Mugen MTX-4
08-23-2006, 05:15 AM
#5896
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
I am frustrated by this car with the constant stripping of 2nd spur gear.
I gave up running the final in my club yesterday because I stripped a gear in the qualifying and could not be bothered replacing it. This car blows the gear every 2 races, what the hell is wrong with it?
I've already done the following but the problem still exist.
Installed a monoblock.
Installed an aluminum upper brace.
Recheck/replaced the engine clutch ball bearings.
Decreased the gap that the clutch bell travels by adding shims inside the clutch bell, compensated with a tighter clutch spring setting.
Always removed first gear and meshed 2nd gear, then install the first gear. Installed 18/24 steel pinions.
Tapered the 2nd gear housing so it doesn't touch the clutch bell.
Shimmed behind the 2 speed shoe housing pin so it doesn't catch the aluminium brace.
What is the root cause of this nagging issue?
Can someone elaborate on the logic behind these suggesions?
-Replaced the inner 2nd gear clutch balls with some bigger ones (S710's ball diff balls)
-Replaced the 2nd gear clutch shoes with the MTX-3 shoes
-How about going to a 4 mm chassis? Is chassis flex the cause?
Thanks in advance for your constructive input.
I gave up running the final in my club yesterday because I stripped a gear in the qualifying and could not be bothered replacing it. This car blows the gear every 2 races, what the hell is wrong with it?
I've already done the following but the problem still exist.
Installed a monoblock.
Installed an aluminum upper brace.
Recheck/replaced the engine clutch ball bearings.
Decreased the gap that the clutch bell travels by adding shims inside the clutch bell, compensated with a tighter clutch spring setting.
Always removed first gear and meshed 2nd gear, then install the first gear. Installed 18/24 steel pinions.
Tapered the 2nd gear housing so it doesn't touch the clutch bell.
Shimmed behind the 2 speed shoe housing pin so it doesn't catch the aluminium brace.
What is the root cause of this nagging issue?
Can someone elaborate on the logic behind these suggesions?
-Replaced the inner 2nd gear clutch balls with some bigger ones (S710's ball diff balls)
-Replaced the 2nd gear clutch shoes with the MTX-3 shoes
-How about going to a 4 mm chassis? Is chassis flex the cause?
Thanks in advance for your constructive input.
SIMILAR SITUATION OCURRED TO A FRIEND OF MINE, WHEN CHECKING FLEX BY HOLDING THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE KIT WITH HIS TWO HANDS, HE FOUND OUT THAT THE SCREW NEXT TO THE CHASIS BRACE THAT HOLDS THE RADIO PLATE WAS NOT TIGHT, IT CAUSED A MINIMAL FLEX BUT VOILA, THAT WAS IT, NO MORE STRIPPING 2ND GEARS SINCE, THIS FLEX STRIPPED 5 GEARS IN TWO MEETINGS.
HOPE IT HELPS
08-23-2006, 05:25 AM
#5897
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
How many of you guys run the 24t pulley?
And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?
Cheers Daniel
And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?
Cheers Daniel
OR USE A FRONT TENSIONER, I USE THE MTX3 ON FRONT AND THE URETHAN BELT WORKS FINE AND NO MORE COMING OFF SINCE THE REAR COULDN'T BE LOWERED MORE.
08-23-2006, 06:39 AM
#5898
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
How many of you guys run the 24t pulley?
And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?
Cheers Daniel
And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?
Cheers Daniel
This one who came separated is the rubber one and is shorter than the one that came 'stock' on the big bag (urethane one).
The lettering on the 'short' belt is "Mugen Seiki Co. Ltd E5SD 22089 031"
The center belt is a little loose and the belt tensioner is tightened all the way down (Just to be sure to put the little nail that guides the tensioner on the CF place facing upper side). Belt didn't skipped nor broke never (in fact I'm scared to death because the center belts has 40 litres of fuel and is looking brand new).
