplay don’t move the engine. Mesh the 2nd gear 1st and the rest is history.
BTW I run my car every weekend when it’s not raining
I have replaced some gears over the year but not because they were strip but worn down over time.
I don’t think the Guy’s that take pride in doing they groundwork would invest hard earn money on a shelf queen. We all love our cars
I will tell you a short story I had a CD3 man I spent nuff money trying to make it work. After while I give up, but a local guy took some time out and thought me the principles of auto mechanics
After I while I learnt I got that CD 3 to run really well
So I got belt drive car the MTX 4. You mite say that’s CD 3 is shaft drive the point is not valid but I applied the same of auto mechanics tips that was given to me if you take your time in the build and do some testing then you will start to spot out what went wrong.
Tips
Check for slack
Shim were it’s needed
Make sure all measurement is equal on both sides of the car
Check for stress on some parts every thing should move freely.
Back to my setup for not stripping gears
Mono engine will help you brace the engine better adjusting your carb with your servo make sure your radio endplay don’t move the engine. Mesh the 2nd gear 1st and the rest is history.
04-02-2007, 09:37 AM
#8032
One thing that might help
One thing I do that may or may not affect the gear stripping is shimming the clutch bell to get it off the shoe. I put an old thrust bearing washer on the shaft before the bearings This makes the clutch bell spin without touching the shoe all the time. I know that RMD has one left after the pics.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
04-02-2007, 09:50 AM
#8033
Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Yep!!
Haven't run sedan for awhile. kind of looking forward to running my Ninja 12.
Who is running the races at CP? I bet CP attendance will pick up now. Hopefully they will have a couple of big races this yesr worth driving the 400 miles to attend.
Are you going to the sedan Nats in Porter this year? You should that place is awesome.
Haven't run sedan for awhile. kind of looking forward to running my Ninja 12.
Who is running the races at CP? I bet CP attendance will pick up now. Hopefully they will have a couple of big races this yesr worth driving the 400 miles to attend.
Are you going to the sedan Nats in Porter this year? You should that place is awesome.
I think Tony will be helping a lot in running club races at CP.
As for the Nats I'll decide on it last minute.
04-02-2007, 11:15 AM
#8034
Originally Posted by Bigbarn
One thing I do that may or may not affect the gear stripping is shimming the clutch bell to get it off the shoe. I put an old thrust bearing washer on the shaft before the bearings This makes the clutch bell spin without touching the shoe all the time. I know that RMD has one left after the pics.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
My endplay is 0.1mm and I use the 5 second face-up spin technique (after tightening the end cap scew) to verify that the clutch bell is not dragging on the shoe. I am currently using shims instead of the thrust bearing washer. Any particular benefit to using the thrust bearing over the shims? Also, the two thrust bearing washers have different internal diameters. Which one are you using?
04-02-2007, 11:26 AM
#8035
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks for the thought Kevin. And yes, I do have an extra thrust bearing washer.
My endplay is 0.1mm and I use the 5 second face-up spin technique (after tightening the end cap scew) to verify that the clutch bell is not dragging on the shoe. I am currently using shims instead of the thrust bearing washer. Any particular benefit to using the thrust bearing over the shims? Also, the two thrust bearing washers have different internal diameters. Which one are you using?
My endplay is 0.1mm and I use the 5 second face-up spin technique (after tightening the end cap scew) to verify that the clutch bell is not dragging on the shoe. I am currently using shims instead of the thrust bearing washer. Any particular benefit to using the thrust bearing over the shims? Also, the two thrust bearing washers have different internal diameters. Which one are you using?
try this setting. 9.3mm from the top of the sg shaft to the clutch nut. use the thinner thrust bearing and if the bell is still catching try using the thicker end. I know for a fact that using too many shims make for inconsistent spacing instead of one thrust washer due to so many thin washers being squished together. I would also try running at least .3 mm end play just because your .1 mm end play settings will cause a lot of heat and affect the life of the clutch bearings.
