Chris West

yes it is normal, well it shouldn't be but the 2 shafts wear out and thats how it becomes black/dark color i redo my diffs every 2 race meetings so yes do replace the oil when it goes black.

Chris

Vinyard

your 2 reasons are good enuff fot using gear diff then ball diff..

from experience, ball diff is not constant and have to adjust all the time (time consuming.. no no) plus you dun exactly know how much is enuff. you got to try and try and try. Plus.. if you lose those balls.. your diff is not working right.

end of the day.. i prefer gear then balls.. untill somebody come up with something good to keep the balls in .. then maybe

asw7576

You do oil change after 2 race meetings ? Wow !!! I haven't change it since new , just top it off hehehe.

Chris West

I also re-oil my shocks every 2 meetings as well (60wt)

MRX_joe21

Check this out http://www.kfactoryracing.com/prolis...01120805-97109

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBBIE C

There's a reason why Mugen uses gear diffs it's for the same reason real cars use them, very efficient.

robbie posted this a while back.... very true

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

kfactory stuff is cool but those are for the RRR...
but then again, it shouldn't be long and they will come up with good stuff for the mtx-4

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Well, I raced my new 4 for the first time this weekend. The car is better than the previous car.

To address the things mentioned.

The flywheel on the MTX3prospec and MTX 4 are the same flywheel. Same flywheel, weights, backing plate, spring, shoe and thrust bearing. Different clutch bell, bearings, and spring retainer.

I do see a rubbing line on the 2 speed housing. I am running the stock pinions with the smaller spurs. There is actually clearance, but my bet is that under chassis flex, the clutch bell does rub the 2 speed housing a little. Also the sway bar seems to lightly rub the housing as well. The rubbing while not wanted is pretty minor. If/when a stiffer chassis or an aluminum brace becomes available this may cure the clutch bell rub. Lengthening the links may raise the sway bar enough to clear, or I will try raising the sway bar slightly somehow.

I also destroyed one of the clutch bell bearings. These bearings are the same ones that are used on the steering. On the MTX3 that is the only place they were used. I don't know how good these bearings are, but I am going to try some other bearings perhaps from Acer or Boca.

The rear shock tower. There are a variety of easy ways to remedy the problem. Skyline makes a 3mm. Many team drivers are simply gluing two towers together. This will change the shock angle slightly. You can leave it alone, space out the bottom of the shock some, or you can cut off the bottom part of the shock tower, and glue it on the inside so the shock mounting doesn't change. You can also cut the body mount area so as not to move the body mount position any farther backwards if you are concerned with that. I also know that Kawahara as well as a few lesser knowns are making a 4mm shock tower. The Kawahara will be available through Mugen eventually.

I used the 2mm Mugen/Fast tires and didn't have rubbing problems. One thing to note. I put universals on the front of the car. In order to get the front track width narrow enough I noticed a slight bind when using the MTX3 front universals. They got close enough to bottoming out in the drive cups. I ended up putting MTX3 rear universals on. I bet with 1mm or zero offset, the MTX3 front universals will be fine.

I also noticed that the plastic ball ends were a little loose. I don't know if this batch is slightly loose or not, but I did have a camber link pop off and there were a few others had that happen as well. We could of course use the pivot balls and ends off the MTX3 but then they are a little harder to install and remove. I will keep you guys updated.

This is a brand new car, and now that the masses have the car we will learn a lot about it. None of these problems are major and I think we have a great new platform.

asw7576

Yeah, I feel that too.....

I think the metal hexagonal ball ( similar in mrx4 ) are slightly thinner. That's why the plastic ball end connectors are easly to click than previous version.

I use H0860 black ball connectors for rear chamber link and steering linkage. They remain intact even after some bad hits.

Bad Mika

Hi Guys !

I had my first full day out with the MTX-4... my ! the stock setting was already just great !

I'd raced on the same track layout as from my previous race with my MTX-3 Prospec... this car has a much better cornering speed and better steering (when you need it!)...

Simply wants to make you hold and gun the throttle everywhere and every corner all the time ! Fantastic ! Enjoy !!!

FF25510

Me Too

ilaybrk

I put my mtx3 setup on my mtx4 and ran the same track and 2to 3 tenths faster than my mtx3 that i had tweeked for two years I love this car but i hate the 5/8 bearings I blew one already I will look for a better grade of bearing.

Joe Chaplow

hi,
the first car that i ever drove was a mtx-3 and that is when i made my screenname. and i like to keep the same name as i build a reputation in the r/c community. plus, i like mugen products.

Joe Chaplow

lol. i like to stick with the same screename. i really think all the cars are very competitive, and i will probably try the mtx-4 sooner or later. thanks for your advice.

Joe Chaplow

wow, that is quite impressive performance from mugen. i would love to see the results of the worlds.