Mugen MTX-4

Old 07-30-2006, 08:38 PM
  #5611  
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I Finally solved my 2speed stripping issue it was my fault to many O-rings in the outdrive, at first it was Ok but after a while the O-rings really bound everything up including the front suspension, and all this time I thought I was a Hack. Anyway it created so much binding it was stripping the gears, so i thought I would give anyone having these problems another possible solution.
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:01 PM
  #5612  
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Yes, the kit comes with some black plastic spacers to use with the 0 offset rims.
LOL. Thanks, would be nice of the manual to mention this. I will have a hunt around to see if I can find them.
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kriptikracing
wassup all! I just got a mtx-4 and started building her up. I'm almost done...but I got a few questions and I hope you guys understand what I'm asking.

I've completed installing the clutch and pinion gears on the motor. However, I'm not sure if I did it correctly...as far as adjustment. My question is about the .06 ~ 1mm adjustment. Do I turn in the screw until flush with the conical piece then make the shim adjustment? And, when I do get the corrected amount of shims...do I tighten the screw all the way down tight or do I leave it flush with the conical piece? The picture below shows the parts I'm talking about. Thanks for whoevers picture that is...I saw it on a previous post.

The way I did it was made the screw flush with the conical piece...do the pull and push calculation and ended up using 3 shims...then tightened the screw all the way down. This is the first time I'm working on this type of clutch/pinion setup so I'm a little lost. Can someone please confirm I did it correctly or incorrectly?

Come out to next Sunday's race and someone can help you out if you finish the car or not...bring the car
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Old 07-31-2006, 01:59 AM
  #5614  
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Originally Posted by RoyU
Come out to next Sunday's race and someone can help you out if you finish the car or not...bring the car
Wassup RoyU! You in hawaii?

I just figured out what was wrong! The 4 centrifugal clutch shoes was the wrong way. They weren't sitting in the flywheel all the way so that's why there was no play for the clutchbell.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:24 AM
  #5615  
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
LOL. Thanks, would be nice of the manual to mention this. I will have a hunt around to see if I can find them.
Just so you know, they are round not hex shaped.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:25 PM
  #5616  
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Me back to hassle you all again. I got the width, droop and suspension angles set up now. I noticed that I managed to strip out the front lower bumper plate already! Is this just me or do you have to take it really easy when screwing in the screws so the nut does not spin in the plastic hex area?

Also is it normal to have to bend the pipe hanger wire a little to make it fit most pipes? Also it looks like I need to cut down the front foam bumper which is enourmous I assume most of you have to do that?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to get up to speed with the little things different on this kit from my previous R40. I REALLY like the quality of the MTX and the way it goes together.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:26 PM
  #5617  
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Just so you know, they are round not hex shaped.
Thanks for the help, I found em.......
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:29 PM
  #5618  
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Originally Posted by jprevolution
I Finally solved my 2speed stripping issue it was my fault to many O-rings in the outdrive, at first it was Ok but after a while the O-rings really bound everything up including the front suspension, and all this time I thought I was a Hack. Anyway it created so much binding it was stripping the gears, so i thought I would give anyone having these problems another possible solution.
0.3 - 0.5mm shims between the main shaft bearing and two speed clutch. Without the shims, the 2nd gear housing touch the engine brace ( black plastic that joins rear bulkhead to upper deck ).
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Me back to hassle you all again. I got the width, droop and suspension angles set up now. I noticed that I managed to strip out the front lower bumper plate already! Is this just me or do you have to take it really easy when screwing in the screws so the nut does not spin in the plastic hex area?

Also is it normal to have to bend the pipe hanger wire a little to make it fit most pipes? Also it looks like I need to cut down the front foam bumper which is enourmous I assume most of you have to do that?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to get up to speed with the little things different on this kit from my previous R40. I REALLY like the quality of the MTX and the way it goes together.
I cut the plastic flat to bumper ( because the hex locknut is spinning ) and use hex locknut and washers.