04-02-2007, 11:26 AM
#8036
Update on my car kicking out problem:
Found some o-rings for my car rear diff cup and jammed them in there. They fit well enough. Tightened everything back up then took it out for some driveway tests.
It seems the kick out is completely gone. Which it makes sense. So basically if your running rear dog bones , you loose a dog bone and the o-rings pop out. You need to find or buy new ones cause without it your car will be useless as youll from time to time be powering only one wheel.
I swear I felt like such a noob with the car wacking into the walls like it was. It was like I couldnt control it worth a damn...its was weird. Seriously embarassing though and its like im not the best driver as is so people were looking at me like. Way to go A.I , stay off the forums and get some wheel time. LOL.
Next month its on and I already went and ordered the 3racing rear universals. They were cheap , like $15 shipped so. They should be fine.
Also I noticed a neat product on rcmart from 3racing, suspension arm shims. They come in colors and are labeled , 1 , 1.5 and 2 mm shims for $6. I thought that was interesting then remember I had a bunch of purple shims still from my pro4 that I used on the r40. Many different sizes. Should help me shim out those arms.
So basically so far im very happy with the car. Even with the broken arm and hinge pin. I think it was just a fluke. The car is ready for next month and I might be swapping out my TZ for a moded JL racing .12. We will see though , im hoping this TZ motor starts acting right. It sometimes shutters in rpm and sometimes doesnt. Oh well , figure that out soon enough.
Found some o-rings for my car rear diff cup and jammed them in there. They fit well enough. Tightened everything back up then took it out for some driveway tests.
It seems the kick out is completely gone. Which it makes sense. So basically if your running rear dog bones , you loose a dog bone and the o-rings pop out. You need to find or buy new ones cause without it your car will be useless as youll from time to time be powering only one wheel.
I swear I felt like such a noob with the car wacking into the walls like it was. It was like I couldnt control it worth a damn...its was weird. Seriously embarassing though and its like im not the best driver as is so people were looking at me like. Way to go A.I , stay off the forums and get some wheel time. LOL.
Next month its on and I already went and ordered the 3racing rear universals. They were cheap , like $15 shipped so. They should be fine.
Also I noticed a neat product on rcmart from 3racing, suspension arm shims. They come in colors and are labeled , 1 , 1.5 and 2 mm shims for $6. I thought that was interesting then remember I had a bunch of purple shims still from my pro4 that I used on the r40. Many different sizes. Should help me shim out those arms.
So basically so far im very happy with the car. Even with the broken arm and hinge pin. I think it was just a fluke. The car is ready for next month and I might be swapping out my TZ for a moded JL racing .12. We will see though , im hoping this TZ motor starts acting right. It sometimes shutters in rpm and sometimes doesnt. Oh well , figure that out soon enough.
Last edited by Artificial-I; 04-03-2007 at 12:37 PM.
04-02-2007, 11:43 AM
#8037
3racing uni's are not good, stick with Mugen. It was discussed a few pages back. I would stay clear away from 3racing drivetrain components. Kawahara and MSR would be the place to look for drivetrain stuff.
04-02-2007, 11:56 AM
#8039
Originally Posted by JetMD
Or, you can buy the 3racing stuff, and spend the money you saved on 2nd gear spurs. All of my 3racing stuff works great btw.
Ive run quite a few 3racing items on my r40 , never had one problem.
But yeah ill have to do a search and hope I can find this discussion on them. If there that bad ill just resell em.
04-02-2007, 12:01 PM
#8040
Originally Posted by Francis M.
try this setting. 9.3mm from the top of the sg shaft to the clutch nut. use the thinner thrust bearing and if the bell is still catching try using the thicker end. I know for a fact that using too many shims make for inconsistent spacing instead of one thrust washer due to so many thin washers being squished together. I would also try running at least .3 mm end play just because your .1 mm end play settings will cause a lot of heat and affect the life of the clutch bearings.
