Mugen MTX-4

Old 10-16-2006, 07:55 PM
  #6466  
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Originally Posted by FF25510
stock vs ti (Mugen)

you can reduce half weight. Also can reduce more on mounting servo , i used alu screws
FF25510 : Do you live in HK ? If yes, I would ask you these questions.

Does City Hobby sell large array of titanium screws ? ... hopefully Mugen Seiki or Team Speedmind ? Does it also sell Mugen Seiki cars and parts ? And Futaba ?

I'm going to HK this week for holiday.

Thanks so much for your information.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:00 PM
  #6467  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Original 4mm Mugen chassis
the kanack chassis,you can use the 1pc motor mount,
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:05 PM
  #6468  
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Originally Posted by FF25510
stock vs ti (Mugen)

you can reduce half weight. Also can reduce more on mounting servo , i used alu screws
but they do cost alot of $ but if you want to save weight this is good i still got 2 from my mtx2 car and all 8 from my mtx3 and they last forever with many hits not like ntc3 that break when you blow on them
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I've been asked a few times about the best tire split. I run 1-1.5mm and I've been told that that is too little. Not to second guess myself on this, but what works best? anybody?
i've found that 2-2.5 works the best with 24t pulley.
with 5 min heats 2mm is enough but for mains i found that after 10 min or so the car will get a bit taily.
depends on the track type and traction conditions though
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by itchy b
i've found that 2-2.5 works the best with 24t pulley.
with 5 min heats 2mm is enough but for mains i found that after 10 min or so the car will get a bit taily.
depends on the track type and traction conditions though
You don't have to copy mine. I usually use 1 set front tires shave to 63 and 2 set rear tires un-shave. 1 set for heat and 1 set for final. For me over 3mm split is better for 45 minutes long race. If the final is 1 hour then I have to drive carefully after 45 minutes.
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:16 AM
  #6471  
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Anybody have an email address for anybody at Mugen USA. I am still trying to get information on the worlds setup..............
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:02 AM
  #6472  
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Originally Posted by asw7576
FF25510 : Do you live in HK ? If yes, I would ask you these questions.

Does City Hobby sell large array of titanium screws ? ... hopefully Mugen Seiki or Team Speedmind ? Does it also sell Mugen Seiki cars and parts ? And Futaba ?

I'm going to HK this week for holiday.

Thanks so much for your information.
Yes, i live in HK.
City Hobby is the agent of Mugen in HK, no problem about the cars n parts.
Team Speedmind is one of his owned brand (also Sato Seiki) Ti screws (on my car) n etc...
Futaba, i don't think so.

enjoy your holiday...
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:05 AM
  #6473  
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
but they do cost alot of $ but if you want to save weight this is good i still got 2 from my mtx2 car and all 8 from my mtx3 and they last forever with many hits not like ntc3 that break when you blow on them
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:25 AM
  #6474  
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Hi

Do you use mugen titanium screws?
How much reduce the weight?

I want to buy K-Factory 2 Speed Hard Light Shaft and Mugen Titanium Screw sets for races.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Anybody have an email address for anybody at Mugen USA. I am still trying to get information on the worlds setup..............
There is [email protected], but they don't always get back to you depending on your question.

Whose setup do you want?? If you want Fukuda's, you can always try contacting Mugen Japan through the contact Web form at mugenseiki.com (English) or email at [email protected]

Mugen Japan has a setup sheet posted for Keisuke Fukuda for some event "SPL2". It's here: http://www.mugenseiki.com/setupsheet...03005_spl2.pdf

If you wait, Mugen Japan will eventually post Fukuda's setup on the "Setting Sheet" page at their site.

Mugen USA isn't really posting MTX-4 setups or anything for 2006 that I could see. Here is the link to their setup sheet page: http://www.mugenracing.com/index_racesetting.html
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:27 AM
  #6476  
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Originally Posted by asw7576
You don't have to copy mine. I usually use 1 set front tires shave to 63 and 2 set rear tires un-shave. 1 set for heat and 1 set for final. For me over 3mm split is better for 45 minutes long race. If the final is 1 hour then I have to drive carefully after 45 minutes.

Yes, for long mains, I usually go up over 3-3.25mm split w/24t pulley. But it really depends on your tire wear measurements that you should be keeping track of during any practice runs and throught your quals. This was my first year to run a point series that was at different tracks. Tire wear was completely different at every track. One track, I was able to use one set for all 4 qualifiers. At another track, I used one set for every qualifier.

Shore ratings are an important factor too. Some go soft to get a good qualifying time, then go harder for the main to make sure they can finish without a tire change. Strategy is key. I like my car to feel it's best during the last 10-13min of a 30min main.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:36 AM
  #6477  
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Originally Posted by mydo84
Hi

Do you use mugen titanium screws?
How much reduce the weight?

I want to buy K-Factory 2 Speed Hard Light Shaft and Mugen Titanium Screw sets for races.
I first weighed the Ti screw kit before putting them on the car. I THINK is was around 41g total. I then attempted to weigh the stock screw by putting them on the scale as they came off. I THINK it was around 70-85g. What screwed me up was that I didn't use all the Ti screws, because I used lighter aluminum screws for the spur gears and diff housings, front servo and a couple other spots.

If you really want to loose weight and don't have to worry about tech at club races, a Lipo Rx pack is the best way to loose weight. I a 1300mah Lipo is half the weight of a 1400 5 cell. And it lasts 2-3x longer.
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I first weighed the Ti screw kit before putting them on the car. I THINK is was around 41g total. I then attempted to weigh the stock screw by putting them on the scale as they came off. I THINK it was around 70-85g. What screwed me up was that I didn't use all the Ti screws, because I used lighter aluminum screws for the spur gears and diff housings, front servo and a couple other spots.

If you really want to loose weight and don't have to worry about tech at club races, a Lipo Rx pack is the best way to loose weight. I a 1300mah Lipo is half the weight of a 1400 5 cell. And it lasts 2-3x longer.
Yeah... Lipo. Titanium screws are expensive way to go on diet. Thanks for reminding me about Lipo
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I first weighed the Ti screw kit before putting them on the car. I THINK is was around 41g total. I then attempted to weigh the stock screw by putting them on the scale as they came off. I THINK it was around 70-85g. What screwed me up was that I didn't use all the Ti screws, because I used lighter aluminum screws for the spur gears and diff housings, front servo and a couple other spots.

If you really want to loose weight and don't have to worry about tech at club races, a Lipo Rx pack is the best way to loose weight. I a 1300mah Lipo is half the weight of a 1400 5 cell. And it lasts 2-3x longer.
Does Lipo damage the receiver because of 7.4V ?I use always Nimh Battery 6.0V my Futaba Receiver.
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I first weighed the Ti screw kit before putting them on the car. I THINK is was around 41g total. I then attempted to weigh the stock screw by putting them on the scale as they came off. I THINK it was around 70-85g. What screwed me up was that I didn't use all the Ti screws, because I used lighter aluminum screws for the spur gears and diff housings, front servo and a couple other spots.

If you really want to loose weight and don't have to worry about tech at club races, a Lipo Rx pack is the best way to loose weight. I a 1300mah Lipo is half the weight of a 1400 5 cell. And it lasts 2-3x longer.
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