In MTX4 yes I have to bend the pipe hanger otherwise the pipe hanger touch the front side pulley. I suggest you measure everything before you make the bend. I prefer the coil close to the holder on the upper deck.

You don't have to cut too much foams on the bumper if you slightly forward the body.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:05 PM
  #5620  
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Me back to hassle you all again. I got the width, droop and suspension angles set up now. I noticed that I managed to strip out the front lower bumper plate already! Is this just me or do you have to take it really easy when screwing in the screws so the nut does not spin in the plastic hex area?
Just grab the nuts with a plier when you're screwing them, don't let the bumper hold the torque.

Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Also is it normal to have to bend the pipe hanger wire a little to make it fit most pipes? Also it looks like I need to cut down the front foam bumper which is enourmous I assume most of you have to do that?
Yep, you need to bend a little the pipe hanger wire, they put straight just to make you sure you can adapt to your pipe config.

This is the exhaust hanger I use... is the Serpent 950 one (really liked, I can adjust how low or how high I put the pipe to clear the ground). This helps when you use bulky pipes (like those new nova pipes).

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=122348

Yep... the foam bumper is enormous (I expect you choosed the small one), the big one will bend down by their own weight and rub against the ground, making some weird things handling wise. You might need to cut it a little if you expect to use bodies like the Stratus 3.1 or others.

You need to cut it at angle to fit perfectly those bodies. Start cutting very little, you want some foam after the lexan to stop and absorb those energy when crashing.
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Old 07-31-2006, 04:32 PM
  #5621  
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Me back to hassle you all again. I got the width, droop and suspension angles set up now. I noticed that I managed to strip out the front lower bumper plate already! Is this just me or do you have to take it really easy when screwing in the screws so the nut does not spin in the plastic hex area?

Also is it normal to have to bend the pipe hanger wire a little to make it fit most pipes? Also it looks like I need to cut down the front foam bumper which is enourmous I assume most of you have to do that?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to get up to speed with the little things different on this kit from my previous R40. I REALLY like the quality of the MTX and the way it goes together.
yes and yes and yes i did the same damm thing but dont use the wide bumper it will just bend down and coz probs on a run.
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Old 07-31-2006, 04:36 PM
  #5622  
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Originally Posted by asw7576
0.3 - 0.5mm shims between the main shaft bearing and two speed clutch. Without the shims, the 2nd gear housing touch the engine brace ( black plastic that joins rear bulkhead to upper deck ).
i dont have this prob but im usen an alm brace.
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Old 08-01-2006, 12:54 AM
  #5623  
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Me back to hassle you all again. I got the width, droop and suspension angles set up now. I noticed that I managed to strip out the front lower bumper plate already! Is this just me or do you have to take it really easy when screwing in the screws so the nut does not spin in the plastic hex area?

Also is it normal to have to bend the pipe hanger wire a little to make it fit most pipes? Also it looks like I need to cut down the front foam bumper which is enourmous I assume most of you have to do that?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to get up to speed with the little things different on this kit from my previous R40. I REALLY like the quality of the MTX and the way it goes together.
Allan, good to see you have come to the mugen family. Mugens cars do go togethaer really nice. Good luck hope you have lots of success with it....Only till i arrive in Brisbane that is.....lol
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:03 AM
  #5624  
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Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
Allan, good to see you have come to the mugen family. Mugens cars do go togethaer really nice. Good luck hope you have lots of success with it....Only till i arrive in Brisbane that is.....lol
LOL good stuff man LOL. I am hoping for a debut this Saturday nite...... When you coming to Brizvegas? We gotta hook up and do some bench racing
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:34 AM
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I am moving there at the end of november so i miss the season at brendale. How did you end up with your Sirio? I know the old importer has caused a bit of trouble. But the new guys have been great so far have had all the parts we needed in stock and actually run out of some stuff which is understandable after the drought. We will definatly have to catch up. Do you still race at brendale very much?
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