08-23-2006, 09:02 AM
#5899
Originally Posted by Seisick
SIMILAR SITUATION OCURRED TO A FRIEND OF MINE, WHEN CHECKING FLEX BY HOLDING THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE KIT WITH HIS TWO HANDS, HE FOUND OUT THAT THE SCREW NEXT TO THE CHASIS BRACE THAT HOLDS THE RADIO PLATE WAS NOT TIGHT, IT CAUSED A MINIMAL FLEX BUT VOILA, THAT WAS IT, NO MORE STRIPPING 2ND GEARS SINCE, THIS FLEX STRIPPED 5 GEARS IN TWO MEETINGS.
HOPE IT HELPS
HOPE IT HELPS
08-23-2006, 02:47 PM
#5900
Mugen Seki T shirt
SOLD
Hey Nitro Fans!
Are any of you guys interested in a Mugen Seki T shirt?
It's a size Extra large brand new in the bag. It's gray with the Mugen Logo on the back in white letters surrounded by orange and yellow flames. Price is $15 shipped to US
Hey Nitro Fans!
Are any of you guys interested in a Mugen Seki T shirt?
It's a size Extra large brand new in the bag. It's gray with the Mugen Logo on the back in white letters surrounded by orange and yellow flames. Price is $15 shipped to US
Last edited by Deves; 08-25-2006 at 10:43 PM.
08-24-2006, 11:57 AM
#5901
UPDATE!
Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road screw kits are now in stock!
Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road 235-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, lock washers and set screws.
Kits will begin shipping today, August 24th, 2006.
Thanks and best regards,
Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road screw kits are now in stock!
Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road 235-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, lock washers and set screws.
Kits will begin shipping today, August 24th, 2006.
Thanks and best regards,
08-24-2006, 10:52 PM
#5902
Originally Posted by Corse-R
No probs with the 24T here... I don't know which kind of batch your car is, but mine two carried three front center pulleys (23, 24 & 25T) and two center belts (one came separate with a yellow addendum page).
This one who came separated is the rubber one and is shorter than the one that came 'stock' on the big bag (urethane one).
The lettering on the 'short' belt is "Mugen Seiki Co. Ltd E5SD 22089 031"
The center belt is a little loose and the belt tensioner is tightened all the way down (Just to be sure to put the little nail that guides the tensioner on the CF place facing upper side). Belt didn't skipped nor broke never (in fact I'm scared to death because the center belts has 40 litres of fuel and is looking brand new).
This one who came separated is the rubber one and is shorter than the one that came 'stock' on the big bag (urethane one).
The lettering on the 'short' belt is "Mugen Seiki Co. Ltd E5SD 22089 031"
The center belt is a little loose and the belt tensioner is tightened all the way down (Just to be sure to put the little nail that guides the tensioner on the CF place facing upper side). Belt didn't skipped nor broke never (in fact I'm scared to death because the center belts has 40 litres of fuel and is looking brand new).
08-24-2006, 11:53 PM
#5903
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
08-25-2006, 02:52 AM
#5904
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
08-25-2006, 03:45 AM
#5905
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
guys you realy dont wont to do this
08-25-2006, 07:01 AM
#5906
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
08-25-2006, 07:03 AM
#5907
Originally Posted by asw7576
Why not ?
08-25-2006, 10:51 AM
#5908
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Because if all tightened down and you put bigger bearings you're approaching more the teeth of the belt and you can risk to touch themselves as it runs (and of course, do more harm rather than good).
Anyway, I have new toys ...... mrx4r
08-25-2006, 11:55 AM
#5909
I'm sure we have reasonable expertise, brain and experience with RC cars. So we know how big the bearings that fit into mtx4 belt tensioner without harming any other parts. [/QUOTE]
Yep. But the main problem and one thing that needs to be taken into account is the belt stretching and the vibration who is subjected when running at high speed, maybe when at your starter box looks good, but the belt needs their own space to move and vibrate.
Congrats for your new toy, welcome to the 'guys with big guns league'... Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).
Yep. But the main problem and one thing that needs to be taken into account is the belt stretching and the vibration who is subjected when running at high speed, maybe when at your starter box looks good, but the belt needs their own space to move and vibrate.
Originally Posted by asw7576
Anyway, I have new toys ...... mrx4r
Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).
08-25-2006, 12:15 PM
#5910
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Congrats for your new toy, welcome to the 'guys with big guns league'... Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).
Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).