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Old 08-13-2006, 08:56 PM
  #5776  
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Originally Posted by SuPeR
Ever since I moved up to MTX-4 I find it hard to setup the car to suit the track condition
Super, give us all the details. I think other racers can give you better feedback if they knew more of the kind of track your running on: Asphalt, sealed asphalt, concrete, prepped with sugar water, soda..., dusty, tight, open, bumpy, size of track, etc. there's a bunch of things that need to be known to really help you get dialed in. But you also have to concider that driving style may be the cause of some handling issues.

Originally Posted by SuPeR
1. The car is very responsive (good), the car tend to have no grip in the middle of the turn (understeer)
On or off power?

Originally Posted by SuPeR
2. The car is unstable during braking (rear tails to the right or left), I have reduced the brake but then there is not enough brake!
MANINTHEMUGEN is right. First thing is to make the car tweak free. Maybe your track really just needs the right diff setups.

Originally Posted by SuPeR
3. The car takes sometime to settle down be back on the power again!
This could be an engine tuning, clutch, gearing or driving style issue.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:13 PM
  #5777  
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Default umm..

Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Super, give us all the details. I think other racers can give you better feedback if they knew more of the kind of track your running on: Asphalt, sealed asphalt, concrete, prepped with sugar water, soda..., dusty, tight, open, bumpy, size of track, etc. there's a bunch of things that need to be known to really help you get dialed in. But you also have to concider that driving style may be the cause of some handling issues.


On or off power?


MANINTHEMUGEN is right. First thing is to make the car tweak free. Maybe your track really just needs the right diff setups.


This could be an engine tuning, clutch, gearing or driving style issue.
*The track that I am running is asphalt no sugar water or vht (37-40 compound)

*The car is not as stable as my mtx3. takes time to settle down before you backed on the power again, on off power I supposed
*The car is tweaked free, I used 30000 diff oil like other people use
* Could be my driving style is not suitable for mtx-4
I will try to add more shimms at the front like what chookb was saying thats the only thing I haven't tried.
The mid cornering stabilty that I need to really fix as the car tend to understeer after intial turn
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:23 PM
  #5778  
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
take shims out you lower RC add shims you raze RC to get more steering in mid corner take out shims try 1mm or no shims and in the rear lower arms try the high point and add drop in the rear to get forword roll.
I think you are wrong. You raise front roll center without shim.

Upper Arms / Camber Link :
Lower RC = More shims ( MTX4 ) or less angle
Higher RC = Less shims or more angle

Lower Suspension Arms :
Lower RC = Close to chassis ( A block )
Higher RC = Higher from chassis ( C block ).

Low grip track condition or technical track theoretically need C block

High grip track condition or wide open track theoretically need A block.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:28 PM
  #5779  
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Originally Posted by SuPeR
*The track that I am running is asphalt no sugar water or vht (37-40 compound)

*The car is not as stable as my mtx3. takes time to settle down before you backed on the power again, on off power I supposed
*The car is tweaked free, I used 30000 diff oil like other people use
* Could be my driving style is not suitable for mtx-4
I will try to add more shimms at the front like what chookb was saying thats the only thing I haven't tried.
The mid cornering stabilty that I need to really fix as the car tend to understeer after intial turn
Try purple springs ( 1.6 ) or soften the damper oil ( 450 ). The rest follow the basic setup.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:29 PM
  #5780  
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It's interesting you said mtx4 get understeer than previous mtx3. I find the other way around.
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Old 08-13-2006, 10:35 PM
  #5781  
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
where online can i buy these products they are made by M Mod in germany
M-Mod mugen seiki
The receiver box looks solid and heavy
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:31 PM
  #5782  
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I have noticed that your tire diameter plays a big role in the steering of the car. The closer I get to a 3mm split, the more steering I have through the whole corner. It doesn't take it away from the rear of the car either. I have tried from 0 split all the way to a 4mm split.

Any new news on a Prospec or "R" car coming out?
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:38 PM
  #5783  
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
I have noticed that your tire diameter plays a big role in the steering of the car. The closer I get to a 3mm split, the more steering I have through the whole corner. It doesn't take it away from the rear of the car either. I have tried from 0 split all the way to a 4mm split.

Any new news on a Prospec or "R" car coming out?
Yes, agree. I'm using 3mm split. At the end of final, the tires wear at the same rate, and I get more steering too.
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Old 08-14-2006, 01:50 AM
  #5784  
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Default www.rc-raceparts.de

Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
where online can i buy these products they are made by M Mod in germany
M-Mod mugen seiki
Nitro$junkie -You can get those parts from www.rc-raceparts.de
hope that help...
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MTX-4-update.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:19 AM
  #5785  
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Originally Posted by madbeats
Nitro$junkie -You can get those parts from www.rc-raceparts.de
hope that help...
thank you very much
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:41 AM
  #5786  
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
whats the box
almost water proof receiver box
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:29 AM
  #5787  
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I was thinking of changing my rear diff lube from 30K to 50K. Have you found that it helps with steering in the turns?
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Old 08-14-2006, 05:11 AM
  #5788  
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
I was thinking of changing my rear diff lube from 30K to 50K. Have you found that it helps with steering in the turns?
50k more exit steer less entry, 30k more entry less exit.

depending ont he type of track you might or might not notice the difference. the thicker diff oil will be noticed more on low bite conditions, the car will feel tailier on exits.
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Old 08-14-2006, 05:27 AM
  #5789  
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
where online can i buy these products they are made by M Mod in germany
M-Mod mugen seiki

Right Here Click Here...

But The RX Box Is 70euro
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Old 08-14-2006, 06:12 AM
  #5790  
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Originally Posted by SuPeR
*The track that I am running is asphalt no sugar water or vht (37-40 compound)

*The car is not as stable as my mtx3. takes time to settle down before you backed on the power again, on off power I supposed
*The car is tweaked free, I used 30000 diff oil like other people use
* Could be my driving style is not suitable for mtx-4
I will try to add more shimms at the front like what chookb was saying thats the only thing I haven't tried.
The mid cornering stabilty that I need to really fix as the car tend to understeer after intial turn
Try these:
- flat front sway / stock rear sway
- 37s all around / 2.3-3mm split (depending on race length)
- 50k front diff / 10-20k rear diff
(if it's loose go 30k / 10k)
- Caster clips all in back of front arm
- +.5mm shim under front arm
- try 500 wt oil in front first / then maybe purple springs in front / then purples all around
- you may even try standing up all shocks one hole or at least the rears
- 1.5-2mm droop over ride height in front / 2-4mm droop over ride height rear
- ride height 1mm higher in the rear
- B block rear lower arms
- .5-1 degree toe out front
- 2-2.5 degrees toe in rear (to much rear toe will make your car push more on low grip tracks)

I would experiment with these things one at a time. That way you know what's happening with each change. With your track conditions, you want the car to roll more than normal. Hope some of these help, good luck!
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